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50k Service & Costs

3873 Views 50 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  steve05ram360
Sharing the insanity :LOL: of doing the maintenance the way I do every 50k, plus was curious on the cost of it all. I will detail the service, cost of the fluid and who did the work (some of it I dont do)

  • Oil Change:
    • Oil: Royal Purple 15w-40
    • Quantity: 14 quarts
    • Cost:118.93 + tax
    • Filter #1: Napa Gold
    • Cost: $16.64 + tax
    • Filter #2: Amsoil BK110
    • Cost: $45.80 + tax
    • Addon: Stiction Eliminator
    • Quantity: 1 quart
    • Cost: $29.99 + tax
    • Labor: Est. $45 for oil change & additional filter change
    • Total Parts: $209.37
Notes:​


  • Fuel Filter:
    • Filter #1: Baldwin 7977
    • Cost: $16.60
    • Filter #2: Donaldson P51355 (?) (Swapped every 25k)
    • Cost: $17.98
    • Total: $34.58 + tax
Notes:​


  • Transmission
    • Oil: Royal Purple 75w-90
    • Quantity: 3 Quarts
    • Cost: $60.09 + tax
    • Oil: Royal Purple Synchromax
    • Quantity: 3 quarts
    • Cost: $55.77 + tax
    • Oil: Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer
    • Quantity: 1 quart
    • Cost: $13.98 + tax
    • Total: $129.84 + Tax
Notes:​

  • Transfer Case
    • Oil: Royal Purple SynchroMax
    • Qty: 2 quarts
    • Cost: $37.18 + tax
    • Total $37.18 + tax
Notes:​

  • Front Differential
    • Oil: Royal Purple 75w-90
    • Quantity: 3 quarts
    • Cost: $60.27 + tax
    • Total: $60.27 + tax
Notes:​

  • Rear Differential
    • Oil: Royal Purple 75w-90
    • Quantity: 4 Quarts
    • Cost: $80.36 + tax
    • Total: $80.36 + tax
Notes:​

  • Power Steering
    • Oil: Royal Purple ATF Max
    • Quantity: 2 Quarts
    • Cost: $31.18 + tax
    • Total: 31.18 + tax
Notes:​

  • Brake Flush (Les Schwab)
    • Cost: est $99.99 + tax
    • Total:
Notes​
Total Parts = 582.78 + tax​
Total Labor = $145 est (oil change & brake flush)​

Overkill? Maybe... Been doing this since around 100k but not all aligned to the 50k interval (250k, 300k, 350k etc) on the odometer until 250k. I allows me to not have to think about when a service is due and have peace of mind that the truck needs nothing until that next interval of either 10k (oil & fuel) 25k (3 um filter) or 50k (all of it)

Adding Fluid Capacities

920316


Link to trans fluids used
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Nice! my 3 um filter does not make it much past 25k, cant image trying to run both out to 60k
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Don’t forget to flush your brake fluid. Every 100k or 5 years. Brake fluid is hydroscopic and absorbs water. Water boils under high pressure & causes internal corrosion.
One fluid many overlook until they need to bleed the brakes after line or caliper change.
Post #1... already on there... and trust me, I dont forget anything... unless I'm going to the store for 1 item and didnt have a list :ROFLMAO:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I’ve been following your posts for years now & didn’t think you would miss that. All I seen in post #1 was brakes.
The comment was for all the other viewers reading. I just wanted to add my $0.02.
BTW, Stiction Eliminator helped some on my oil consumption. Down to a qt/1500km’s. Thanks for the tip
Thats awesome! Glad to hear it!

Yeah I did not catch the brakes missing the flush part... fixed it. Thanks for pointing that out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
My first oil change i did 12 quarts per the manual and had to drain a quart to bring it within the dipstick. Also, wouldnt have thought the amsoil thing was 1.5 quarts.
Updated Post #1 & Newbies guide with Capacities Pic

Here is a link to the filter used... it is massive. Mine is mounted on the frame which has extended lines to & from the engine. Return line is on the motor oil fill cap.


