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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright so first off ive got a 90 4x4 regular cab long bed 3/4 ton cummins. Its got the 727 auto. I know its a first gen but I need help on a second gen transmission. Im looking to put a 47rh in it. Ive done some research and come up with a few things along with the obvious.

Ill need to shorten the rear driveshaft which ive done before no problem. The front will need to be lengthened or more properly be built, any advice on places to have them built would be helpful. Ive heard the 205 bolts to the 47rh but a seal gets in the way of them mating properly. Any more info on that as well? Ill have switches for the od and lock up. Lockup switch run through the brake switch incase of sudden stops. Im not sure what to do about the converter either, if someone could point me in the right direction there id be great full. Then the trans brace needs move and I believe I can do that. Ive heard the shifter works with the trans. Ive got plans to make around 400 horse in the long run since the ve pumps are kinda capped at 500. So idunno about internals and everything either. I plan on getting a used on and rebuilding it so any direction there would help as well. Also anything ive missed.

I plan on doing all this next winter, and I hope to just start gathering parts slowly and get it done without it taking a month so I wanna figure most of it out ahead of time
 

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Well I dont know if theres any issues bolting your t-fer case. I heard it mates up just fine, might have input shaft issues.
As far as the trans is concerned, you'll need the adapter plate, flex plate, associated bolts, converter, trans, shift linkage, harness, heat exchanger and trans cooler.
While the trans is out of the truck I would upgrade it.
If your hell bent on an auto thats fine but a NV4500 conversion is leaps and bounds easier with less operating issues than an auto.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well I dont know if theres any issues bolting your t-fer case. I heard it mates up just fine, might have input shaft issues.
As far as the trans is concerned, you'll need the adapter plate, flex plate, associated bolts, converter, trans, shift linkage, harness, heat exchanger and trans cooler.
While the trans is out of the truck I would upgrade it.
If your hell bent on an auto thats fine but a NV4500 conversion is leaps and bounds easier with less operating issues than an auto.
I heard both that a seal and spline count is both an issue and then heard its only a seal. Just trying to get my ducks in a line. I plan on running an aux cooler this summer anyways so that's no big deal. Is an adapter plate nessecary? Ifigured it bolted strait up just a flex plate and converter. I want a manual but the cost seems to be more and then it's still got issues. I can get the two plugs its got and that's easy to wire since its mostly hydrolic. Also I think there's still issues as far as drive shafts in the 4500 swap. Plus a clutch and all the pedal stuff
 

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You need to remove the rear seal from the transmission as the coupling on the transfer case is larger. Just use RTV to seal the joining surfaces. You will need to use the shift arm off the 727 as the 47RH is clocked different. The cross member, just slide back and re drill. You need the 2nd gen adapter and starter. The spline counts are the same auto to auto and manual to manual. The flex plates are the same, however the 2nd gen is a slightly thicker updated version. BUT! If you planning on 400hp +, a billet flex plate would be much better. There are various ways to control OD and lock up. The problem with just switches is remembering to switch them.
 

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Perhaps these links can help.

Look here PATC 46RE 47RE 48RE Transmissions, Performance Transmission A518, 518
PATC 727 to 518 Deluxe Conversion Kit

for this.
PATC 727 to 518 Deluxe Conversion Kit

"#727518DK. This is the fully electronic no vacuum needed deluxe kit for the 727 to 518 swap. Made for diesels without vacuum and big cam gas motors with low vacuum. Comes with two governor speed sensors, throttle position sensor, electronic control unit, carburetor bracket and a shift solenoid pigtail. It is 80% pre-wired. What this kit does is makes a 518 transmission shift without a computer. Can be made for a non-lock-up torque converter for $18.00 less. Cost $325.00"

It is close to the bottom of the page. You want the more expensive one as diesels do not generate their own vacuum. I would call them before ordering just because that is a lot of money if you get the wrong part.

If you look on Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market for a 1994 or 1995 2500 or 3500 diesel that will be the years that had the 47RH transmission. It may be cheaper to buy a built transmission compared to buying a core transmission and then getting it built up.


Dodge A518/618 47/48 RH/RE "BadBoy" for CUMMINS

This is for a 47RE however, most of the recommendations would apply to the 46RH also.
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/9...uto-tranny-upgrades-increased-hp-engines.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You need to remove the rear seal from the transmission as the coupling on the transfer case is larger. Just use RTV to seal the joining surfaces. You will need to use the shift arm off the 727 as the 47RH is clocked different. The cross member, just slide back and re drill. You need the 2nd gen adapter and starter. The spline counts are the same auto to auto and manual to manual. The flex plates are the same, however the 2nd gen is a slightly thicker updated version. BUT! If you planning on 400hp +, a billet flex plate would be much better. There are various ways to control OD and lock up. The problem with just switches is remembering to switch them.
Right on, thats what I was looking for on the tcase. And you say I need the shift arm off the 727? Does it bolt right to the 47rh? And then the 2nd gen bell housing. Also I'll look into the billet flex plate. I'll need one for a 2nd gen? And I mostly stay in town so out on the high way I should remember I have an over drive and lock up. If it gets to be a hassle I'll check into pressure sensors. I've seen Some people use like gm a/c pressure sensors to control over drive

Also county hick, I'm looking into the 47rh which is hydraulic so I'm not sure I need a conversion like that. Unless I'm not understanding.
 

