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Looks like they lopped the rear part of the roof off a Travelall.
Very close to it, but not quite. They actually use a different body tub (frame is Travelall standard). Since there is no need to fold and tumble the rear seat to make a flat floor the front floor pan is the same as a Travelette (crew cab pickup). The roof and rear window are one piece crew cab parts while in the bed the rear of the cab attaches using sealant to the sides to allow some flex. The bed floor is Travelall standard as are the quarter panels. Inside bed is Travelall standard as well with a spare tire storage area inside the quarter and a cover to go over it. The Line Setting Ticket is set as a Travelall with one of the option lines being "5th Wheel / Gooseneck trailer prep package (Wagonmaster)." Tailgate is a Travelall tailgate without the opening for the roll up window. They were only built for 2 years.
 

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I'm guessing that those could be the same drivers that I frequently see coming back from the lake with crushed C-pillars. Or that would drive into store fronts, which seems popular, too.

Sometimes you just have to stop what you're doing, in time.
Well I done my part in trying to educate readers in this thread. They disregard and destroy their stuff if they choose.

You can led a horse to water but you can't make them drink. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #144
So I got my B&W turnover installed Saturday.



I feel this was a bit harder than some make it out to be. The hardest parts were getting the hitch installed tight to the frame. One side would go tight enough to get the bolts started, but I couldn't get the other side tight. I ended up using a bottle jack wedged between the rear dif and the hitch to force it up. It's a tight fit. Also, getting the bolts to 150 ft lbs was damn near impossible laying on my back. I needed a breaker bar on my torque wrench to get enough leverage. Luckily one of my workers showed up and just in time. 2 people definitely made this an easier job than trying to do it by myself.

My wiring harness isn't due in until today.

I am having second thoughts on the goosebox having enough clearance but we will see I guess. I also am not sure how much bed space I will end up with since that goosebox hangs pretty low and needs quite a bit of room in the bed when turning. Granted with a toy hauler I am not sure if I really need that much bed space. Even with my TT I didn't carry that much stuff in the bed, maybe my grill and some wood for the fire and a ladder...but that should all still fit in the bed or overflow into the garage.

Airbags are on.
Gooseball is on.
Just need to get the trailer hitch and wire up the electric.
And....the trailer. Should be about 5 more weeks.
 

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I feel this was a bit harder than some make it out to be. The hardest parts were getting the hitch installed tight to the frame. One side would go tight enough to get the bolts started, but I couldn't get the other side tight. I ended up using a bottle jack wedged between the rear dif and the hitch to force it up. It's a tight fit.
Also, getting the bolts to 150 ft lbs was damn near impossible laying on my back.
I've found that the easiest way is to put a 2x4 (or something) across the bed and lift the hitch up in place with a ratchet strap.

Access with a torque wrench is tricky, and I've ended up using "through sockets" and other somewhat unusual tools to get to all the fasteners.
 

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Discussion Starter #146
I've found that the easiest way is to put a 2x4 (or something) across the bed and lift the hitch up in place with a ratchet strap.

Access with a torque wrench is tricky, and I've ended up using "through sockets" and other somewhat unusual tools to get to all the fasteners.
I had a ratchet strap with a 2x4 straddling the bed rails so it didn't fall and break my face. I could not get enough force to pull it all the way through.

I did this at my work, with limited tools. I think some wobble extensions with short 24mm would had helped a lot. The problem is the torque wrench+ sockets are heavy enough that it's hard to hold them against gravity while pulling with all your might to get to 150lbs lol.
 

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I had a ratchet strap with a 2x4 straddling the bed rails so it didn't fall and break my face. I could not get enough force to pull it all the way through.

I did this at my work, with limited tools. I think some wobble extensions with short 24mm would had helped a lot. The problem is the torque wrench+ sockets are heavy enough that it's hard to hold them against gravity while pulling with all your might to get to 150lbs lol.


I was sitting on my with legs under diff and had no issue using torque wrench. Just the passenger side 2 were little tough had to pull
Exhaust toward me to get it on.

I locked the pin through a piece of 1/2” chain and pushed it up through the hole and had my wife grab it.
 

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I did this at my work, with limited tools. I think some wobble extensions with short 24mm would had helped a lot. The problem is the torque wrench+ sockets are heavy enough that it's hard to hold them against gravity while pulling with all your might to get to 150lbs lol.
Now I remember; the tricky installation was on a '10, which had cross bars holding the much larger center piece. In contrast, the '14-up version is a piece of cake.

By far the easiest was an '18 3500...because the bed was off of it, so I could plop the bolts in from the top.
 

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You all seem like some knowledgeable people when it comes to towing with a 5th wheel. I am purchasing a '16 2500 megacab and I see that flat areas in the bed for everything for a 5th wheel or center ball but nothing is cut out.

I am assuming the support under the bed is there, as it appears to be. Do I have to locate and drill the bed to put a 5th wheel hitch or ball?
 

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You all seem like some knowledgeable people when it comes to towing with a 5th wheel. I am purchasing a '16 2500 megacab and I see that flat areas in the bed for everything for a 5th wheel or center ball but nothing is cut out.

I am assuming the support under the bed is there, as it appears to be. Do I have to locate and drill the bed to put a 5th wheel hitch or ball?
You can either buy a hitch which should come with a template or other instructions on drilling the bed or you can take the truck to a trailer/hitch dealer to have one installed.
 

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I am purchasing a '16 2500 megacab and I see that flat areas in the bed for everything for a 5th wheel or center ball but nothing is cut out.

