Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum banner

81 - 95 of 95 Posts

Registered
Joined
1,711 Posts
I would highly recommend a custom valve body in your 48RE, and not just a "shift kit". There are just way too many things that a WELL BUILT (do your homework here, there's a lot of not-so-good stuff out there) valve body will give you that a "shift kit" will not.

But, of the two kits you listed, I would definitely recommend the Superior over the Transgo. Neither will give you the pressures and pressure control that you really need to keep your transmission happy behind the Cummins, though.
 

Registered
Joined
49 Posts
I would highly recommend a custom valve body in your 48RE, and not just a "shift kit". There are just way too many things that a WELL BUILT (do your homework here, there's a lot of not-so-good stuff out there) valve body will give you that a "shift kit" will not.

But, of the two kits you listed, I would definitely recommend the Superior over the Transgo. Neither will give you the pressures and pressure control that you really need to keep your transmission happy behind the Cummins, though.
Thanks for the advice. Any recommendations? I see valvebodies being sold by the big names and was a bit shocked at the pricing. That was why I thought doing it myself would be a good tradeoff, but I can be swayed to believe a custom would be worth it. Maybe I should just keep the vb stock until its time for a rebuild? or maybe swap to a nv5600馃榾
 

Registered
Joined
1,711 Posts
Properly built and calibrated valve bodies are very labor intensive and require some custom built, often proprietary parts. They're not cheap, but work a lot better than just a simple shift kit.

I'm a bit biased when it comes to valve bodies, but I can also recommend Dave Goerend's stuff. He is a very smart guy and also builds top shelf stuff.
 

Registered
Joined
307 Posts
Superior "The 48 RE kit"

I installed the K48RE kit in my 2007. I found that step #3, the .055" hole drilled through the valve body, caused too harsh of a 1-2 shift and the 3-4 shift felt like it was going to brake the trans case. The 2-3 would take too long to release the 2nd gear band when it was in 3rd causing the rear end to clunk under light throttle. I drilled the hole out to .057" and installed a .056" cotter pin. The cotter pin was a snug fit. Rounded head of pin is in the bore and clears the valve head. Make sure you fold the ends down on the outside of the valve body casing tight to restrict movement of the cotter pin. Cotter pin available at Hardware store. The cotter pin allows a very small loss of fluid when the fluid is over 150*f, and almost no loss of fluid out the hole when the fluid is cold. Shifts are firm when hot and normally slushy when cold. In step #5 it talks about the check balls. Some vb have 5 .250" check balls and some vb have 6 .250 check balls. If your valve body has 6, install them all back where they came from. The 6th ball fits in the oval passage top middle of pic. If your vb only had 5 .250" check balls, don't worry about the #6 check ball. Drill all holes in plate from the check ball side to keep burrs from damaging the check balls. Always check for burrs after drilling.
In step #8 think very carefully about the future mods of your trans. You can't un-drill a hole. If a triple disk tc is in your future, or you have had no issues with tc lockup, do not drill hole "C". If the check ball is missing from the passage under hole "A" do not drill out hole "A". This is the rear band engagement passage. No check ball = harsh engagement (snow plow prep vb). Drilling out the passage makes it worse. Do not forget the steel check ball in step #10.
Steps 13, REPLACE accumulator with new aluminum replacement, Sonnax #22841-04K and front band servo with Sonnax #22301B-01K super servo and #22827-01 servo piston cover kit. Use all seals and rings that come with the accumulator and servo, Do not use the rings from the shift kit. Don't forget to install the "O" ring in the new servo cover. Install springs from shift kit as directed. A new 3-4 accumulator spring will help the up shift with out the harsh bang. Sonnax #12861-01.
Front band strut #22825-01 is needed. Make sure hump is away from band.
I also installed a BD Diesel gov solenoid and sensor kit with their pan. Installed a slip in kevlar front band. Trans is shifting firm but not harsh. Matches up well with the new BBI injectors and Banks economind tuner.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 59turbo

