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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I know a couple of ex Mopar techs now self employed. They drain the oil for 15 minutes, fill the new filter and add the balance of the three gallons in there. My reads over too as do most but that's the spec.
I know a couple of techs at the local shop... they open up the fumoto valve then apply air pressure to the dipstick tube to force all the oil out faster (JK) to get me out faster :D they then charge me $30 bux for the fun of doing it.,

Seriously, they charge $27~28 to swap it & filter then ask a small add on for the big filter (I forget how much).
 

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I just got a quote of $1950 for a timing belt/spark plug service on an '05 Honda Pilot and $1200 for adjusting the valve lash.It's an '05 w/210K. Purrs like a kitten but it's not happening. When it blows I'll donate it. That's dealer price with Aisin parts. Local reputable independent shop can only beat it by $200.
 

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Yeah,I had the trans and diff serviced and an oil change. It's been a great car but it's time to get a new one. I'm 6'4" and cars aren't getting any easier to get into. The companies are trying to squeeze another 1 mpg by increasing windshield rake and then there's the irritating stop start nonsense. Also we need 30 mpg. We need to get out of the 18 mpg range.
 

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Really easy to do the timing belt on the honda, Single overhead cams if it is a 3.5. My Acura probably has the same engine.
 

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Sharing the insanity :LOL: of doing the maintenance the way I do every 50k, plus was curious on the cost of it all. I will detail the service, cost of the fluid and who did the work (some of it I dont do)

  • Oil Change:
    • Oil: Royal Purple 15w-40
    • Quantity: 14 quarts
    • Filter #1: Napa Gold
    • Cost:
    • Filter #2: Amsoil BK110
    • Cost:
    • Addon: Stiction Eliminator
    • Cost:
Notes:​


  • Fuel Filter:
    • Filter #1: Baldwin 7977
    • Cost:
    • Filter #2: Donaldson P51355 (?) (Swapped every 25k)
    • Cost:
Notes:​


  • Transmission
    • Oil: Royal Purple 75w-90
    • Quantity: 3 Quarts
    • Cost:
    • Oil: Royal Purple Synchromax
    • Quantity: 3 quarts
    • Cost:
    • Oil: Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer
    • Quantity: 1 quart
    • Cost:
Notes:​

  • Transfer Case
    • Oil: Royal Purple SynchroMax
    • Qty: 2 quarts
    • Cost:
Notes:​

  • Front Differential
    • Oil: Royal Purple 75w-90
    • Quantity: 3 quarts
    • Cost:
Notes:​

  • Rear Differential
    • Oil: Royal Purple 75w-90
    • Quantity: 4 Quarts
    • Cost:
Notes:​

  • Power Steering
    • Oil: Royal Purple ATF Max
    • Quantity: 2 Quarts
    • Cost:
Notes:​

  • Brake Flush (Les Schwab)
    • Cost:
Notes​

Overkill? Maybe... Been doing this since around 100k but not all aligned to the 50k interval (250k, 300k, 350k etc) on the odometer until 250k. I allows me to not have to think about when a service is due and have peace of mind that the truck needs nothing until that next interval of either 10k (oil & fuel) 25k (3 um filter) or 50k (all of it)

Adding Fluid Capacities

View attachment 920316
Good morning Steve I was wondering what the correct part number was for that Donaldson fuel filter that you’re running And do you use the water separator on the Donaldson fuel filter ? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Good morning Steve I was wondering what the correct part number was for that Donaldson fuel filter that you’re running And do you use the water separator on the Donaldson fuel filter ? Thanks
Hi dan, its this kit with the donaldson P551313 fuel filter. i dont have any additional water separation, just the stock filter bowl for that. and i run the baldwin pf7977 in there

 

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Hi dan, its this kit with the donaldson P551313 fuel filter. i dont have any additional water separation, just the stock filter bowl for that. and i run the baldwin pf7977 in there

VP MAX 5.9 CR Under Intake Filter System for Aftermarket Intake Manifolds 3/8"
Hi dan, its this kit with the donaldson P551313 fuel filter. i dont have any additional water separation, just the stock filter bowl for that. and i run the baldwin pf7977 in there

Hi dan, its this kit with the donaldson P551313 fuel filter. i dont have any additional water separation, just the stock filter bowl for that. and i run the baldwin pf7977 in there

Hi dan, its this kit with the donaldson P551313 fuel filter. i dont have any additional water separation, just the stock filter bowl for that. and i run the baldwin pf7977 in there

Hey Steve one other thing I have never heard my cooling fan come on What is the proper way to test that system Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Download the manual from the Newbies guide thread, details on how to test that are in there. In a nutshell you need to short one of the pins, not sure ground or +5v and the fan will kick on.
 

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Can also test with high end scan tool that support Dodge Ram Cummins. Actuate fan, Measured fan speed (rpms) and Commanded Fan Speed (rpms) from ECU. Fan controller has built in circuitry to measure fan speed rpms which is fed back to ECU electronically. ECU uses algorithim to make decision on whether fan clutch is operating to specs. Reason why so many of the cheap Chinese knockoffs fail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Can also test with high end scan tool that support Dodge Ram Cummins. Actuate fan, Measured fan speed (rpms) and Commanded Fan Speed (rpms) from ECU. Fan controller has built in circuitry to measure fan speed rpms which is fed back to ECU electronically. ECU uses algorithim to make decision on whether fan clutch is operating to specs. Reason why so many of the cheap Chinese knockoffs fail.
I’m not familiar with where the newbies guide is

Newbies guide... top of the powertrain forum (@steelhead1 with the missing thread discussion we had earlier, wonder where that really belongs :LOL: )


You'll have to dig in there some for it but it should not be hard to find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Another thing Steve I would like your opinion on Would you repair the stock cooling fan system or go to the fan clutch hub style With adapter??
Depends on your use and motivation... I ditched the fans years back in favor of a custom e-fan setup. Several here have the manual conversion and are really happy with it. I think utahtrapper and for sure spooled05 both have the manual conversion and both of them tow heavier than most. utahtrapper is up in the mountains so his probably gets abused quite a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Is that the first stop from the fuel tank? or is that after the stock housing
No its the last before the CP3... always filter finer the closer to the CP3, mine is a screen in front of the Walbro followed by the oem filter followed by the donaldson.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
And the madness begins, have entered the 450k +/- 500 mile window and will be gathering up fluids & filters. Took inventory of whats on the shelf and I have some of the fluids already so those are already on hand but the cost of the total fluids rounded up to the full quart will be documented in post #1. I did do the math in the head and loosely came up with a $750 price tag for the service with me doing the power steering, trans, trans case and diffs... and the fuel filters which I always do anyways.

The last time I had the brakes flushed it ran $100 bux so I expect that to still be the case. This service will bring everything back into alignment, mainly the 3 mic fuel filter and power steering are out because of the issues in 2012.

Go Ram Go... comon 500k!
 

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Steve , what RP oil you using ? I’m about to switch and they got the Duralec super and ultra , it shows the ultra has more zinc etc for no emission trucks . Probably going that route than I’ll be all RP in my ride .
 

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I understand the duralec but there’s a ultra and a super . The ultra looks to be for pre emissions and the super for the emissions trucks . Just figured I’d ask since you research everything, lol
 
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