keep the secondary small! hx35, 341, 351, s300g will keep you in boost all the time. Larger secondarys will lag when rpms get low causing smoke/egt issues.
Ideally, an s300g/s472b would be the best investment, but you could use your hx35 to keep costs down, just understand the hx35 will limit top-end.
Also- most will agree 450hp is the max you can safely tow with. Above that, even if you keep egts down, the cooling system and and driveline will be taxed heavily and any weak spots will put you on the side of the road.
Not to say you cant HAVE 900hp and still tow, just dont try to USE all of it when towing or you risk a bad day.
good luck. the cooling system will not support it.But oh well I guess back on topic here I am all for turning down fuel boxes and such to drop power to tow but eventually would like to build this truck to a point where I can tow with most if not all of 600hp mainly since most seem to say it can't be done
If I'm not mistaken I should have an hy35 not the hx? I would go look at tag on the turbo but ironically I blew out my rear end Thursday night pulling a 20ft gooseneck horse trailer. But looks like the seal on the front of my diff was leaking and I never saw a wet spot. But oh well I guess back on topic here I am all for turning down fuel boxes and such to drop power to tow but eventually would like to build this truck to a point where I can tow with most if not all of 600hp mainly since most seem to say it can't be done
correct. 02 auto = hy.good luck. the cooling system will not support it.
I'm quite alright with fast, expensive, and reliable. I've seen people try to build stuff, had a few experiences myself too. Always ends up being more expensive in the long run. I'm more interested in what all has to be done to reach the goal. Experiences at what breaks at enhanced power levels. I've only added MAYBE 60hp and ran into this little issue which I feel wasn't strictly caused by the programmer and such because it was an old seal that started it all. For instance the bigger yokes that's a great suggestion but I was hoping for more info maybe a suggested brand or size or even a place where I could go find out more on the topic and do the research myself? I'm not the most familiar with those components and what brands to look at and such. But I do believe in over engineering things as well to have the added strength and "insurance" I guess you could say.These trucks can be made to haul pretty heavy and be quite dependable, but it has been said often that you can have: fast, cheap, reliable, but never all 3 together.
Say the truck/engine were designed to handle 250hp/500lbft work 24hrs a day. Assume there is a 15% safety margin when the truck was new. most of the margin will dissipate over time as the truck ages.
Now double the work load. @ 500hp and 1000 ftlbs, the stock systems are maxed out and sketchy.
You want to go beyond even that. I have already done this. I have done a LOT of repairs and upgrades to accommodate the power I have and use it fairly comfortably.
I still dont try to haul 30k up a 5 mile 8* grade with the pedal on the mat. Its just not necessary.
Our trucks are simply not designed to out pull most semi trucks.
