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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I changed my rear wheel cylinders out yesterday since I had the day off for school. Since I had the camera on hand I snapped some shots to let other members see how easy it is.
I bet there are a few people that have read about these and thought, "that might be too hard for me" when in fact it couldn't be farther from the truth.

You will need atleast the following:
  • 10 mm tubing wrench
  • brake tool
  • BFH and LFH (big F#[email protected] hammer and its smaller counterpart)
  • slip pliers
  • 3/8" ratchet with 1/2" socket and 3" ext.
Here they are (angelic music playing softly as I stare at them) Napa 37337 one tone wheel cylinders. They cost 8.97 a piece and like a fine Italian sports car, "Made in Italy"





First, remove wheel, this was easy,but I don't live in the rust belt



Second, remove drum



Third, you only have to remove the forward spring to get the wheel cylinder out



I didn't get a picture of the removal of the wheel cylinder, pretty easy two 1/2" bolts and she comes right out.

Fourth, compare the two and they are dimensional close





Lastly, reinstall and bleed the system.

Note: your brake warning light may come on after the job is done ie. after the final bleed ( do not let the system go dry or it is a biotch to get the air out of the ABS unit, read: trip to dealer). If the light comes on, unhook both batteries for 10 minutes and problem solved. Pull out into the street and while backing up apply the brakes quit and hard to re-adjust the rear shoes. Enjoy new found braking confidence.
 

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Yes, many of the members have done this and have all said it works great.
 
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Reactions: hammtallon

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Very well done!!!
I am going to do mine today,
Thank you for the great pictures,
Makes it so easy for a dummy like me.
 

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worked great on mine. first couple times i drove it after i had to retrain my foot not to press so hard. Didn't lock up but man it stopped alot faster and easier. They are a bigger bore cylinder so a brake out of adjustment shows on the pedal travel faster too.
 
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Reactions: rollinsmoke05

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Will this help make the rear brakes grab more so the front disk's don't take all the abuse of stopping??
My pedal seems to be about half way to the floor before braking occurs and seems the front's are doing most of the work.:confused013:
 

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Will this help make the rear brakes grab more so the front disk's don't take all the abuse of stopping??
My pedal seems to be about half way to the floor before braking occurs and seems the front's are doing most of the work.:confused013:
yep, yer changing out 24mm bore cylinders for a 30mm bore. the one tons are 27 mm i believe i read. pedal being low is probably just the rears needing adjustment. The auto adjusters on the rear are about useless, I adjust mine when i change oil. sometimes they are fine sometimes i find one that is off quite abit. I cannot figure the adjusters out had em off 20 times trying to see why and they should work!
 
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Reactions: just for fun

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I am putting this on the list. I will be removing rims soon to polish them so it will be a good time to change out the wheel cylinders.

I had an 1987 Ford Bronco that the back brakes were always out of adjustment, found myself under the truck often re-adjusting them what a pain in the a$$..

Thanks for the reply..
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Yes this is an ideal upgrade for 3/4 tons, in my book it is at the top of the list. Also, if you wanted to know these are spec'd out for 1 ton chebby's. I love Dodges but I'm realizing they shortcut all over on these trucks, damn bean counters!
The first thing I noticed is that the front end does not want to "dive" under moderate to hard braking.
As for auto adjusters, when I did shoes on the rear I made sure I hit the threads on the auto adjuster with a wire wheel and applied a small amount of marine grade moly lube on the threads.
 
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