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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am building a 13 ram 5500 single rear pickup. I have been acquring all the parts for months and for the last three days, started putting on some of the parts. I have a long ways to go, but here is what the truck looked like stock at the dealer lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
here are some pics with the rickson wheels and 285/70/19.5 toyo M608Z tires. May 17th and snow. ???
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
So I am planning on a full air suspension from Kelderman and I ordered an extreme compressor kit from extreme products. The compressor mounts on the motor and is belt driven. THe compressor is capable of 8+ CFM at 90 psi! I had a kilby compressor on my last two trucks, but they dont make a kit for the 6.7L. George is a great person to deal with. If anyone has any questions, send me a PM and I can give you more info.

I didnt take any photos of just the kit, but it is a sanden compressor that comes with a different mount on the front of the motor. On our trucks, the power steering pump is way down on the bottom of the motor on the drivers side. THis kit puts the sanden down there and raises the power steering pump up to the top on the drivers side. It comes with all hardware, bracket, belts, and compressor. The instructions are ok, but after a little looking around, a average dude can figure it out.

The top coolant line comes off and have to drain enough anti freeze to get it off the top,fan and shroud come out, belt, and instructions go from there. This takes alot of time, but anyone can do it. I rate this job as at least a six pack. I put on a 3 gallon tank and mounted that under the passenger side door to the frame.

Here are some pics of the compressor going in. I apologize for not getting step by step, once plugging away i forget to take photos.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Here are some more. Hope they are in order.

There are some differences on the 2013's compared to the other 4th gens. The power steering pump on the 13 does not have a resevoir built on to the pump. The 12's and older had them attached. THe instructions show this. However, on my truck there is a seperate resevoir just to the outside or right of the radiator (looking from the front back towards the motor). I thought this might cause some problems with the fluid not flowing into the pump as they are real close to level, but the power steering pump sucked in the new atf+4 and it works fine. There are a few more power steering hoses to deal with that the normal system didnt have, but I routed everything around and have clearance. The power steering line coming from the gear box to the resevoir had to be bent towards the tire, but it worked out.

The auto trans was another non issue that the 12's and older have. The tranny lines come out on the passenger side now. According to the instructions, you need to cut and put on new hoses but that is not true on the 13. That took alot of time to figure out on the kit without anyone doing this kit before. Even the manufacturer has not done a 13. I was the R&D guy. So that right there saves quite a bit of time.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
and here is the power stering pump with the hose I had to make to flow from the bottom of the resevoir, and the finished product. The red wire was ran to the pressure switch and that was ran to my #1 aux upfitter switch.

That weight ticket is what the truck weighed, full tank of fuel, with everything stock including the aluminum wheels.

The other photo is of the massive front axle. I just had to take a photo with the tire off.

BTW, with 4 more gallons used (approx), the truck weighed in at 8860 lbs with the new tires and wheels. The hub on the rim is 1/2" plate for the mounting and the tire and wheel are at least 180 lbs or more a piece.
 

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Interested in the results of the Kelderman kit; subscribed.

Nice truck so far!
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Yesterday I decided to tackle (and see if it would work) center counsole shift. I ordered the 6 parts that this site has listed and gave it a shot.

The instructions that I printed off were pretty good. This kit was not a direct bolt in compared to people that have the 68rfe. The aisin has a different mount on the transmission. That mount means everything. SO I modified it.

ALso, the cable attaches to the lever the same, but where the cable mounts so the rod can shift has to be modified. Where it normally would slide into the holder, it has to be allowed to move back approx 1". There is another slider that you push in. It stuck pretty hard, but if you pulled on it, it could come out. SO i ducked taped around it and felt good.

The other mod is you have to tap with a hammer or somehow bend the existing tranny mount on the aisin to the front of the tranny about 3/4". This allows the lever up in the cab to work properly and have the selector in the correct spot. I worked on this for about 3 hours and was getting frustrated as it wasnt working. After a time out, I got it close. I had to put it all back together and call it good. Tomorrow I will take the mount off and try to move it about 1/4" more towards the front and see if it is better. I will take pictures of that. Problem is, you bend it forward and the cable and mount is not at 90 degrees. So I will take off and gain a little more length and straighten it out better.

