Remember to check the lines all separately in each transfer case mode. You checked the main line to the pump and the lines to the heater/cruise? They are all one vessel. You are not checking the ones from the switch to the actuator except when 4x4 on the vacuum switch. Check both sides of the actuator diaphragm (both lines).
Were you the one I thought you had something in backwards or a bad snap ring in the TC?
Yes, I did. Originally, it would I would get a clunk in the front end, but the 4wd light stayed on. Assumed it was the TC chain. Months later, it would do it and the 4wd light would go off.
Under the truck now. Testing all the lines-- it appears that where the black line goes into the actuator, it drains vacuum fast. Testing the actuator I took off, both sides of the diaphragm test fine. Yet the problem exists with either actuator.
Is it possible I needed a new vacuum harness, replaced the actuator which was bad right out of the box, the replaced the harness, only to switch where the vac leak is?
I guess I can put the 3 y/o actuator back on and see what happens. Both are Dorman, fwiw.
Pulled the actuator off. One of the plastic pads was broken off inside, the other had half of a side missing and was ready to come off. Replaced everything, the fork direction matches pics on the net, and took it for a spin. Everything seems to be working fine now. Sometimes the actuator seems slower, getting in/out of gear-- not sure if that will be a problem or not.
I'll know more with the next snow, but drove it up my hill and a mile on a level, straight road and it stayed in gear the whole time.
Anyway, it appears I got two bad Dorman parts in a row.
One time or another you probably had the actuator mounted with the fork out of the collar grove. The couple of seconds going in is the splines lined up on the collar to move onto the axle, not a problem. So did you replace the pads or whole fork, whole unit or what?
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