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Discussion Starter #1
I haven’t driven a 3500 with air. Instead of adding bags to my 2500 to support a 5th wheel pin weight I’m thinking about trading for a 3500 with air.

Can anyone speak to the ride quality of the 3500?


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Ours rides nicely, even empty.
 

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Go drive one with & with out the air suspension. Drive them back to back. You'll have your answer pretty quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just posed this scenario in the srw vs drw thread but if may get lost in the other 203 comments. lol

I’ve read that your air suspension stops working if your over your trucks payload rating leaving you dead in the water. I’m new to the 5th wheel toy hauler world but some of those haulers have some heavy pin weights in the mid 3000 range. A srw limited 4x4 is going to have a payload rating around 3600-3700.

Does the air ride kill at the exact payload rating or does it give you some margin of error?


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I’ve read that your air suspension stops working if your over your trucks payload rating leaving you dead in the water.

Does the air ride kill at the exact payload rating or does it give you some margin of error?
If you read it on the internet, it is obviously true. But I heard that the sensor allows for a few ounces above payload, in case there's dust in the bed.

Meanwhile, in real life, it seems that some 2500s have had the system bark back when severely over loaded.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If you read it on the internet, it is obviously true. But I heard that the sensor allows for a few ounces above payload, in case there's dust in the bed.

Meanwhile, in real life, it seems that some 2500s have had the system bark back when severely over loaded.
So factory air it is. Lol


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It would be crazy if something were to stop working if its overloaded. I've not read of any failures but have seen many accounts of the trucks not raising the load from alt height to normal if over.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So another thought. I have the Thuren soft coils and fox shocks on the front of my 2500.

If i went with the non air 3500 i could swap them over. Then switch out the factory leaf pack with Thurens soft ride leaf pack and add a set of normal helper bags.

This would eliminate the factory Air INOP scenario but I’m curious how the Thuren leaf pack would ride? I’m very happy with the Thuren setup in my 2500.




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Or, you could get the 3500 with air, and leave it alone. Unless for some odd reason you don't like it as delivered.
Then put a few feet of air tubing and a couple of fittings under the seat...to make you feel better.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Or, you could get the 3500 with air, and leave it alone. Unless for some odd reason you don't like it as delivered.
Then put a few feet of air tubing and a couple of fittings under the seat...to make you feel better.
Most likely the best option. Lol

I just don’t want to be in this position again. I bought my 2500 2 months ago. I have $2000 worth of Thuren upgrades on my current truck I’d like to not throw away.

The rabbit hole runs deep and over analyzing is my cross to bear. At least I’m self aware enough to know i have a problem.

Originally with my 2500 i was just going to bag it and send it. Then i let the internet weight police get in my head. Realistically that’s prolly what i should do but my 2500 has a 2046 pound payload rating so this toy hauler puts me 700 over before i say go.




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its a personal use recreational trailer, send it. The DOT won't mess with you................hey its not my money.
 

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As I stated on the other post, that trailer is going to be bad for a 2500. It's a lot heavier than mine. I also think at almost 44 feet long you will want a dually to tame the wagging.

When I bought my 2500 I did test a 3500 with air and it was very nice. This last go Round I test drove a dually without air and I'd say it was about as good as my 2500 with bags. Much improved over my 2016. I went with a 3500 with air this time. If I get into a triple axle trailer I will be looking at a DRW.

What will you be hauling in the camper? The extra length of your longer camper won't pull as much off the pin as a shorter toy hauler. I think your pin will be over 3000lbs by the time you get it loaded up.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
As I stated on the other post, that trailer is going to be bad for a 2500. It's a lot heavier than mine. I also think at almost 44 feet long you will want a dually to tame the wagging.

When I bought my 2500 I did test a 3500 with air and it was very nice. This last go Round I test drove a dually without air and I'd say it was about as good as my 2500 with bags. Much improved over my 2016. I went with a 3500 with air this time. If I get into a triple axle trailer I will be looking at a DRW.

