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My truck has developed what I would call torque converter "shudder". Seems to happen when towing or loaded heavy...even on a "stock" power level tune. My question is: Should I just replace the torque converter or do a full rebuild with all the good stuff?

My goal is to be able to run the "tow tune" all the time and not have to worry. I have already installed the BD Protect 68 and have Anarchy tuning that allows 225psi line pressure. My truck only has 47k miles and the PO must have biffed the original trans because the trans that is in the truck has a Mopar rebuilt label on it. My guess is that my current trans only has about 30k miles on it. I have never went into limp mode with my current trans.

Should I just get a billet multi disk converter (along with billet flex plate) or should I just rebuild the trans with all the good stuff (better OD hub, billet input, better clutches, etc.) There is about a $2500 price difference and that is with me doing the work. I have been into a few auto transmissions and have had good success rebuilding them so I'm confident doing this on my current 68rfe. However, I don't want to spend money unnecessarily or do work that doesn't need to be done.

What recommendations do you have?

Thanks in advance, Rod
 

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Just IMHO if you have the time and money do the full build. It would suck pulling the trans, replacing torque converter, then having to pull it again and do more work. I dont mind working on my truck but dont like doing things twice if I dont have to.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have the time and money but I'm a tight wad. That money looks better in my bank account than it does in my transmission lol. I'll see if a few other people chime in.
 

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Check out rev max. That's what I'm running. If I call them n tell them what ur running they will let u know what u need n u won't be disappointed.
I have talked with Revmax and they were very helpful. While I haven't totally decided what to do, I am leaning towards a Revmax build. They were honest and I don't feel they were trying to sell me stuff I don't need.

I think if I'm gonna pull the trans, I'm going the "send it" route. Parts from revmax would include a stage 4 converter, a 550 pre built input clutch hub, billet flex plate, and clutches not included in the input clutch hub. I have already modified my valve body with a BD protect 68 and a sonnax accumulator cover. I'm on the fence if I will need a billet input shaft???

Any opinions on the input shaft?

BTW- my truck is stock other than the VB upgrade and tuning.
 

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Option 1: Replace the converter and beat the balls of it until the OD clutches the bed.
Downside: Possible crap in the converter if a hard part fails
Upside: Less expensive, you can have a new converter installed in 2-3 hours in your driveway (maybe I'm biased since I've dropped my trans far too many times)

Option 2: Full trans build
Downside: Truck is down for a week or 2
Upside: One and done

If all you want to run is the tow tune, I would just do a converter. If you want to run a max effort tune, go for the full build and not look back.
 
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68rfe

I am debating the same exact thing? My TC is locking up at idle, lunging forward. I just dropped the pan last night oil looks brand new no matel no crap eaven the magnet was pretty clean???? shifts fine only the converter?? what should I do? Thanks Doug
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I just finished a full "send it" rebuild on my 68rfe and things went fairly smooth. Parts list is as follows:

Revmax stage 4 converter low stall
Revmax metal spin on filter nipple
Sonnax Smart Tech OD drum
Sonnax billet input shaft
Goerend billet flex plate
Raybestos GPZ frictions and steels
Trans tech seal kit/molded pistons
Mag Hytech deep pan
BD protect 68 (previously installed)

Everything went pretty smooth except I had to take the reaction plate that came with the Sonnax drum to the machine shop so they could grind off .02". That gave me the proper under drive clearance. This is not Sonnax's fault, the GPZ frictions all measured slightly larger than factory specs. Had the frictions measured correctly, I would of had the right clearance. Even the GPZ OD frictions measured larger than factory, but those frictions are not used with the Sonnax drum.

I decided against a sprag upgrade because supposedly new tuning has that problem solved. Also, this build was done kinda as a budget build. Notice how many companies I used for parts? That's cause I was going for "Bang for my buck". Most of the parts were bought off ebay or Amazon with the exception of the Revmax parts. I got the Sonnax drum for $500, billet input was just under $600, rebuild kit with GPZ frictions was $429, Georend flex plate was $300, Revmax parts after core return (including shipping) will be $1150, Mag hytech pan was $280, Fluid and filters ran ~$150, BD protect 68 was $155. Total was just over $3550. Not bad IMHO.

I had a buddy do the quick learn for me. I tried AlfaOBD but it wouldn't do it (even though it's listed). After the relearn process, I'll probably load the tow tune on it and call it good. Maybe the 100hp tune???

I did all this in my shop with out a lift in 3.5 days taking my time. It wasn't too bad of a job.

So far, my truck shifts better now than it ever has. Let me know if you have any questions
 

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That is awesome, when the time comes I'd like to do it this way too. I like the money in my bank account also.

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
 

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@sicumminsde good info thanks! How did you know the friction discs were over size, well I should say what specs were you using to find that out. Did you go off a manual or rebuild instructions? I'm just asking because I might have to do the same some day and while I'm quite sure I can do the rebuild but if something like that isn't mentioned or spec'd somewhere I wouldn't know to check it. Thanks for any info.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
@sicumminsde good info thanks! How did you know the friction discs were over size, well I should say what specs were you using to find that out. Did you go off a manual or rebuild instructions? I'm just asking because I might have to do the same some day and while I'm quite sure I can do the rebuild but if something like that isn't mentioned or spec'd somewhere I wouldn't know to check it. Thanks for any info.
Go off the ATSG manual to check clearance and friction thickness. Air check all the clutch packs to check for function and clearance....without the right tools you have to get inventive using a dial indicator.
 

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Go off the ATSG manual to check clearance and friction thickness. Air check all the clutch packs to check for function and clearance....without the right tools you have to get inventive using a dial indicator.
Ok...thanks! I will do some more research before I would decide to take this on. Manual always helps. Videos on you tube make it look so easy just slapping it altogether. But your post proves it isn't that simple I guess unless your just doing a basic stock rebuild kit.
 
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