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We need a bit more information. What hp goals do you have for your truck? Do you tow, what do you tow, how often will you be towing. What is the absolute most that you are willing to spend? Basically we need to know what we are advising on besides just simply a 48re transmission.
 

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I rebuilt my own but consulted with a couple well known builders to get it right/ if your just looking for upgrades it’s important that what you have is healthy.

By far the best decision I made was to farm out the valve body. I had it built by Dynamic in Spokane. Fantastic work from John. There is no way I could have thrown in a shift kit and got it to work this damn good. That and a good triple disc converter (Goerend or DPC are great).

Keep in mind with a triple disc if the valve body is not setup correctly you will have a lockuo that may be too harsh for your liking and may be too hard on your input shaft.

I would avoid the “super servo” as it can cause shift timing problems. Most high pressure VB’s come with an additional spring for the intermediate servo to dial in 2-3 shift but are setup for stock size servo.

So basically my advise is Valve Body is key! But I am no expert this is just my experience.


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If your already towing with 450HP have you done anything to the trans?


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Are you trying to not pull the trans?


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Discussion Starter #8
Doesn’t matter! I want no problems with new tranny ! We started full time RVing will be pulling 80% of the time .
 

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Then full rebuild all the way! Where are you located (typically as your mobile)?


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Only asking for shop recommendations but maybe you plan to take this on yourself?


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Sorry pulling a 8000 lb trailer , 5.9 Cummins 450 hp . Full time RVers
I can’t help with a shop recommendation. But for your situation, I would do a full rebuild with upgraded forward clutches and pan off style upgrades. A custom built valve body will do you wonders.
 

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Fred Swanson Phoenix area. The best down there.


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Ya I can’t help with shop recommendations in that area either. I saw a recommendation posted on upgraded forward clutches. This gets complicated as the forward clutches actually sit farther back in the case and the direct clutches are more “forward”. The forward clutches are probably the least to be concerned with. They hold fine with the 4 clutches from the factory. The direct clutch (which location wise is the forward clutch and probably what the other poster was referring too) is the one you want to consider upgrading.

Factory count is 5 clutches. I ran 7 from the advice of my VB builder and it works really well.

With that said I wouldn’t get too caught up in clutch counts with your use and power levels. Factory counts with upgraded clutches (Raybestos GPZ seem to be the most universally liked and what I used) on a HP VB will hold your power levels with ease.

A valve body with good pressure will not work well with a 5:1 2nd gear band lever, which is stock on 48RE. Keep this in mind when going over parts lists. If it really is a HP VB the lever ratio, and material, needs to be addressed.

A reputable builder that you can trust will eliminate the need for all of this information. I found some, just wanted to do it myself. It didn’t save me a dime! But I had A LOT of fun!

I recommend finding a good shop (ensure they are good) and you can sit back and relax knowing it’s in good hands! There’s a lot to learn here.


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Ya I can’t help with shop recommendations in that area either. I saw a recommendation posted on upgraded forward clutches. This gets complicated as the forward clutches actually sit farther back in the case and the direct clutches are more “forward”. The forward clutches are probably the least to be concerned with. They hold fine with the 4 clutches from the factory. The direct clutch (which location wise is the forward clutch and probably what the other poster was referring too) is the one you want to consider upgrading.

Factory count is 5 clutches. I ran 7 from the advice of my VB builder and it works really well.

With that said I wouldn’t get too caught up in clutch counts with your use and power levels. Factory counts with upgraded clutches (Raybestos GPZ seem to be the most universally liked and what I used) on a HP VB will hold your power levels with ease.

A valve body with good pressure will not work well with a 5:1 2nd gear band lever, which is stock on 48RE. Keep this in mind when going over parts lists. If it really is a HP VB the lever ratio, and material, needs to be addressed.

A reputable builder that you can trust will eliminate the need for all of this information. I found some, just wanted to do it myself. It didn’t save me a dime! But I had A LOT of fun!

I recommend finding a good shop (ensure they are good) and you can sit back and relax knowing it’s in good hands! There’s a lot to learn here.


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He is absolutely correct. I totally mentioned the wrong pack.
 

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I’m gathering parts to do a mild upgrade on mine now..

One of the things I’ve noticed after talking to two trans shops is that they both pushed me towards a stock rebuild with a shift kit and didn’t want to talk about anything else. “It’s a waste of money, you don’t want that” was what I heard about billet input shafts, upgrading the strut, lever, servos, clutches, etc. Even when I pointed out what I wanted to do HP wise (450-500 is my goal) they just tuned out and said something about warranty and never having problems with the 48re. My take away was that I hadn’t found the right place yet.

That’s a long way to say be sure you find the right guy!
 

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Gravel, ya a lot shops don’t think you NEED a full billet built tranny. Let me tell you, it makes a big difference putting the power down and not worrying about it.


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V2, it surprised me. I wasn’t even talking full billet, just the stuff most competent shops use at the 500-600HP level.. no worries, I’m studying up to decide if I want to go ahead and do it myself
 
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