Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum banner
1 - 20 of 32 Posts

Registered
Joined
87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I drilled the hole using a step bit from under the hood, heated up a screw driver and melted a hole through the insulation, Then took the step bit, and drilled out the insulation from inside the cab, then drilled the bottom right screw hole in the frame under the steering wheel, with a regular drill bit, installed the bracket. Ran the cable through, cut the grommet, and installed it from under the hood.

Got the fork out of the old housing, took clips out with flat head screw driver. Vacuum diaphragm pulls out, the nut just stops it from spinning. I busted the aluminum housing trying to turn the nut. 馃か
reused old breather fitting, got fork in with the 3 clips. Adjusted the cable until the washer bottomed out. The instructions say which washer needs to bottom out.

When it came to wiring up the 4x4 light switch, I decided not to cut the plug off the harness. Instead I went to My auto parts store, and luckily they had a plug that fit the stock one. I bought 18 gueage wire, and 18 gauge hoops, already had double walled shrink tubing, and made My own adapter and soldiered the terminals to the wires.
Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting Automotive design

Automotive tire Automotive exhaust Vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Automotive exterior

Helmet Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting Flash photography

Automotive lighting Steering wheel Motor vehicle Hood Audio equipment

Automotive tire Automotive lighting Bumper Automotive exterior Gas
 

Registered
1995 2500 auto,standard cab, 4x4
Joined
127 Posts
Nice work. It's been a year since I put mine on, I have no idea yet how well it works because truck is still in the shop. I put the cable inside a hose as recommended, and I think I used a big gear clamp to snug it up against the axle housing. The cable seemed too long, until I had to jack the truck up recently, and block under the frame. Looks barely long enough now. I made a small bracket to keep it close to the governor as I recall. It runs very close to rubbing on to something underneath but I'm not sure, maybe the oil pan.
 

Premium Member
Joined
3,976 Posts
I like the posi-lok a lot. The most use I get out of it is actually using 2wd low when backing up trailers into tight places (makes it so I don't have to ride the clutch as much).

I went a different route for the installation though. In my truck is seems like every time I touch the dash, another piece falls off it, so I didn't want to attach the cable to the dash. I drilled through the floor sheet metal and mounted the cable directly to the floor. If you use a step bit the carpet won鈥檛 snag and pull strings out.

Grey Automotive tire Fixture Auto part Road surface
 

Registered
Joined
87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I took the plastic piece of the dash off before drilling the hole where the bracket for the button goes. I see people on youtube riding the drill bit against the plastic, or breaking the plastic, while trying to drill the Hole bigger through the frame of the dash while the plastic is still installed. The hole in the plastic is either all messed up, or gets broken while drilling. After I got the cable through the firewall, I reinstalled the plastic, then drilled through the plastic in less then a second, making a nice clean hole. I also torque the snot out of the bolt, and the plastic has not broken. I only had to buy My self one extra tool, because I only have a 3/8 cheap $6 Walmart drill, that I got 6 years ago, and I don鈥檛 have a drill bit bigger then 5/8. So I would need to buy a bigger drill, and a bigger bit, Since I have a whole slew of quality black bits that last forever, the 11/16 bit would have been expensive to get both so I got a cheap set of step bits luckily sale at Canadian Tire for 24.99. They fit the cheap drill, they are short too, the cheap corded Walmart drill is also small, so I was able to fit it in a tight spot to drill the hole from under the hood, since the template wasn鈥檛 working for me. Ended up working perfect cause I didn鈥檛 cut a ugly hole in the floor. So I got a new tool for My huge collection. 馃槉
Automotive tire Asphalt Reflex camera Road surface Personal protective equipment

Wood Hand tool Rectangle Electric blue Smile
 

Super Moderator
Joined
25,681 Posts
I like the posi-lok a lot. The most use I get out of it is actually using 2wd low when backing up trailers into tight places (makes it so I don't have to ride the clutch as much).

I went a different route for the installation though. In my truck is seems like every time I touch the dash, another piece falls off it, so I didn't want to attach the cable to the dash. I drilled through the floor sheet metal and mounted the cable directly to the floor. If you use a step bit the carpet won鈥檛 snag and pull strings out.

View attachment 971629

The dash is the worst place to put it, the floor is much better.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Antonm

Registered
Joined
87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Hubs seize, and you have to get our of your truck everytime, unless you have the CAD also. Then your stylin. I always wonder how long it will be before My new inner axle seals I put in 6 years ago will fail. The axle shafts turn all the time, without manual locking hubs. I guess you can repack those bearings and make them last forever too. But the hubs are expensive. Where do you get them? I have some Ford bronco hubs, and spindle but I need a different stub shaft or sumthin to make them work, and need to drill new holes in the spindle to mount to the dodge knuckle. When I bought My truck I just bought a $100 mevotech bearing. It鈥檚 lasted 6 years. Going down a hill and around a tight corner with speed you can hear the bearing make a little noise, but it鈥檚 tight, and works fine. The old bearing that was on the truck when I got it doesn鈥檛 make any noise.
 

Premium Member
Joined
5,144 Posts
Ford OBS dana 60... take everything from the axle "C" out. Dodge inner shaft to ford outer stub. Done deal. Ford brakes, bearings and seals. I belive the dodge and ford use the same ball joints.

Some guys re-drill the knuckle, use dana 50 stuff. 79 f350 rotors or something..Way cheaper and easier to locate... however you get stuck with dodge calipers. Little more fab work, but its definitely a significant improvement.