What will you be hauling in the camper? The extra length of your longer camper won't pull as much off the pin as a shorter toy hauler. I think your pin will be over 3000lbs by the time you get it loaded up.
A Honda pioneer. Clocks in at about 1800 pounds. Plus 30 gallons of fuel which i believe the tanks are located behind the axles.

So you went from a 2500 to a 3500 srw with air? How does pulling your hauler with your 3500 compare to your bagged 2500? Significant difference?


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A Honda pioneer. Clocks in at about 1800 pounds. Plus 30 gallons of fuel which i believe the tanks are located behind the axles.

So you went from a 2500 to a 3500 srw with air? How does pulling your hauler with your 3500 compare to your bagged 2500? Significant difference?


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I dont have my 3500 yet. I put the order in yesterday. When I got my 2500 I only had a travel trailer and no intention of getting a 5th wheel. Late last year we got the 5th wheel.

Its a double axle 36.5', 2600lb avg pin loaded, 16k lb trailer weight. We have about 3k miles towing it with the 2500. However depending on how its loaded it either tows great or a little white knuckle once we hit 70mph The trend is the heavier the pin, the worse it tows. As a result, I keep the 900 lb harely in there and water tanks filled just to keep the pin weight down.

It seems to be right on the edge for my setup. Your pin is quite a bit heavier. The real issue is the height of these things. It puts so much leverage being 13.5' high that the pin weight is really amplified.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I dont have my 3500 yet. I put the order in yesterday. When I got my 2500 I only had a travel trailer and no intention of getting a 5th wheel. Late last year we got the 5th wheel.

Its a double axle 36.5', 2600lb avg pin loaded, 16k lb trailer weight. We have about 3k miles towing it with the 2500. However depending on how its loaded it either tows great or a little white knuckle once we hit 70mph The trend is the heavier the pin, the worse it tows. As a result, I keep the 900 lb harely in there and water tanks filled just to keep the pin weight down.

It seems to be right on the edge for my setup. Your pin is quite a bit heavier. The real issue is the height of these things. It puts so much leverage being 13.5' high that the pin weight is really amplified.
Curious on your white knuckles. Was it a tail wagging feeling or something else? This is supposed to cure the tail wag/float feel and I ordered it before going down the rabbit hole of ordering a 3500. It will be here this week. I'm currently planning on returning it but I'm extremely curious on how it changes the dynamic of my 2500's handling characteristics. These YouTube videos describe exactly what I'm feeling.




 

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...I'm extremely curious on how it changes the dynamic of my 2500's handling characteristics.
The track bar is about as simple as it gets; a solid connection between two points.
If the points are still in the same spots and nothing is worn out on the stock unit (bushings), I don't see how there could be an improvement.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The track bar is about as simple as it gets; a solid connection between two points.
If the points are still in the same spots and nothing is worn out on the stock unit (bushings), I don't see how there could be an improvement.
Their bracket moves it up and farther over to the driver side. Looks like it extends it a bit and make it more parallel to the axle.

That cjc video is pretty interesting on how much movement the axle has side to side before and after.


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That first link is really an eye opener to what may be happening. That whole rear end shifts a good amount by loading and un loading the suspension. A little rocking of the camper i can totally see the action and reaction in my mind now.

The best way I can explain the white knuckle i feel is its very floaty.

In looking at a 3500 ot doesn't look like there's a track bar so you won't have the lateral movement you have on a 2500. The heavier the pin, the more that suspension wants to compress and shift the rear end over. The airbags help, but they still compress which will compress everything until the bags push it back.
 

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Their bracket moves it up and farther over to the driver side. Looks like it extends it a bit and make it more parallel to the axle.
If the distance between the two points is longer, and the bar more horizontal, that'll definitely help.
Still, the Panhard rod can only be truly correct at one height...which is why the Watts linkage was invented.
Wouldn't take all that much to whip one up for a 2500.
 
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Discussion Starter #20
If the distance between the two points is longer, and the bar more horizontal, that'll definitely help.
Still, the Panhard rod can only be truly correct at one height...which is why the Watts linkage was invented.
Wouldn't take all that much to whip one up for a 2500.
Had to google what a watts link was. Looks like something ram should of equipped the 2500 with from the factory.

So give the thuren track bar a go or ship it back?


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