Registered
Joined
846 Posts
I installed the K48RE kit in my 2007. I found that step #3, the .055" hole drilled through the valve body, caused too harsh of a 1-2 shift and the 3-4 shift felt like it was going to brake the trans case. The 2-3 would take too long to release the 2nd gear band when it was in 3rd causing the rear end to clunk under light throttle. I drilled the hole out to .057" and installed a .056" cotter pin. The cotter pin was a snug fit. Rounded head of pin is in the bore and clears the valve head. Make sure you fold the ends down on the outside of the valve body casing tight to restrict movement of the cotter pin. Cotter pin available at Hardware store. The cotter pin allows a very small loss of fluid when the fluid is over 150*f, and almost no loss of fluid out the hole when the fluid is cold. Shifts are firm when hot and normally slushy when cold. In step #5 it talks about the check balls. Some vb have 5 .250" check balls and some vb have 6 .250 check balls. If your valve body has 6, install them all back where they came from. The 6th ball fits in the oval passage top middle of pic. If your vb only had 5 .250" check balls, don't worry about the #6 check ball. Drill all holes in plate from the check ball side to keep burrs from damaging the check balls. Always check for burrs after drilling.
In step #8 think very carefully about the future mods of your trans. You can't un-drill a hole. If a triple disk tc is in your future, or you have had no issues with tc lockup, do not drill hole "C". If the check ball is missing from the passage under hole "A" do not drill out hole "A". This is the rear band engagement passage. No check ball = harsh engagement (snow plow prep vb). Drilling out the passage makes it worse. Do not forget the steel check ball in step #10.
Steps 13, REPLACE accumulator with new aluminum replacement, Sonnax #22841-04K and front band servo with Sonnax #22301B-01K super servo and #22827-01 servo piston cover kit. Use all seals and rings that come with the accumulator and servo, Do not use the rings from the shift kit. Don't forget to install the "O" ring in the new servo cover. Install springs from shift kit as directed. A new 3-4 accumulator spring will help the up shift with out the harsh bang. Sonnax #12861-01.
Front band strut #22825-01 is needed. Make sure hump is away from band.
I also installed a BD Diesel gov solenoid and sensor kit with their pan. Installed a slip in kevlar front band. Trans is shifting firm but not harsh. Matches up well with the new BBI injectors and Banks economind tuner.
Great write up but I don鈥檛 understand the use of the sonnax super servo and the sonnax servo cover, you can鈥檛 use both right or am I misunderstanding what you鈥檙e saying? Also if you are using the super servo, how is the 2/3 upshift and downshift? I had tried a super servo and had a harsh 2/3 shift but the rest of trans and valvebody was stock. Btw I still have the harsh 2/3 shifting with the stock servo too.
On edit, this isn鈥檛 about the truck in my sig.
 

Registered
Joined
307 Posts
The new servo cover has an O ring that seals the shaft of the servo that actuates the front band. The new cover reduces leakage and helps the servo pull back releasing the front band. I have a soft 1-2 and 2-3 when the fluid is cold. Shifts are firm above 150*f trans temp. One possible cause of the harsh 2-3 shift is the servo cover leaking too much. Front band may be adjusted too tight. I also would install the Borg Warner gov valve and the redesigned pressure temp sensor or the BD Diesel kit #1060605.
 

Registered
Joined
1,711 Posts
I installed the K48RE kit in my 2007. I found that step #3, the .055" hole drilled through the valve body, caused too harsh of a 1-2 shift and the 3-4 shift felt like it was going to brake the trans case. The 2-3 would take too long to release the 2nd gear band when it was in 3rd causing the rear end to clunk under light throttle. I drilled the hole out to .057" and installed a .056" cotter pin. The cotter pin was a snug fit. Rounded head of pin is in the bore and clears the valve head. Make sure you fold the ends down on the outside of the valve body casing tight to restrict movement of the cotter pin. Cotter pin available at Hardware store. The cotter pin allows a very small loss of fluid when the fluid is over 150*f, and almost no loss of fluid out the hole when the fluid is cold. Shifts are firm when hot and normally slushy when cold. In step #5 it talks about the check balls. Some vb have 5 .250" check balls and some vb have 6 .250 check balls. If your valve body has 6, install them all back where they came from. The 6th ball fits in the oval passage top middle of pic. If your vb only had 5 .250" check balls, don't worry about the #6 check ball. Drill all holes in plate from the check ball side to keep burrs from damaging the check balls. Always check for burrs after drilling.
In step #8 think very carefully about the future mods of your trans. You can't un-drill a hole. If a triple disk tc is in your future, or you have had no issues with tc lockup, do not drill hole "C". If the check ball is missing from the passage under hole "A" do not drill out hole "A". This is the rear band engagement passage. No check ball = harsh engagement (snow plow prep vb). Drilling out the passage makes it worse. Do not forget the steel check ball in step #10.
Steps 13, REPLACE accumulator with new aluminum replacement, Sonnax #22841-04K and front band servo with Sonnax #22301B-01K super servo and #22827-01 servo piston cover kit. Use all seals and rings that come with the accumulator and servo, Do not use the rings from the shift kit. Don't forget to install the "O" ring in the new servo cover. Install springs from shift kit as directed. A new 3-4 accumulator spring will help the up shift with out the harsh bang. Sonnax #12861-01.
Front band strut #22825-01 is needed. Make sure hump is away from band.
I also installed a BD Diesel gov solenoid and sensor kit with their pan. Installed a slip in kevlar front band. Trans is shifting firm but not harsh. Matches up well with the new BBI injectors and Banks economind tuner.
Yeah, this kit is not Superior's best effort.

