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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all. First post here so a little background. I bought an 06 qcsb 4x4 for my wife. It has 160k on it. And just recently added an edge evolution cs2. We have had quite a few issues with it. The newest is the trans was starting out in second gear. So i jumped into my first auto trans repair. Not being one to under do things, and knowing we would be towing our new 5th wheel with it, i ordered everything i could get to without pulling the trans.

Bd diesel pressure transducer
Transgo shift kit
Suncoast diesel 2000 shift solenoid
Suncoast governor pressure solenoid
Suncoast billet strut and anchor kit
Suncoast super servo
Suncoast billet band lever
Suncoast accumulator piston
Gorend deep pan
New filter
Inspected both bands(plenty of material on both)
Adjusted both bands per manual

Install wise everything went smoothly. And worked great when i was done for five months or so. Now on my birthday a few weeks ago. We were driving out of our neighborhood, about a mile of roughish dirt road. I usually leave it in manual 2 locked heading out. We were heading up this last steep hill and the trans kicked down into 1st, without any prompting to do so, and would not go back into second. It would go into third but not unless i lifted completely after about 20mph. It still goes through 3rd and 4th and locks up in both at appropriate speeds and demand. It has persisted and im about ready to throw this truck off a cliff. Mind you i have a 2000 qclb 4x4 cummins 5speed with 350k on it. I love that truck but it is my work truck with a 1000lbs ARE work camper on it. So we just bought a 5th wheel to tow with my wifes 06 and now cant. The scenario sounds a little different than other threads ive seen so dont shoot me if its been covered. It is not throwing a code. Any ideas what im getting into on this. I hope its something simple.

Thanks in advance.
 

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No codes could be a transducer/governor solenoid. Forget that they are almost new, that can literally mean nothing.

Also, if you installed the billet second gear servo, and it seems as though you did based off your upgrade list, that could be causing your issue. Suncoast claims to have designed their second gear servo to work correctly and allow second gear release quickly like OEM, however, I cant back that claim up or down. The second gear release not being the issue, but a broken spring or other problem with the servo may be causing the issue.

Also, check the band lever, anchor and strut. Any one of those not in correct order will cause a second gear issue.

The band may have also broke. If it's the stock one, I believe they are prone to breaking from higher apply pressures.

Sounds like you will need to drop the pan one way or another.
And maybe the valve body.

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You might also look to the TransGo kit. They are not the best kit choice for the diesel.

Will it start out in first with it manually in first?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No codes could be a transducer/governor solenoid. Forget that they are almost new, that can literally mean nothing.

Also, if you installed the billet second gear servo, and it seems as though you did based off your upgrade list, that could be causing your issue. Suncoast claims to have designed their second gear servo to work correctly and allow second gear release quickly like OEM, however, I cant back that claim up or down. The second gear release not being the issue, but a broken spring or other problem with the servo may be causing the issue.

Also, check the band lever, anchor and strut. Any one of those not in correct order will cause a second gear issue.

The band may have also broke. If it's the stock one, I believe they are prone to breaking from higher apply pressures.

Sounds like you will need to drop the pan one way or another.
And maybe the valve body.

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Thx man. I saw somewhere there is a procedure to unplug the harness and see if you can manually shift from first to second. That eliminates the electrics if I understood it correctly. If it goes to second with that procedure then i would just order some electronics before i pop the cover right? Cant find that thread again though anyone know the exact way to test that?
 

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With it manually shifting to first and it starting in first I’d suspect the valve body electronics.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This is info from another thread on this forum i believe


“If its a gov pressure solenoid its more likely to stick open causing 2nd or 3rd gear starts, if its a transducer or speed sensor failure, the ecm cannot compute a reading to open the gov pressure solenoid and it will stay in 1st and never shift.
If it stays in 1st, winds way out then grabs 3rd, then its a sure sign that you have a 2nd gear band failure, even if you adjust it in and it comes back, it will only be a short lived fix. To make sure that 2nd gear is at fault, you can unplug your 8pin connector, which will open the gov circuit completely. Now start the truck in neutral and quickly yank the shifter from Neutral to Manual 1st. Now accelerate to 2000rpm and manually shift to 2nd gear, this eliminates all electronic control and if it does not manually shift to 2nd gear, you know its a mechanical failure. Lavon”
 

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The info from Lavon is correct...

You have an intermediate band problem, whether it be the band itself, the servo, or the strut fell off, or whatever...it is not engaging, or if it is, not well enough to hold the direct drum stationary. I'd pull the pan and have a look...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Alrighty. So after some crazy work week i was able to test the manual shifting. What i found was that it didnt shift to second when i shifted to 2. But it definitely felt like it shifted to second when i shifted to drive. I could repeat this on command. Shift to neutral then one then drive. And the truck would start in first then shift to second.

Any thoughts before i pull the pan?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Also found a significant leak out the inspection cover at the bell housing. Trans was 3quarts low. Been since the vb rebuild it has about 3k miles on it. I filled it back up before i tested.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well. I found the culprit

Broke the intermediate band. I actually have a billet one that came with the anchor and strut kit i got from suncoast. But a cant pull the trans to put it in right now. Is there a band that can be put in with the trans in the truck?
 

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Slip in band will go in.

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I believe Borg Warner and red clutches make a good slip in band.

Any of them will work. You will have to pull the trans at some point and put in a real band. A slip in band is going to eventually snap from the pressure. You could try a lower ratio lever to help your band live longer. Might affect your 2-3 shift.

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Actually, the slip in bands are generally built heavier than the BW OE units. I have better luck with the slip in bands than anything. The red lined bands on a mostyl solid band is pretty beefy.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok i ordered a red eagle slip in from CTpowertrain.

Link if anyone is interested
https://www.ctpowertrain.com/a-727-518-618-48re-slip-in-red-eagle-front-flex-band-1962-on-snap-in/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMImPel_L2j5AIVAhx9Ch30IA89EAQYAyABEgJI5_D_BwE

Also got a new vb electronics harness as i must have tweaked the connector and cracked it. I have some valvoline atf+4 on the way to make sure i have enough for the refill. Should have it back up and running this weekend. These 80+ hour work weeks got me beat.
 

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You can make a slip-in out of any band, really. I've made several over the years out of the Raybestos Pro Series bands. You just have to grind down one anchor, and then very carefully reweld it (without overheating the friction material in the process). The only real issue is to make sure to run the modified end of the band on the ANCHOR side, so you don't have any issues with the strut falling off.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
You can make a slip-in out of any band, really. I've made several over the years out of the Raybestos Pro Series bands. You just have to grind down one anchor, and then very carefully reweld it (without overheating the friction material in the process). The only real issue is to make sure to run the modified end of the band on the ANCHOR side, so you don't have any issues with the strut falling off.


Thx for the tip man
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Got it in and back up and running. Didnt have 1st gear when i first test drove it. But i guess it was in limp mode because there was a dozen or so trans codes in the computer. I had turned the key to the on position with the nss and 8pin connector disconnected. I readjusted both bands while i was in there and everything seems to be shifting fine. We will be pulling the trailer in two weeks. We will see how it does.

For what its worth. I used a cooper 12guage wire to fish the band around the drum. It helped out tremendously. I also replaced the vb harness as i had cracked the tab on my previous work and figured i would replace it while i had it apart again.

Thanks for all the help yall. I now know way more about automatics than i ever wanted. Haha
 
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