 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I know a couple of ex Mopar techs now self employed. They drain the oil for 15 minutes, fill the new filter and add the balance of the three gallons in there. My reads over too as do most but that's the spec.
I know a couple of techs at the local shop... they open up the fumoto valve then apply air pressure to the dipstick tube to force all the oil out faster (JK) to get me out faster :D they then charge me $30 bux for the fun of doing it.,

Seriously, they charge $27~28 to swap it & filter then ask a small add on for the big filter (I forget how much).
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Good morning Steve I was wondering what the correct part number was for that Donaldson fuel filter that you’re running And do you use the water separator on the Donaldson fuel filter ? Thanks
Hi dan, its this kit with the donaldson P551313 fuel filter. i dont have any additional water separation, just the stock filter bowl for that. and i run the baldwin pf7977 in there

 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Download the manual from the Newbies guide thread, details on how to test that are in there. In a nutshell you need to short one of the pins, not sure ground or +5v and the fan will kick on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Can also test with high end scan tool that support Dodge Ram Cummins. Actuate fan, Measured fan speed (rpms) and Commanded Fan Speed (rpms) from ECU. Fan controller has built in circuitry to measure fan speed rpms which is fed back to ECU electronically. ECU uses algorithim to make decision on whether fan clutch is operating to specs. Reason why so many of the cheap Chinese knockoffs fail.
I’m not familiar with where the newbies guide is

Newbies guide... top of the powertrain forum (@steelhead1 with the missing thread discussion we had earlier, wonder where that really belongs :LOL: )


You'll have to dig in there some for it but it should not be hard to find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Another thing Steve I would like your opinion on Would you repair the stock cooling fan system or go to the fan clutch hub style With adapter??
Depends on your use and motivation... I ditched the fans years back in favor of a custom e-fan setup. Several here have the manual conversion and are really happy with it. I think utahtrapper and for sure spooled05 both have the manual conversion and both of them tow heavier than most. utahtrapper is up in the mountains so his probably gets abused quite a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Is that the first stop from the fuel tank? or is that after the stock housing
No its the last before the CP3... always filter finer the closer to the CP3, mine is a screen in front of the Walbro followed by the oem filter followed by the donaldson.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
And the madness begins, have entered the 450k +/- 500 mile window and will be gathering up fluids & filters. Took inventory of whats on the shelf and I have some of the fluids already so those are already on hand but the cost of the total fluids rounded up to the full quart will be documented in post #1. I did do the math in the head and loosely came up with a $750 price tag for the service with me doing the power steering, trans, trans case and diffs... and the fuel filters which I always do anyways.

The last time I had the brakes flushed it ran $100 bux so I expect that to still be the case. This service will bring everything back into alignment, mainly the 3 mic fuel filter and power steering are out because of the issues in 2012.

Go Ram Go... comon 500k!
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
it the duralec 15w-40...

have everything in hand but the engine oil... updated post #1 with cost info
 

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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Its the Super... the ultra is a 10w-30 wt oil & not the 15w-40 like the super... it is what is on the shelf at orielies. I like available on the shelf stuff in case i ever need it on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Service is done... did the rear diff this morning, pulled the cover and was shocked at how clean it all came out. Going to leave the front diff and put it on a 100k interval since I have the lockouts and it does not get the full use out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 · (Edited)
once upon a time i had beeen doing the front bearings once a year (35k/yr), then once every 2 years, this time around it was 3. had no play or alarming noises and was running fine. used a shop the last few times since i was in an apt, this time with a garage over my head now it was up to me so it got done a few weeks back. had an issue with one sides brake carrier bolts that slowed me down but some deep creep penetrant broke the bond and bolts came off easy on the other side. which suprised me cause apparently surface rust was starting to grab the bolt shoulders and lock it in there. sprayed the shoulder with fluid film for next time.

total time on side 2 was quick, maybe 45 min to wheel back on ground. used royal purple grease as it was on hand and no reason to use anything else. repacked the outer and did the same on inner without removing the seal, left the inner bearing in place, packed... rotated bearing and repeat until satisfied. the inner bearing i used to pack but at the advice of spyntec (iirc) and the condition of it the last time i looked at it, i stopped. since the axle does not move all that often it can be pushed out a ways. the last time i looked at it was when i pulled the thuren kit for a repair, 2015 or so. probably should take another look at it. have axle ujoints to do and will have a look then.

going to do it every 50k moving forward...
 
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