This install is a 2 beer rating.

So this can be done, but you dont need the tranny mount, and the lever that mounts on the tranny as they are different. The cover for the steering wheel, shift cable, wiring, and the shifter is what is required on these trucks equipped with aisin tranny.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Tomorrow, I plan on tackling the 40 gallon replacement fuel tank from transfer flow. I hope to get it done in one night, but I doubt it. I am still waiting for the kelderman kit to get shipped up here (on a boat between seattle and anchorage) and my winch bumper and rear bumper from blue lake off road in GA.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Don't want to come across as stupid, but......Why buy a 5500 and make it a single wheel??:confused013:
Because in alaska, 6 months out of the year snow is on the road. And I am not talking about like wisconsin or minnesota. They have snow too. WHat I am talking is you wont see blacktop. Salt is not used up here and snow just keeps packing and turning into ice, and it rarely gets above 20 so it doesnt really melt like back in the midwest or colder states. ALso, up at our cabin, it can and snow 3' in two days and this happens regularly. We take the sleds up there to go riding and on sunday afternoon, dig out my old 2007 dodge dually. Then, spend another hour trying to get it and the enclosed trailer out of the parking lot. I was sick of getting stuck all the time and the dually didnt help. SO make it a single rear wheel.

Also, I pull heavy quite a bit. 25,000lbs + A 3500 SRW would not be rated for what I wanted. I could either get another dually and have the same problems, or build a 5500, put on some H rated tires that are rated for 6400 lbs a piece and have the best of both worlds.
 

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I have a simple question -- If I wanted to buy a 5500 C&C and just have a dually bed added and make no other mods, is that feasible?

Also -- For the front fender flares on the C&C trucks -- do they make a rear that fit too? I doubt it because they're all dually's but I thought I'd ask. Reason why is I'm looking at some Vision 81 19.5 wheels (I know they're cheap but I am considering them) and they stick out more and I thought maybe the flares might make sense.

-Guzzler
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have a simple question -- If I wanted to buy a 5500 C&C and just have a dually bed added and make no other mods, is that feasible?

Also -- For the front fender flares on the C&C trucks -- do they make a rear that fit too? I doubt it because they're all dually's but I thought I'd ask. Reason why is I'm looking at some Vision 81 19.5 wheels (I know they're cheap but I am considering them) and they stick out more and I thought maybe the flares might make sense.

-Guzzler
There are plenty of the dually's out there. Well, not a bunch, but some. You will have to get a new fuel tank and have a bed extended unless you want a gap.

I have a set of stampede fender flares that look close to the front flares. They stick out 2.5", and after measuring the stance on the rear, the tires will stick out past the flare .5" I have done my homework. Believe me.

For a dually application, I know I have seen some dodges come from the factory with the fender flare for the rear and they look awesome. That is what I would have put on if I stayed with the wider hips.
 

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There are plenty of the dually's out there. Well, not a bunch, but some. You will have to get a new fuel tank and have a bed extended unless you want a gap.

I have a set of stampede fender flares that look close to the front flares. They stick out 2.5", and after measuring the stance on the rear, the tires will stick out past the flare .5" I have done my homework. Believe me.

For a dually application, I know I have seen some dodges come from the factory with the fender flare for the rear and they look awesome. That is what I would have put on if I stayed with the wider hips.
I'm sure you have for you! I was only asking for ME if I went with wheels that stick out. I haven't seen anyone put the C&C flares on their SRW. :)

Do you have the model / part number(s) for the stampede fender flares you're going with?

TIA,

-Guzzler
 

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Discussion Starter #17
8523-2R. The 2 R means just the rear. And i wasnt meaning to say that I dont my homework in a bad way. Just saying I have spent many hours trying to find the right fitment. These were the closest I could find.
 

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8523-2R. The 2 R means just the rear. And i wasnt meaning to say that I dont my homework in a bad way. Just saying I have spent many hours trying to find the right fitment. These were the closest I could find.
Thanks!!! :)

I looked up those Stampede 8523's. Nice. I found the set at autoanything for around $311.

-Guzzler
 
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