So you're saying that wheels from a 2007 will fit my 90 W250 without any issues? Thanks
In a way, yes.
A few things to consider:
1. Spacers/Adapters are needed. 1.5" thick ones work well, as that's what I am running. Some guys have ran 2" ones though...
2. I upgraded to 9/16" studs, Dorman PN 610-283. These are longer and stronger. They are long enough to work with the 1.5" spacers/adapters needed. (see note #4.) I have not checked to see if the stock 1/2" studs/nuts have adequate thread engagement to safely support the spacer/adapter and everything else. 9/16" studs can be had cheap, I bought mine off fleabay this last time, for less than $55 for 30 of them. I bought the other two at my local parts store, as they are about $3-4 A PIECE from parts stores. These studs came stock on Chevy/GMC K-30's, SRW, 77-87 (88-91 on V-30 models).
3. Running spacers, most come with crappy lug nuts. I upgraded to quality 9/16" thread, 3/4" head hex lug nuts. They fit down the bores of the spacers/adapters, when upgraded to 9/16" studs. The ones that came with the spacer/adapters were too big to use almost any kind of socket when trying to fit them in the bores, and were just plain junk. I also used 2nd gen lug nuts to mount the wheel to the spacer/adapter, as they have a nice big shoulder for the hub cap to grab onto.
4. If one chooses to upgrade to 9/16" studs and run 1.5" spacers/adapters, the rear studs will be 1/8" too long. I cut off the excess material and used them without an issue. If the studs are not cut down, they will protrude from the spacer/adapter and the wheel will hit them, and the wheel will not fully seat against the spacer/adapter. I originally used some washers, but they were slightly different in thickness, and believe it or not, it caused vibration.
5. If one upgrades to 9/16" studs, PRESS THEM IN!!! Otherwise they more than likely won't fully seat in the hubs, and alot of tire removal to re-torque the spacer/adapter to the hub will be needed. I pressed mine in, torqued the spacer/adapter to hub lug nuts to 125lb-ft. I ran the truck for about 50 miles, and did a re-torque. None moved. So I removed the nuts and used RED LocTite on the threads, and torqued them back to 125lb-ft. Haven't had an issue yet.
6. Since one is removing the hubs to install 9/16" studs, might as well service your wheel bearings and inspect your brakes.
All in all I had a few more hundred bucks in the whole deal to mount 3rd gen 17's on my truck. Spacer/adapters aren't cheap, and by the time you factor in 32 9/16" studs, two sets of 32 lug nuts, 9/16"x3/4"(inner) and 9/16"x15/16(outer), four wheel seals, grease, new rear spindle lock nuts (if you are still running the crappy single nut with wedge[upgrade to the inner/center lock ring/outer nut combo as on the front, they are the same size]) I bet I had another $300-400 in it. I have about $1000 in mine by the time it's all said and done (wheels and tires, plus all the above parts).