I am assuming the support under the bed is there, as it appears to be. Do I have to locate and drill the bed to put a 5th wheel hitch or ball?
Yes, you need to decide on what hitch to get (B&W or OE) and drill holes accordingly.
Nothing to it, really. But do paint/undercoat/bedline, whatever, after you exposed bare metal.
 

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You can either buy a hitch which should come with a template or other instructions on drilling the bed or you can take the truck to a trailer/hitch dealer to have one installed.
I should've given my newb disclaimer as I know very little about 5th wheel setup.

Thanks. I'm a do it yourself kind of guy, seems pretty simple.

You never know when the dealer will have a first timer learn on your rig so I prefer to handle it on my own if i can.
 

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Yes, you need to decide on what hitch to get (B&W or OE) and drill holes accordingly.
Nothing to it, really. But do paint/undercoat/bedline, whatever, after you exposed bare metal.
Yes! I will be painting and rust proofing the frame and all so I will drill it before I do so, so I can also coat those holes.
Truck was from Ontario so I want to catch and stop any rust now. At least it only has 34k miles so rust is pretty normal right now.

Haven't seen anyone mention the Demco autosliders in this thread. opinions?
 

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I should've given my newb disclaimer as I know very little about 5th wheel setup.

Thanks. I'm a do it yourself kind of guy, seems pretty simple.

You never know when the dealer will have a first timer learn on your rig so I prefer to handle it on my own if i can.
But in this case you are the first timer and the dealer in question will be doing them all the time.
 

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But in this case you are the first timer and the dealer in question will be doing them all the time.
Except when the dealer guy is doing it for the first time, as Michael pointed out could happen.

And even if the dealer has done it 500 times, do they use a torque wrench, paint bare metal, etc.?
 

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But in this case you are the first timer and the dealer in question will be doing them all the time.
I hear you bud.
I'm pretty meticulous and hate having people work on my stuff. I've seen people screw up simple things so unless I can't wrap my head around it, I will research it and do it myself.
I don't mind paying people to do good work but these days you end up paying good money to someone who has a kid on their first day do it. Besides it doesn't seem all that hard.
 

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I hear you bud.

I'm pretty meticulous and hate having people work on my stuff. I've seen people screw up simple things so unless I can't wrap my head around it, I will research it and do it myself.

I don't mind paying people to do good work but these days you end up paying good money to someone who has a kid on their first day do it. Besides it doesn't seem all that hard.


It’s easy. B&w instructions work well and videos are everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #158
I was sitting on my with legs under diff and had no issue using torque wrench. Just the passenger side 2 were little tough had to pull
Exhaust toward me to get it on.

I locked the pin through a piece of 1/2” chain and pushed it up through the hole and had my wife grab it.
You must be stronger than me or have a longer torque wrench :(

You all seem like some knowledgeable people when it comes to towing with a 5th wheel. I am purchasing a '16 2500 megacab and I see that flat areas in the bed for everything for a 5th wheel or center ball but nothing is cut out.

I am assuming the support under the bed is there, as it appears to be. Do I have to locate and drill the bed to put a 5th wheel hitch or ball?
You need to figure out which hitch you are using first. Either the mopar puck system hitch, or gooseball hitch.

2 dealers and a hitch shop by me would not do the mopar puck install. The RV dealer wanted to install rails on my bed, I said no way.
 

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Discussion Starter #159


Just got back from towing over 2K miles with the goosebox hitch. It was fantastic. Super easy to hookup and unhook. The ride was very compliant. I don't know how a standard kingpin tows, but I can't imagine it being any smoother. I watched some of the video from the rough roads and the camper was bobbing a little and the truck was fairly flat.

I did not buy an offset ball and I did not crush my shortbed cab. For me to use the offset ball I think I would have to change my hitch height or it would be too nose high.

The setup towed @ 70 mph like it wasn't back there. Coming from an 8K lb bumper pull, I was impressed that 16K lbs could tow so easy.

My only complaint is the pivot point sits so low in the bed that I am not sure how much stuff I can load without the hitch hitting it while driving. I will have to do so more messing around when the weather is warm to see if maybe I need to make a little box out that drops into my boards for a little more bed storage. The benefit of the king pin is you can pile stuff all around the hitch and now you are pretty safe from clearance. However, having a toy hauler, I was able to put my spare tires/grill, etc in the camper anyways.

 

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I’m not sure if I posted here or not but for those wanting to consider a hitch, I just got rid of my heavy, bulky, Pullright 2900 Slider and went with the Anderson Ultimate. They make 2 versions. One is the Model #3200 rail mount version, which I chose because I already had the rails, and the Model 3220 5th wheel prep version. Model 3200 is rated to tow 20,000 lbs. Model 3220 is rated at 24,000 lbs.

My 3200 Model hitch only weighs 40 lbs. Easily removed and carried with one hand. This hitch, by design, offsets the ball giving lots of clearance for towing with our short box trucks. The hitch mount is also reversible front to back for more clearance. Set up is a cinch! Towing is amazing. The ball height is also adjustable for side rail clearance needs. Because of reduced moving parts, the connection reduces chucking and noise. Price is VERY reasonable as well.

This hitch was recommended to me by @Ltngdrvr who tows 5th wheels for a living.
I really like this set-up as well!

Here’s a link for those that may be interested in this version.
https://andersenhitches.com/Products/3200--ultimate-5th-wheel-connection-rail-version.aspx
 

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