I would not drill the balance hole for the switch valve beyond .055", and definitely do not drill the hole in the forward balance passage in the PR valve train. Not a good plan. You also should not need to enlarge any shuttle ball holes...not necessary. If you stay with a stock separator plate, you cannot turn the pressure up very high before you start to get an unpleasant 2-3 upshift. The 2-3 shift orifice is fairly large in the OEM plate.
 

Registered
Joined
1,049 Posts
Hmmm, maybe you made some mistakes installing your kit.ive had my superior kit in my 05 for 13years now with not a single issue. any options the kit gives you,make sure you always choose the least aggressive choice unless you are only doing competitive racing with no street use.and always run your pressures from the appropriate port. picking the least aggressive picks all my pressures increased at least 50% over the stock pressures with no harsh shifting. in the end i went with the GM solenoid with adaptor manifold.
 

Registered
Joined
1,711 Posts
If you're going to "shift kit" a 48RE, I highly recommend using the late ('98-'02) 47RE kit from Superior instead of the 48RE kit. You'll get the two most important components of a shift kit (manual valve and PR spring) in the 47RE kit, plus it will give you the governor pressure relief valve (built into the shuttle valve), so your transducer will never see the increased line pressure, virtually eliminating transducer blow out. There is a mod to the limit valve that needs to be done on the late 48RE's (w/TTVA), but it's a very simple mod. If anyone is ever at this point, PM me and I'll walk you through it. Also, as I said before, absolutely DO NOT open the switch valve balance hole to .093" as they suggest. Drill it to .055" and call it a day. Don't open any shuttle ball holes, and whatever you do, DO NOT drill any holes in any of the PR balance circuits!
 

Registered
Joined
3 Posts
great information
 

Registered
Joined
157 Posts
^^ This...

Everything went pretty smooth.. Installed the superior shift kit, did the PACT Power Wedge, Sonnax 2nd gear Super Servo, HD Band Strut, and intermediate server, already did the solenoid awhile ago due to shutter shift 1-2.. Adjusted the bands, 72in lbs, 2 turns back...

Everything seems good except 2-3.. Shift are firm/crisp, but 2-3 almost feels like down shift for a second, then into 3rd, like it drags, tosses your forward, then into 3rd... not fun.. Did the pressure adjustment and backed it all the way off because of the blue spring install...

Whats the trick for fixing 2nd - 3rd??
Just to review again the shift 48 re shift kit and the TCS kit: so the transmission guy followed the kit instructions so first I had the surging to 3000 rpm so it had to open it again to change the spring.Then no more surging but way to much pressure.

So open it again to change the springs trying to lower the pressure. Before it was great without the camper but with the camper too much pressure shifting way to violent. Now with lower pressure around 73-75 lbs If I remember well.

is just perfect fast and crisp with the camper but I have the same downshift for a second or two, going up to second gear ( I'M not sure I think is the second not the third) . Is there any cure?

this is the tcs kit I was using
Buy A518, A618, 47RE, 48RE Combo Kit Online | TCS Performance Products
incognito
 

Attachments

Registered
Joined
85 Posts
I just had this kit installed in my 07, it was hanging up in Park. I only installed the Superior K48RE kit, no other goodies. Other than my 3-4 shift being a little more firm than the other shifts, it works like I expected it to. And the guy that installed it said he'd put a stock separator plate back in it to make the 3-4 shift feel like the other shifts.
 

Registered
Joined
1,711 Posts
I just had this kit installed in my 07, it was hanging up in Park. I only installed the Superior K48RE kit, no other goodies. Other than my 3-4 shift being a little more firm than the other shifts, it works like I expected it to. And the guy that installed it said he'd put a stock separator plate back in it to make the 3-4 shift feel like the other shifts.
If you only installed the Superior kit, then you still have stock plates in there. The Superior kit does not replace the stock plates, which is one of its drawbacks, honestly. Their manual valve is second to none, and I use a TON of them, but the rest of that 48RE kit leaves bit to be desired, in my opinion.
 

Registered
Joined
85 Posts
Sorry, I meant a stock separator plate that hadn't been drilled. Apparently part of the installation of the kit directs you drill a new hole or enlarge an existing hole in your stock separator plate. I'm on the fence about changing it back. It's not that noticeable unless you're heavy on the throttle.
 
81 - 95 of 95 Posts
Top