Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum banner

300-350hp goal questions.?

9927 90
Hey all,

Like my title says I'm lookin to put my truck in the 300-350 range. My truck at the moment has minor afc mods with a 6 plate. I have 3k gsk's on hand but just waiting on the transmission really.
So for my questions:
1. I realize that I will be needing a new tc and was wondering if I could run a Diamond T convertor in it mainly because I do not have the cash to spend on a nice triple disc. Will that tc hold that hp?
2. Should I buy a dtt valve body kit or the transgo kit? I like that you can order the billet band and anchor with the dtt kit which is another thing I will buy.
3. Will I need the billet accumulator and billet servo too?
4. I don't want to spend way touch so will I need an hd rebuild kit for it?
Thanks in advance!
1 - 20 of 91 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
530 Posts
Diamond T is fine, these are fairly proven: Diesel Performance Converters 770-318-8696 Converters
IF you have the cash Id just get the DTT VB with all the goodies. If you're willing to shop there are a few threads with DIY tranny builds. With 91k I doubt you'll need a rebuild.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,566 Posts
after you get the trans done a #100 fuel plate and advance timing to 16* should get you to a nice 300hp if you can spare the extra cash i would get a billet input shaft i know it isnt needed at that pwr level but better to be save then sorry i guess. a forum member on here god prefers diesel broke his at 352hp
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
314 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
From stock it would be about a 150hp increase which is why I'm on the fence for a rebuild/upgrade kit. Thanks for the info from both of you. TheNeckasaurus is that the company that makes them?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
314 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
89dodge, what will it take to do timing? Plus with 3k gsk's it'll be even more hp yeah? As for an input. That's about 800$ out of my budget lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
530 Posts
From stock it would be about a 150hp increase which is why I'm on the fence for a rebuild/upgrade kit. Thanks for the info from both of you. TheNeckasaurus is that the company that makes them?
They are DTT, BD, etc converters that are remaned, meaning they are repaired or refreshened to be good as new essentially. I wont disagree that the shaft is always safe BUT if you can stay away from boosted launches and the like your shafts should be fine. Timing.... Do it. I would do a 4gsk but thats just me, you'll end up wanting that anyways:thumbsup: Again the rebuild isnt a bad idea but like I said @91k if the trans shifts smooth and works good I wouldnt rebuild it. Billet single disk, shift kit or valve body, the anchors and stuff, and that should hold 350hp comfortably and efficiently put it to the ground.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,566 Posts
89dodge, what will it take to do timing? Plus with 3k gsk's it'll be even more hp yeah? As for an input. That's about 800$ out of my budget lol
i am not that smart about timing, i am sure the others will help out. about the input i would think if you stay below 300hp like 300-325 you might not be pushing fate.

if you have a grinder, i would make that #6 plate in to a #100 or take it out. when you get your trans fixed

and i assume you have gauges? if not add 200-300$ to your list for the good brands
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
530 Posts
Dont cheap on guages, lots of guys run glowshifts with no problems, but alot of guys have issues. Best thing to do, chalk up an extra $100 and get some ISSPRO's or autometers.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
314 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the input guys! Will do a lot of research on timing as for gauges I have a triple pod from glowshift which work perfect. Haven't had any issues with them so far. I'm pullin the plate as soon as I build up my tranny. What kinda seal is there between the tranny and engine?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,566 Posts
the seal between the 2 is the rear main I might be wrong though. and for timing I wouldn't go higher than 16 since you risk poping a head gasket.

for turbo just pinch the wastegate line, or add a needle valve. you will be freaking out why your truck is hitting 1500 on the pryo. (with my setup) now she runs 1300 and max boost is 40lbs

incase you dont know max safe pryo 1250 max safw boost 35lbs all though some people had had there turbos past that and been fine others had to replace it
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
314 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok so basically a lot of balancing between the two is what I will be doing for a while. I have never actually got a straight answer on where the elbow goes. Can anyone elaborate on where this is?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
530 Posts
Theres a fitting on the front side bottom of the turbo with a line coming off it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,566 Posts
i chose the cheapest method and just pinched the line never seem to have a problem with it, even when towing a heavy duty 16ft bumper pull trailer with a calf feeder on it i am not sure on weight. boost never went past 30 psi and 1300 egt going 70mph up hill. (just giving my 2 cents with my current setup since me and you have the same exact build(i just dont have my gsk/timing done)) and i havent pulled with out my #100 in

hey on your trans did you have the trans lines gone over? i always ask since i had the same line blow 3 times with in an year.

but if your using the needle valve set it at 30psi its nice having a little bit of wiggle room just incase your able to push past the wastegate,
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
314 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Was afraid of hearing about that trans line. I haven't looked at it at all... Doesn't look like my boost elbow is in the normal place on the turbo cause I can't find it..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,566 Posts
ya I can, pm you pics of my stock line to see if you have the same setup? and can you post a pic of the line your talking about?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
314 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'll try to keep up with the thread but for now I'm extremely busy.. As for pics I'm not really sure what I'm looking for unde there to be honest with yuh
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,566 Posts
this might help you out got it from the beginner thread
Now, many companies market what they call a boost elbow, fitting, etc. which is simply a little brass 90* fitting with a set screw to limit this pneumatic signal and thus control the pressure at which the wastegate (W/G) opens. You can do the same thing with about $10 worth of parts at the hardware store. You only need a 1/4" needle valve with an 1/8" MTP (Male Threaded Pipe) on one side, and a 1/4" barbed fitting on the other side to connect into your AFC-to-wastegate hose.
*You can also cut into the W/G hose and use a 1/4" barb fitting on both ends, as in the pic below*

There are two locations to put this fitting, and it depends on what year truck you have:

1) On the back of the AFC there is a tee. Coming out of the top of the tee (the trunk) will be a straight barbed fitting with a 1/4" hose running in between the valve covers (between 4/5 I think) and down to the W/G. To install your boost fitting replace the one that's in there with the one that you have.

Note: Don't confuse this with the line that reads intake manifold pressure to the AFC. If you have two lines coming off of the AFC then location #1 where you'll be putting in the boost fitting. If there's only one smaller line, and it runs into the intake manifold you have the second kind, see below.

2) There is a little brass fitting tapped into the compressor housing of the turbo for the pressure signal (basically same thing as being tapped into the manifold), and from this brass barbed fitting is a hose running to the W/G. Use the same concept there as above. Your boost fitting will replace the brass fitting tapped into the comp housing.Boost Fitting Photos by waribu | Photobucket
 
1 - 20 of 91 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top