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Discussion Starter #1
I found a 36' triple axle enclosed car trailer and was wondering if I would run into any issues pulling it with my 2011 Ram 2500. The heaviest load I've pulled with my 25' gooseneck is around 10k lbs and I'm not expecting on going much over that. But I'm not certain on the laws.
 

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Well, looks like your GVWR is 9600 and your GCWR is either 19000 lb or 20000 lb depending on your gearing. I can't be certain, but it looks like the 3-axle trailer has 5-lug wheels, so likely 5000 lb axles. So assuming that's a 15000 lb gross trailer, your total GCWR is less than 26000 lb... so no worries about running into needing a Class A non-comm or CDL, regardless of state, regardless of exclusions and restrictions, generally speaking. I found a table that shows the empty weight of your truck to be around 7300 lbs. So... were the trailer loaded to more than 12000 lbs or so, however, you'd be close to legally overloading your truck according to its sticker, but I won't start one of those discussions.

If those are 8-lug, 7000 lb axles, your empty GCWR will be more than 26,000 lb, and some states, maybe not ND -- I just don't know -- will require their residents to have a Class A to drive the combo empty. Once the GCWR -- empty! -- exceeds 26000 lb, you need to figure out exactly what the requirements for your state are. There are often exemptions for noncommercial, camper, private use, etc. In Texas, for example, I'd need a noncomm Class A to tow an empty trailer behind my empty truck if the trailer's gross sticker exceeds 12,000 lb regardless of what I do with it unless it's on my ranch or farm.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Truck currently has 3.42 gears and 35" tires. I've been thinking about going with a 3.73 or 4.10s in the future. Also have air helper bags on the rear axle. Been looking for an enclosed car trailer and found that one for a decent price. It's a 93 model and their asking 7700 for it. Could sale my current 25' gooseneck to help offset the cost.
Here's my current trailer when I had the 37s

With it being a deck over with a steep dovetail it makes loading cars quite difficult
 

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Well, looks like your GVWR is 9600 and your GCWR is either 19000 lb or 20000 lb depending on your gearing. I can't be certain, but it looks like the 3-axle trailer has 5-lug wheels, so likely 5000 lb axles. So assuming that's a 15000 lb gross trailer, your total GCWR is less than 26000 lb... so no worries about running into needing a Class A non-comm or CDL, regardless of state, regardless of exclusions and restrictions, generally speaking. I found a table that shows the empty weight of your truck to be around 7300 lbs. So... were the trailer loaded to more than 12000 lbs or so, however, you'd be close to legally overloading your truck according to its sticker, but I won't start one of those discussions.

If those are 8-lug, 7000 lb axles, your empty GCWR will be more than 26,000 lb, and some states, maybe not ND -- I just don't know -- will require their residents to have a Class A to drive the combo empty. Once the GCWR -- empty! -- exceeds 26000 lb, you need to figure out exactly what the requirements for your state are. There are often exemptions for noncommercial, camper, private use, etc. In Texas, for example, I'd need a noncomm Class A to tow an empty trailer behind my empty truck if the trailer's gross sticker exceeds 12,000 lb regardless of what I do with it unless it's on my ranch or farm.
Not to hijack... In Commifornia, ANY utility/flatbed/enclosed trailer at 10000 GVWR or more, even if being towed empty, you're required to have a Commercial (class A ) driver license. RV trailers (5th and TT) are the exception, but still have certain requirements.
 

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Truck currently has 3.42 gears and 35" tires. I've been thinking about going with a 3.73 or 4.10s in the future. Also have air helper bags on the rear axle. Been looking for an enclosed car trailer and found that one for a decent price. It's a 93 model and their asking 7700 for it. Could sale my current 25' gooseneck to help offset the cost.
Here's my current trailer when I had the 37s

With it being a deck over with a steep dovetail it makes loading cars quite difficult
Thats a good deal. What are you planning to haul with it? The interior height and width may limit some cargo/vehicles.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Not to hijack... In Commifornia, ANY utility/flatbed/enclosed trailer at 10000 GVWR or more, even if being towed empty, you're required to have a Commercial (class ) driver license. RV trailers (5th and TT) are the exception, but still have certain requirements.
Well California has alot of crazy rules. Luckily north Dakota is alot more relaxed on the laws. Dont even have emissions testing.

Thats a good deal. What are you planning to haul with it? The interior height and width may limit some cargo/vehicles.
Its 8.5 wide and 77" interior height. Main cargo will be cars, maybe a truck if it will fit and anything else that needs to be moved.
 

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Well California has alot of crazy rules. Luckily north Dakota is alot more relaxed on the laws. Dont even have emissions testing.



Its 8.5 wide and 77" interior height. Main cargo will be cars, maybe a truck if it will fit and anything else that needs to be moved.
Yes, many of our laws are ridiculous.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Heard back from the seller. It has 6 lug axles. So probably 5200lb axles which would make it around 15k gvwr. Brakes are in unknown working order and needs a new wiring plug for the bumper. Roof has a slight leak.
 

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Heard back from the seller. It has 6 lug axles. So probably 5200lb axles which would make it around 15k gvwr.
Not quite. What the axles support is only part of it. They count on a few thousand pounds being supported by the tow vehicle, too.
It could have a 20K GVWR.
 
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Heard back from the seller. It has 6 lug axles. So probably 5200lb axles which would make it around 15k gvwr. Brakes are in unknown working order and needs a new wiring plug for the bumper. Roof has a slight leak.
You can likely get new Dexter (or other USA made) brakes/backing plates and drums for each axle for about $150 per axle, the trailer plug is an easy fix and the roof leak might be an easy repair too. How far would you have to move it home from the seller?

