[jarnipman]

Here we go, I'm getting geared up to rebuild my 48RE (2006 2500). There is so much confusion in my mind on various trans components, wondering if anyone had any input on:

1. I see that Sonnax has a smart input that comes with a piston and you can install an extra friction, is there any reason not to get this Sonnax vs. just a plain billet input shaft? The price is not a factor for me between the two. I'm going to do the input because if I'm pulling the trans, why not unless the stock can hold up to 450-500HP safely?

https://www.sonnax.com/parts/3937-smart-tech-high-capacity-input-shaft-piston-kit

https://www.sonnax.com/parts/1818-heavy-duty-input-shaft

2. Anyone use cascade trans parts, they use Excedy frictions, are Excedy frictions good?

3. Single disc vs triple disc and the flex plate issue. I would like to make up to 450-500HP. Everywhere I read I see conflicting information when you need a flexplate and when you need a triple disc converter. I'm not sure what to think.

4. Any good tips on daily driver stall speed on converter?

5. Also thinking on valve body, shift kit, etc.

 

[smelonas]

The stock TC, flexplate and input are all 500hp parts. I would replace all of them just for peace of mind. You are in that far right?

You want raybestos GPz frictions. The rebuild kit from dynamic trans parts is pretty damn comprehensive and has the support to back it up. That's what I would use.

I would use the TCS input shaft. They seem to be what everyone uses. Sonnax is always reinventing the wheel and their stuff seems to cause more issues than it solves.

TC.. goerend or DPC are good solid options. 1800-1900 stall for DD. Lower or higher causes driveability issues. Triple disc is fine and that leads me to the next thing..

Valve body. Lots of good valve bodys out there really. Dynamics is pretty sweet. Plenty of pressure. Muldoon also builds a sweet VB from what I gather.

Any other questions, ask away.

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[jarnipman]

Thanks for the super helpful reply. I'm not into yet, just about ready to order parts. I'm stock and have been waiting to do this until I got to the end of my useful trans life. 160K on the trans and I have just reached the point where I can no longer adjust the front band, which says to me it's time for a pre-emptive rebuild/upgrade for a tuner, etc.

Was not aware of dynamic trans, their kits about cover all of it. Do you know if the excedy are any good in general, I have only used ray and BW and are comfortable with them.

The key question is I don't know how long I will keep my truck so I'm kind of budget. That's why I am toying around with money savers like superior shift kit vs valve body. Single disc TC vs triple disc, etc. I am thinking if I can get the line pressure up with a shift kit to hold a new rebuild and some minimal new billet parts, I can probably get a pretty good trans. If the truck was brand new I would go for the full works.

Definately a new TC, but can i get away with a stock input and flexplate, say if it's a 400HP build? I will probably replace them anyway for peace of mind as you say, nothing worse then getting a tow 2000 miles away from home with a trailer.

 

[smelonas]

Best budget build is to just use GPZ clutches and high energy band, upgraded TC and flexplate and stock input. Leave valve body as is. Shift kits tend to leave a mark on valve bodys.. especially trans go, they are the worst.

That way, if the next person wants to upgrade the VB, all they have to do is swap it out.

I would call Jon, and tell him what you are looking for. He will sell you what you need.

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[MDSWA]

I'm running a Dynamic Stage 3 with all the parts in the build kit on his site (well mostly the same as he's changed a supplier or two over time). Jon built that kit over time to build the strongest, most reliable 47/48RE possible for various power levels. All the parts are designed to work with each other. I'm running just a little over of 400 HP with the mods in my signature and the transmission is doing great. I've got room to grow as this transmission is rated to 500 HP. You might give him a call to share your goals and budget. He's a great guy to talk to and knows these transmissions inside and out.

 

[Flyingfinn73]

X2 on getting ahold of Jon at Dynamic. Excellent guy and willing to talk to you about transmissions regardless you knowledge of them or lack thereof. Didn’t know about him prior to building mine or I would’ve gone through him just based on the couple times I’ve talked to him. I put in a Revmax 550hp combo kit which although in the process of working out a couple bugs, can’t say I’m unhappy with. I pulled a 10k 5th wheel to Scheid X and back last weekend and came in at 565 on their dyno. Which I was a little disappointed with, but that’s another story. Trans held up well to that trip so I’m feeling pretty good about my build. As said, IF you go shift kit vs new VB, stick with Superior instead of Transgo. I had a Transgo before rebuild, which worked fine, but when you go to buy new, Revmax along with some others will knock $ off the core they give you if it had a Transgo install


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[smelonas]

Transgo is BAD.

Superior is better.

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[jarnipman]

One more question for anyone...both the transgo and superior have you notch the valve body at what I think is the shuttle valve, where a new valve is installed as a vent. What is the purpose of this upgraded valve, what does it do? I was wondering if I could intall the superior without notching and installing that valve to see if I like the rest of hte kit without drilling the valve body?

 

[Dynamic]

The manual valve is arguably the most important part of the kit. It forces converter charge and cooler flow in "Park". Superior's valve is the best on the market, IMO. You need to cut the exhaust slot in the VB if you use the manual valve.

 

[jarnipman]

Thanks dynamic, I have seen some of your older posts and know your trans speciality experience, so I am glad you saw my post and I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions. I will notch and install the manual valve. If you don't mind I have a few other minor questions....does the TC drain back if I do the manual valve update and would I have to wait in park for a bit to refill it at startup? I know it's good to warm up the truck anyway, but just curious. I already have some sort of drain back issue, when the truck sits for a few days, I have to wait for the converter to fill, don't want it to be any longer.

