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Hi guys kind of knew here just bought a 2006 Cummings auto transmission guy I bought it from said the guy he bought it from said it had a Billet built transmission in it. I don't know for sure shifts fine has a bad transmission leak in it I'm going to install mag-hytec pan on it for better Cooling. Also when you put it in gear it takes a while to get moving. I don't know much about transmission's. Band adjustment May be???Any way to find out if it's a Billet built transmission by pulling the pan or do you have to yank out
the transmission to look at the parts. Probably a dumb question for you knowledgeable guys don't beat me up too bad. Thanks for any information
 

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You won't be able to see any of the shafts to confirm they are billet but other parts like a red or black servos gold colored kick down band lever and anchor might tell you if it's built over stock.

As to the aftermarket pan, I'm not convinced they do all that much. I've got a stock tin pan and since I installed a mystery switch and one of Jon at Dynamic Transmission Parts' custom valve bodies that allows torque converter lock up in all forward gears I don't have a heating issue.

Before the valve body replacement when pulling 20,000 pounds on steep mountain roads it would heat up really bad.

Check the shift shaft seal and the wiring bulkhead connection for your leak. If it's a stock rubber stripped plastic gasket they are pretty good about sealing unless they've been over used or the rubber has been cut or scuffed.

Give Jon a call. He's great to do business with and very helpful.
 

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As to the aftermarket pan, I'm not convinced they do all that much.
I agree.

If it's really a billet transmission, I doubt that a factory torque converter would have been installed. If you remove the cover from the beneath the torque converter and inspect the torque converter all around, you MAY see a stamped name and/or a model number. If it is a stock converter, I would be skeptical that the transmission was anything other than stock.

My triple disc converter is serious about lockup. When it goes into lock up, it means business, it feels like someone just tapped my rear bumper with their front bumper. If yours feels soft and mushy, it's probably stock.

Gil
 

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Mike @ Dude's Diesel Performance
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Hi guys kind of knew here just bought a 2006 Cummings auto transmission guy I bought it from said the guy he bought it from said it had a Billet built transmission in it. I don't know for sure shifts fine has a bad transmission leak in it I'm going to install mag-hytec pan on it for better Cooling. Also when you put it in gear it takes a while to get moving. I don't know much about transmission's. Band adjustment May be???Any way to find out if it's a Billet built transmission by pulling the pan or do you have to yank out
the transmission to look at the parts. Probably a dumb question for you knowledgeable guys don't beat me up too bad. Thanks for any information
Does it have stock pan on it? Aftermarket pans will help keep things cooler longer as there is more fluid with the extra capacity (usually 4 quarts). The drain plugs are really the biggest improvement IMO.

When you say it takes a while to move are we talking 5 seconds? 10 seconds?

When I had my 48 built they removed a check ball that held fluid in converter for better all around flow. I would have to wait 5-10 seconds for converter to fill with fluid.

Shoot me a pm if you’d like pricing on a pan or any other parts!
 

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Hey Mike yes it has a stock oil pan when I put it in reverse to get out of the garage it takes 5 or 10 seconds to move maybe you're right maybe that check ball has been removed I don't know it shifts just fine once it starts moving. Going to have to degrease everything tighten all bolts to see where it's leaking. It has pillar gauges on it says it gets kind of warm like to 230 to 240 degrees pulling nothing. Just bought this thing has rebuilt engine in it first owner trashed the motor. I got to see where the trans temp gauge is connected. I before or after the cooler?? It's not in the transmission pan so it's connected before or after the cooler
 

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Mike @ Dude's Diesel Performance
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230/240 is hot IMO. Usually you want it to mirror engine temp or a bit cooler so 170-200 range when

I would check the return line for the gauge reading. There is a type of reader that fits over the metal crimping on the return line to read temps.

What kind of gauges?
 

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Hey Mike the gauges are Phantom Auto Meter it looks like they ain't too cheap reading some of the reviews don't know.I'll have to find one of those meters to check if the reading is accurate on the gauge. Still didn't have time to see where it's tapped into it's not a pan. Thanks Mike and everyone else I'll keep you posted
 

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Mike @ Dude's Diesel Performance
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Hey Mike the gauges are Phantom Auto Meter it looks like they ain't too cheap reading some of the reviews don't know.I'll have to find one of those meters to check if the reading is accurate on the gauge. Still didn't have time to see where it's tapped into it's not a pan. Thanks Mike and everyone else I'll keep you posted
Autometer makes a good gauge so likely not the culprit. Reading the return line will have a higher reading than in pan or feed line. Keep us posted
 

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My built tranny takes a few seconds to engage when first started. Thats normal. Once running it’s fine. Also, check the tranny fluid level, it might be high and thus the leaking out of the vent. Smell it and look at it. Should not smell burnt or a super dark color either. Might need a fluid change?


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You won't be able to see any of the shafts to confirm they are billet but other parts like a red or black servos gold colored kick down band lever and anchor might tell you if it's built over stock.

As to the aftermarket pan, I'm not convinced they do all that much. I've got a stock tin pan and since I installed a mystery switch and one of Jon at Dynamic Transmission Parts' custom valve bodies that allows torque converter lock up in all forward gears I don't have a heating issue.

Before the valve body replacement when pulling 20,000 pounds on steep mountain roads it would heat up really bad.

Check the shift shaft seal and the wiring bulkhead connection for your leak. If it's a stock rubber stripped plastic gasket they are pretty good about sealing unless they've been over used or the rubber has been cut or scuffed.

Give Jon a call. He's great to do business with and very helpful.
Do you have to manually actuate the torque converter lock up with a switch?
 

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My Sun Coast transmission's lines were all replaced with -8AN hydraulic hoses, therefore it doesn't have the check valve and it doesn't hesitate to engage, whether parked over night or over a week. I just start it and go, no waiting, no delayed engagement.

Gil
 

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Do you have to manually actuate the torque converter lock up with a switch?
I can or just let it lock up automatically. I have a switch that when on locks the torque converter and when off it shifts as it did from the factory. They call them a "mystery switch". Why I can tell you.
 

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I have a stage 3 BD Power transmission with billet shaft, and Banks torque converter with HD flex plate. I can start me truck at 20 degrees and drive away with no hesitation from the trans. I do not have a lockup switch.

When towing heavy, 10k+, my trans shifts hard. I saw someone post about it feeling like you've been rearended, same here.
 
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If your trans guy is any good, you should be able to start it and immediately put it in gear and get one.

The whole delayed shift thing comes from a stock valve body with no check ball. The stock valve body is a sorry POS really. It doesnt have full cooler circuit flow in all gears. By making it flow fully in all gears, first morning starts arent an issue.

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I have a stage 3 BD Power transmission with billet shaft, and Banks torque converter with HD flex plate. I can start me truck at 20 degrees and drive away with no hesitation from the trans. I do not have a lockup switch.

When towing heavy, 10k+, my trans shifts hard. I saw someone post about it feeling like you've been rearended, same here.
^^^^^That was me.
 
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