I purchased a custom built, 25x8, triple axle (7000 each) tongue-pull enclosed car hauler from a consignment lot at the end of 2018, and paid $2500. The diamond plate installed on the floor was likely worth what I paid for the entire trailer. I put new tires, wheels and dexter brakes and drums and Timkin bearings on each axle for about $1000. Its an awesome trailer.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
You can likely get new Dexter (or other USA made) brakes/backing plates and drums for each axle for about $150 per axle, the trailer plug is an easy fix and the roof leak might be an easy repair too. How far would you have to move it home from the seller?

I purchased a custom built, 25x8, triple axle (7000 each) tongue-pull enclosed car hauler from a consignment lot at the end of 2018, and paid $2500. The diamond plate installed on the floor was likely worth what I paid for the entire trailer. I put new tires, wheels and dexter brakes and drums and Timkin bearings on each axle for about $1000. Its an awesome trailer.
I wish I can find new trailers around here for that price. Most places want 5k+ for a 14' enclosed cargo trailer. I had to replace the brakes on both axles on my 25' trailer. Those were about 200 an axle because it used an older 4 bolt brake flange. It's going to need new tires. And he said the roof was in ruff shape. Not sure if it can be patched or if it's going to need replaced. I have a welder so depending on what type of metal it is I may be able to weld some sheet metal on top of any holes.
 

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I have a welder so depending on what type of metal it is I may be able to weld some sheet metal on top of any holes.
I'd take the easy way out and rivet repair pieces on. Matching material, of course, and with good sealant on the overlap.
 
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I wish I can find new trailers around here for that price. Most places want 5k+ for a 14' enclosed cargo trailer. I had to replace the brakes on both axles on my 25' trailer. Those were about 200 an axle because it used an older 4 bolt brake flange. It's going to need new tires. And he said the roof was in ruff shape. Not sure if it can be patched or if it's going to need replaced. I have a welder so depending on what type of metal it is I may be able to weld some sheet metal on top of any holes.
The trailer I bought was built in the mid-2000's, and the company is no longer in business. The frame is 2x6 tube steel welded on ~16 centers, with diamond plate covering the entire floor and ramp area. The frame for the walls and roof is 1x3 aluminum tubing with a plywood outer cover, covered by a filon type material. The roof is plywood covered by an RV roof membrane. It does need to be replaced, and Im looking at doing another membrane roof or one of the roll-on thick rubberized roof coating materials, like they put on houseboats. My trailer does need some work, but most of it is maintenance, vs. major repairs.

Have you looked at what kind of roof the trailer you're looking at has installed? If its an RV membrane type, this company sells the material direct, and there area couple of options for thickness: https://www.flatroofsolutions.com/. or there are the rool-on options as well.
 

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Changing diff gear ratios will not help with the legality of legally being able to tow something, they go by the door sticker, truck as manufactured for weight ratings GCWR, GVWR etc...whatever published numbers from the manufacture that says what the vehicle can tow.

You improving engine torque or gears or anything else to allow the truck to tow more weight makes no difference to them, but does to you for personal safety reasons.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have no door sticker nor anything in the glovebox. There are different tow ratings between the 3.42 vs the 3.73. It's not much though. I think it's about 400lbs. But changing gears would make it tow easier with the larger tires.
 

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Changing diff gear ratios will not help with the legality of legally being able to tow something, they go by the door sticker, truck as manufactured for weight ratings GCWR, GVWR etc...whatever published numbers from the manufacture that says what the vehicle can tow.

You improving engine torque or gears or anything else to allow the truck to tow more weight makes no difference to them, but does to you for personal safety reasons.
Speaking only for California, as I just retired from ~30 years state level law enforcement. Exceeding the GVWR will not result in a citation, however, exceeding the GAWR or tire ratings can earn a citation. Also, If you have a basic class C license (passenger vehicle up to 26000 GVWR) and you're driving a 14000 GVWR dually, and are pulling an EMPTY 12000 GVWR flatbed trailer, you can be cited for NOT having a class A (commercial license).
 
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Also, If you have a basic class C license (passenger vehicle up to 26000 GVWR) and you're driving a 14000 GVWR dually, and are pulling an EMPTY 12000 GVWR flatbed trailer, you can be cited for NOT having a class A (commercial license).
If that combination is registered in CA, right?
 

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As a rule-of-thumb, as long as you are properly and legally licensed in your home state for the vehicle you're driving and what you may/may not be towing you're legal in California.

That's why you see/hear about "California special" flatbeds and gooseneck trailers. Many companies will de-rate a new trailer to 9990 or 9999 GVWR from the original over 10000 GVWR to allow California drivers with only a class C to legally tow a larger trailer without needing a commercial DL. You're still limited to a total of 10000 including the load, even though the trailer can haul more.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
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That's what I thought. Otherwise I'd be dead meat when sneaking in there with my 14K 3500 and 25K gooseneck.
 

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Speaking only for California, as I just retired from ~30 years state level law enforcement. Exceeding the GVWR will not result in a citation, however, exceeding the GAWR or tire ratings can earn a citation. Also, If you have a basic class C license (passenger vehicle up to 26000 GVWR) and you're driving a 14000 GVWR dually, and are pulling an EMPTY 12000 GVWR flatbed trailer, you can be cited for NOT having a class A (commercial license).
Ok but how about the GCWR, that is weight of truck and trailer together. Exceeding that is a problem from what I have read.
And many states you have to register your truck to the max weight allowed. (In Virginia). If I registered it as a car (not getting a truck plate), I could not legally tow the max GCWR. So they actually handed us plates that say on them 'truck'. And that costs me a lot more every year. I have a 3500 dually year 2005 4x4 4dr long bed.
 
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