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Mishimoto used to make a 2-row radiator but I believe they use a 3-row design now. I wonder what the capacity of the 3-row is compared to the alternatives? I bought an eBay 4-row unit designed for a 2nd gen Ram at one point but it interfered with my BD intercooler. I don't know if it would have interfered with the stock intercooler.

Did a quick search and found this interesting paper: https://theicct.org/sites/default/files/publications/HDV_engine-efficiency-eval_WVU-rpt_oct2014.pdf

They look at two diesel engines, and the smaller is a 6.7 "medium duty" unit. According to their study, 29.2% of its fuel energy was converted to usable horsepower and 10% was rejected to the cooling circuit. I don't know which engine they were looking at specifically (I might be inclined to guess) and I'm betting that it is more efficient than our old 12V engines, but it's interesting information regardless. Let's say it's representative. That would mean that for our truck the crankshaft HP is 29.2/10 of the power rejected to the cooling circuit. Now assume 550hp wheel hp is approx 690 (=550/0.8) crank hp. That would mean heat rejected to the cooling circuit & radiator is 236hp (=690*10/29.2) which is 176kW which is 600500 BTU/hr. That's a LOT of heat. I like the idea of adding a secondary heat rejection circuit for the oil system but even a stout secondary cooler will probably only reject a relatively small fraction of the 60500 BTU/hr total heat rejection. I used one of the really nice Derale coolers for my transmission and my recollection is that it rejects something like 25hp peak (and that was spotty information, didn't list inlet temperature, airflow, ambient temperature, etc).
 

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Gee whiz
And I've already bought the Mishimoto!
Now, should I sell it on eBay and get the Griffin or perhaps the Icebox? That's the question. I do know the Mishimoto increases boiling point with a higher psi cap.
I wonder what the cap psi is on the Griffin and the Icebox?
Additional gallon sure is significant increased cooling capacity!
The Griffin that Gator1 and I are talking about is on 3rd gens. I haven't been able to find one for 2nd gens.
 

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I am liking it. I need to get out and tow with it but already I can tell that it cools way better than stock.
Yep it's a beast. I spent the whole day driving with my fans off, even on a 40 mile long gradual grade, and 6 miles of very steep grade it handled it.
 

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Gee whiz
And I've already bought the Mishimoto!
Now, should I sell it on eBay and get the Griffin or perhaps the Icebox? That's the question. I do know the Mishimoto increases boiling point with a higher psi cap.
I wonder what the cap psi is on the Griffin and the Icebox?
Additional gallon sure is significant increased cooling capacity!
The Griffin that Gator1 and I are talking about is on 3rd gens. I haven't been able to find one for 2nd gens.
All this time you were talking about a radiator for 3rd gens? So Griffin does not have one for the 2nd gens?

Guess Icebox is the way to go then..
 

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I see Mish makes one but I'm not sure how much of a cooling capacity upgrade it is so much as a reliability upgrade.
My Griffin in my 3rd gen is most definitely a cooling capacity upgrade but I don't see one for 2nd gens.
From my first post.
 

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The point I was trying to make is that pulling with 550-600 hp is difficult because of cooling issues. So pulling a 5 mile long pass at 8% at 70mph with a GVW of 20k+ is hard on these older 12v's


You might think about tranny cooling if you push that hard. Rear end temps are probably climbing too.
 

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Yes, there are a few good custom fabricators, Ron Davis is another good one that can hook you up. There are also ways to improve the OEM radiator performance. When using an electric pump you can bypass the block and send it back to the radiator for an extra trip before it goes to the block.
 

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I love this thread.

Attached is my setup for the oil cooler. I also put a filter relocate on as I could not get the filter on with my A/C in the way.

I am still cleaning up the wiring. I have a 630 cfm cooler mounted behind my bumper. Toggle switch activated. Still cleaning up the rough plastic edges so dont judge. LOL

Here are the parts needed to do the job. This cooler fits perfect in the center below the intercooler behind the front bumper. Got both from Summit

Derale Hyper-Cool Remote Fluid Coolers with Fan Kits 15845

Perma-Cool Sandwich Oil Adapters 1836

Oil filter relocate is the PacBrake kit for 12v's
 

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Great looking setup. Are you planning to put some protection in for those oil lines running to and from the cooler? Just to keep road debris, etc from taking one of them out.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Updates on Predator fuel Pump

Got the PDD modded cam lobe pump off and the PDD crank driven pump on. Fuel lines run. Parker hose 836-8. The dash 8 means half inch. The dashes stand for sixteenths.
So, 1/2 supply from the Beans sump directly to the fuel pump. Then from the pump to a 100 mesh strainer then to the water separator then to the dual Cats.
Those will be installed next. Right now the Sump is in and the pump is primed and the return is plumbed.
Fuel lines from the pump run through RaceFlux sleeving with silicone outer and fiberglass inner. Under the truck they run through expandable high abrasion sleeving with SS wire/ poly mesh. Dual lines are coupled with Aluminum yokes. All possibility of vibration abrasion points are addressed with sleeving with tubing and coupling/ anchoring with ties.
 

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I'm totally not nit picking, it's been an awesome build so far but that push-lock hose is actually weaken by putting hose clamps on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
I'm totally not nit picking, it's been an awesome build so far but that push-lock hose is actually weaken by putting hose clamps on it.
Your observation is noted, and thank you.

Parker 836 is only rated for Diesel with Parkrimp HY series crimps. I know everyone gets by without anything and that the plier closed clamps and hose clamps aren't crimps but it just makes me sleep better at night.

Thanks for taking the time and for offering advice, sir.
 

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Its looking great! Smart addressing the vibration points. I just had to replace my dual feed lines after about 5000 miles cause I missed a spot they were rubbing somthing. Excellent work. I think I have about $25-30k into my build, your going to be pretty darn close once you get the tranny installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Thanks.

Trans is in. It's PDD 850 with triple disk, billet output and intermediate. Low stall. Lockup in 2nd. Deep pan.

I'm redoing the interior, adding those big air compressors I showed earlier, new train horn, exhaust brake, everything new that I get close to mostly. I'm probably at 40k but can't keep track or the wife will know.
 

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Here are my lines from the oil cooler. They dont hang down very low. I am not concerned with anything hitting them
 

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Discussion Starter #99
I like the position of your cooler.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Fuel filter system

I decided to change course and run to the pump directly from the Sump to avoid any starvation or cavitation issues.
From the pump I go to:
1. Fuel cut off solenoid. It's made in the USA and made to cut fuel in Marine applications. Large bore. It's switch will run to secret place to add additional layer of theft protection. In event of failure I can easily gut it and keep running while replacement parts ordered.
2. 100 micron mesh pre filter
3. Baldwin water separator
4. Dual CAT 2 micron filters.
5. Pressure sensor TEE
6. Dual feed injection pump lines.

All lines are Parker 836 and are 1/2"
 

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