The other kit question is the superior kit they say to drill the 0.55 hole to vent the throttle valve bore and and to install the throttle valve. Is this something good to do or omit this part? I don't really understand what the exhaust vent hole is doing here. I like to understand it before I drill a hole. My experience to transmissions is limited to rebuilding about 20-30 to stock over my lifetime, so I'm not good with the performance mods.

Dang it I also accidentally ordered the Sonnax front magnum servo and I meant to get the super servo. Should i not install the magnum and see if I can sell it someone, or i can just use the billet strut and wedge in the kit. I'm not sure what to do on this one, I'm worried the magnum with billet parts might put to much force on my slip in band?

One more, Excedy friction plates ok, or stay away from them?

 

[Dynamic]

I would definitely recommend against drilling the .055" hole in the TV valve portion of PR valve train. That was Superior's way to try to manipulate one of the balance signals in the PR system, and is not one of their finer ideas. There are certainly ways to manipulate the balance signals, and many of us VB builders do, but that's not the way to do it. Just leave all of that stock, except for the PR spring. Use the spring they sent in the kit.

You will not see drain back because of the manual valve, in fact, it will help refill the converter faster by providing converter charge in "Park". Some guys like to drill a line-to-lube hole as well. This will provide a constant flow of lube oil, even in high line pressure, low rpm situations. This can increase converter drain back, but with the new manual valve, drain back should be a non-issue.

I would also leave out the long pink spring that they give you for the accumulator piston. I have found it unnecessary, and don't personally care for the 1-2 shift feel with that spring in place.

I only recommend either a stock intermediate servo with the plunger blocked in the extended position, or a stock-spec billet servo (ie. TCS or equivalent).

My personal preference is the Raybestos GPZ frictions, and that's all I use in the 4-speed Dodges anymore. The Exedy is basically a stock replacement grade of friction. Probably nothing wrong with them, but I prefer to use something that I know works well.

 

[jarnipman]

Awesome thanks, well I'm getting into now, with new electronics to, hope to have it all back together tonight for a test drive...will post back how I like it with details on what I did for everyone else....I know this 48re stuff has been beaten to death already, but it's complicated for those of us that don't do it often. We appreciate all the expert advice on the finer details.

 

[jarnipman]

Oh boy, Dynamic or any other trans expert I need help on this problem with my valve body!!!!! I have a 48RE valve body that I am working on and there is not a shred of doubt about that! However, I have check ball #2 in my valve body and it should be eliminated according to the ATSG manual and shift kit! Why do I have a checkball at #2 in place where it should be eliminated from the 48RE? Do some 48RE have #2 or is it possible some dingbat rebuilt the trans at some point and installed #2 accidentally by looking at the 47RE diagram? The valve body and seperater plates are definately 48RE. What will happen if I have #2 in there when it is not supposed to be or what will happen if I now take it out? Driving wise I have not paid attention to manual 2 or forced dowshifts, so I don't know if they are working properly?

 

[jarnipman]

Intersting many of the youtube videos and a few post and articles I found have the #2 checkball in the 48RE. That's weird because I have always used ASTG manual for rebuilds and I usually trust them on it.

 

[Dynamic]

That check ball is in there from the factory, even in a 48RE. The 2nd passage in its "bathtub" is eliminated, but Chrysler still puts the ball in there for some reason. The ATSG book is kind of misleading. You can leave it out when you go back together, though.

 

[jarnipman]

Thanks Dynamic, you are beyond helpful. Ya, you are right the redesign is clear in the schematic and from looking at the bathtub setup. I was talking to my stepfather about this (he is a diesel mechanic so we have the cummins covered) and we hypothesized that the factory has a quality control assembly process in place, possibly either training, a site guide, or likely a camera verifying checkball placement, heck for all I know a robot installs the check balls and it was not worth them updating their assembly controls to remove the useless ball, so they just let the process run at the factory. This would make sense to me. I am sure there was an actuary type financial engineer that calculated the cost of retooling/retraining vs installing the cheap plastic ball and the ball one. This ball must be tripping up a lot of guys who are not pro builders like me. But thank you, I feel good about it now. So I can flip a coin essentially on what to do with it.

 

[Dynamic]

No problem. I'm glad I could help.

 

[Dynamic]

That's weird because I have always used ASTG manual for rebuilds and I usually trust them on it.

Yeah, just like the Factory Service Manual, take the ATSG manual with a little bit if a grain of salt. It can be good guide to show how things go back together if you get stuck, but in many cases there are better ways to do things.

 

[jarnipman]

Oh great, now i have a weird code that popped up. Truck is back together and it drives perfect. I love the shift kit and the work I did on it, however, it flashed code "0868 Trans fluid pressure low" on my scan tool. I see there is also an 0868 code in the ATSG manual for governer pressure sensor, voltage to high, so perhaps my scan tool is giving the wrong description of the code? I'm wondering why this code would flash about 15 minutes into my test drive. It drives perfect as far as I can tell. I deleted the code and will see if it comes back, but assuming it comes back I'm not sure what to do about it because I installed all new electronics and damaged none of them and properly routed the harness.

 

[jarnipman]

OK my bad I need to add/modify to the post above, a little more driving around reveals that P0868 appears at higher speeds 50-60MPH when in tow/haul or OD when the RPMs are higher. The stinkin' code then puts my truck into 3rd gear start limp mode which is beyond annoying until I delete it. It keeps coming back so it's not a fluke and I will be stuck in 3rd for eternity until I reset the code, then it is back to normal until the code comes up again. I am thinking either the brand new sensor is no good or the increased line pressure from the shift kit is making the sensor voltage to high, tripping the code, but I'm also thinking that it is not line pressure because if that were the case it would be impossible to ever increase pressure in the 48RE which I know is not the case. Any tips on how to deal with this one? I have the old sensor and i could put it back in and try it. Again all electronics including the harness are new. Everything else works just fine other than this.