I lock my hubs before i get into trouble off road. The only downfall of this swap is its expensive.

Never seen a hub sieze, just repack the bearings every few years. Do it once a year if you run in the mud.
 
  • Like
Reactions: frankenford

Registered
Joined
87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ford OBS dana 60... take everything from the axle "C" out. Dodge inner shaft to ford outer stub. Done deal. Ford brakes, bearings and seals. I belive the dodge and ford use the same ball joints.

Some guys re-drill the knuckle, use dana 50 stuff. 79 f350 rotors or something..Way cheaper and easier to locate... however you get stuck with dodge calipers. Little more fab work, but its definitely a significant improvement.

I lock my hubs before i get into trouble off road. The only downfall of this swap is its expensive.

Never seen a hub sieze, just repack the bearings every few years. Do it once a year if you run in the mud.
Ya I took the spindles and everything that goes with them, from an IFS Dana 50. The ford I got them off had automatic hubs. Not sure if their any good, but the stuff was free for Me to rip off.
Gas Plumbing Metal Tints and shades Pipe

Watch Analog watch Clock Wood Wrist

Finger Hood Nail Auto part Comfort food
 

Premium Member
Joined
3,976 Posts
I鈥檇 like to do true lockout hubs too. Only thing stopping me is cost and the fact that there鈥檚 nothing wrong with the front end now.

Once this set of unit bearings wears out ( part store Moogs) , I鈥檒l probably either go either a Ford unit bearing conversion or the expensive aftermarket locking hub / traditional tapered roller bearing conversion. The more I think about it, the aftermarket kit isn鈥檛 such a bad deal as it鈥檚 all new parts.
 
  • Like
Reactions: frankenford

Super Moderator
Joined
25,681 Posts

Registered
Joined
87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Same thing I did for my D60 only thing I trashed the automatic hubs for the manual type lockouts.
I am looking for the stub shafts, I found a pair, 78-79 but no snap ring groove. Does that matter? I was reading a forum about needing to cut a groove for certain stub shafts, but the 78-97 should go right in. But I dont see a groove on the ones listed, I also looked on a forum, and his stub shafts didn鈥檛 have grooves ether. Will the inner axle, and universal stay centred without the snap ring?
 

Super Moderator
Joined
25,681 Posts
The stub shafts I bought didn't have the grooves and I don't have any issues. It's been 6 years ago when I did the swap.
 
  • Like
Reactions: frankenford

Registered
Joined
87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The stub shafts I bought didn't have the grooves and I don't have any issues. It's been 6 years ago when I did the swap.
The stub shafts I bought didn't have the grooves and I don't have any issues. It's been 6 years ago when I did the swap.
He wants $130 CAN for the both full axles but I need to ship it about 100 miles. Looks like the one doesn鈥檛 have grooves but the two rust ones do.
Hand tool Wood Metalworking hand tool Metal Tool

Hand tool Tool Wood Musical instrument Office ruler
 

Super Moderator
Joined
25,681 Posts

Registered
Joined
87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
He said 78 and 79 ford Dana 60. I鈥檓 also looking at a ford Dana 60 with matching rear for $500. The rear has drum brakes, the Dana 60 has ball joints, just asked him if they are dual calliper. If they are dual calliper and the rear diff has drums, does that make it the holy grail for the swap using the knuckles callipers and larger rotors? If it鈥檚 single calliper then the knuckles are useless right?
 

Premium Member
Joined
5,144 Posts
You want 90s f350 Dana 60s with ball joints... ideally you want bolt on calipers, but the slide on ones work fine.

The 78,79 use the correct rotor for the dana 50 setup iirc
 

Registered
Joined
87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
The guy with the whole dif wants. $500 and it doesn鈥檛 have the hubs or callipers, and the are the wedge design. I鈥檓 gonna buy the stubs for $130 hopefully shipping doesnt kill me. And I鈥檒l try.to find some rotors. Are the rotors for a 78, and 79 just as big and thick as a 97 dodge Cummins? I guess it should be since My calliper will work right? Also why do I need really old rotors on a hub that鈥檚 from the 80s? Is the 78 and 79 rotor the only rotor that will work for My dodge Knuckle with the ford spindle?

hey i just found a 93 f350 Dana 60 with everything but the yoke. Would that year have the dual piston Bolt on callipers? Meh the diff is too far away. Would cost too much. What year locking hubs do I need for the ford spindles?
 

Super Moderator
Joined
25,681 Posts
The guy with the whole dif wants. $500 and it doesn鈥檛 have the hubs or callipers, and the are the wedge design. I鈥檓 gonna buy the stubs for $130 hopefully shipping doesnt kill me. And I鈥檒l try.to find some rotors. Are the rotors for a 78, and 79 just as big and thick as a 97 dodge Cummins? I guess it should be since My calliper will work right? Also why do I need really old rotors on a hub that鈥檚 from the 80s? Is the 78 and 79 rotor the only rotor that will work for My dodge Knuckle with the ford spindle?

hey i just found a 93 f350 Dana 60 with everything but the yoke. Would that year have the dual piston Bolt on callipers? Meh the diff is too far away. Would cost too much. What year locking hubs do I need for the ford spindles?

The 78-79 Ford F350 rotors are what you need, I also heard that you can use the TTB50 rotors but you have to turn the OD down because they are I think about 1/2" bigger.

If the spindles are from the TTB50 then lockouts from a OBS Ford F350. My TTB50 was a 96, but you need to count the stub shaft splines should be 30 for the OBS Ford.
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top