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Well I dont know if theres any issues bolting your t-fer case. I heard it mates up just fine, might have input shaft issues.
As far as the trans is concerned, you'll need the adapter plate, flex plate, associated bolts, converter, trans, shift linkage, harness, heat exchanger and trans cooler.
While the trans is out of the truck I would upgrade it.
If your hell bent on an auto thats fine but a NV4500 conversion is leaps and bounds easier with less operating issues than an auto.
Trying to get everyone here to swap to a 4500 are ya??
:rof
 

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Right on, thats what I was looking for on the tcase. And you say I need the shift arm off the 727? Does it bolt right to the 47rh? And then the 2nd gen bell housing. Also I'll look into the billet flex plate. I'll need one for a 2nd gen? And I mostly stay in town so out on the high way I should remember I have an over drive and lock up. If it gets to be a hassle I'll check into pressure sensors. I've seen Some people use like gm a/c pressure sensors to control over drive

Also county hick, I'm looking into the 47rh which is hydraulic so I'm not sure I need a conversion like that. Unless I'm not understanding.
The shift lever bolts/clamps right on. The A518 and 47RH are essentially 727's with options. The only reason you have to have the 2nd gen adapter plate is to accommodate the longer lock up converter. 1st gen and 2nd gen flex plates are the same. They just "new and improved" them as the went along.

Trying to get everyone here to swap to a 4500 are ya??
:rof
I'd like to. Just no parts around here and shipping bites.
 

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There is absolutelly no excuse for not purchasing the PATC conversion kit for less than $100.00 This gives you everything needed for reasonable operation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Alright so ive check, car-part.com has several 47rh for the 94 for not too much. I work in a shop and hope to get ahold of our junkyard we do lot's of business with and get one for cheap. It looks like id be a fool to not rebuild it. So I got to looking, sun coast sells this kit with what sounds like a good set up Sun Coast Diesel Transmissions - Dodge 47RH "M3GA"-3 Alto Transmission Kit 1994-1995 | Catalog Products | Sun Coast Diesel Transmissions this kit with the billet input shaft, flex plate, and triple disc converter is 3722 before tax and probably cores so figure 4k. The rebuild kit sounds good, and ive heard alot about sun coast.
Theres also this kit, which is less in depth, by revmax 47RH 450-550 HP Combo Rebuild Kit its comes with a triple disc converter, flexplate, and input. But instead of just a shift kit it requires a valve body core, which I won't have. Its 3352 but since I wont have a converter (im gonna hunt for acheap one as a core if I can) or a valve body itll be over 4k as well.
Im gonna look more into these and any opions would be nice, or other good companys around 4k or less for all that. Im hoping to have the bell housing with the junkyard trans so I shouldnt have to worry there. A new 2nd gen starter is around 200 so thats not too big a deal. Now im mosty worried about the front driveshaft. The linkage will probably have to be solved once its all In. And does any one know if I actually need the heat exchanger? I was thinking all it did was warm the trans faster. And if I dont need it can I add it later?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
There is absolutelly no excuse for not purchasing the PATC conversion kit for less than $100.00 This gives you everything needed for reasonable operation.
Im really confused about this? What exactly is the patc conversion?
 

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PATC 727 to 518 Deluxe Conversion Kit
this is a pressure switch setup. As I recall it can be calibrated easilly to give good results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
PATC 727 to 518 Deluxe Conversion Kit
this is a pressure switch setup. As I recall it can be calibrated easilly to give good results.
Alright, for some reason it was going way over my head. I was checking on the site with my phone and wasn't seeing it.
 

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I'm in the process of doing to same except I'm 2wd and have the motor swapped into a car. The 2nd gen adapter plate is 1 1/8" longer so figure how your d shafts will fit. I ended up moving my motor foward some to split the difference. flex plates were excatly the same (I upgraded). You need to swap over the tv cable bell crank as it is clocked differently. Your trans to engine plate bolts will work as will convertor bolts. Patc also has the 3 wire connector you'll need....can't think of anything else that hasn't been covered
 

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Oh ya keep the heat exchanger....its supposed to cool really well
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'm in the process of doing to same except I'm 2wd and have the motor swapped into a car. The 2nd gen adapter plate is 1 1/8" longer so figure how your d shafts will fit. I ended up moving my motor foward some to split the difference. flex plates were excatly the same (I upgraded). You need to swap over the tv cable bell crank as it is clocked differently. Your trans to engine plate bolts will work as will convertor bolts. Patc also has the 3 wire connector you'll need....can't think of anything else that hasn't been covered
Alright I just wasnt sure if the heat exchanger cooled too. And im looking towards a billet flexplate. And im gonna look into the bd cooler set up for under the bed. And also that patc conversion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So got to thinking, the 518 front driveshaft should work with my swap as the whole 47rh trans is only about 2" longer than the 518 because of the bellhousing. Then a 518 rear driveshaft to cut down a little so it wont have to be rebalanced. This is all theory and if anyone feels like measuring theyre front and rear drive shaft from a truck with the 518 id appreciate it.
 

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So got to thinking, the 518 front driveshaft should work with my swap as the whole 47rh trans is only about 2" longer than the 518 because of the bellhousing. Then a 518 rear driveshaft to cut down a little so it wont have to be rebalanced. This is all theory and if anyone feels like measuring theyre front and rear drive shaft from a truck with the 518 id appreciate it.
Trying to do it that way has a problem. The front shaft has the carrier bearing on it. The carrier bearing mount is on a frame crossmember. I dought you want to move that back. To much hassle.

Leave the rear drive shaft alone. Shorten the front as needed.
 

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I'm currently doing this swap, and have everything for it. my question is the TV/Kick down lever on the trans, I noticed it goes the opposite direction as the 46RH, Does the kick-down cable need to be reversed so it pushes lever towards front of trans??
 
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