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$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
make the adjustments and play with it and see what happens. It may need to be replaced, but tossing 500+ labor on a clutch is not something we all can do. I can still tow a 3 horse gooseneck easily with a stock clutch. Now that said, I'm an old geezer (the one you never want to get behind) and drive lightly on the right foot....
 

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If you don’t have the money to replace something like a clutch then you probably shouldn’t be adding a significant amount of power to your truck in hopes the clutch will hold
 

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You will miss the fuel mileage.
I used to enjoy revving the motor.
Now after the acceleration, sweet sound and burst of speed I think of fuel used. Fun but no longer a cheap date.
 

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If you don’t have the money to replace something like a clutch then you probably shouldn’t be adding a significant amount of power to your truck in hopes the clutch will hold
If I offended you, my apologies. I'm on my 3rd and 4th truck (both 215 pumps) and doing the freebies has not had an effect on the clutch driving conservatively. Hauling heavy or hot rodding is a different story. I know you can get 250 from a stock clutch with the free mods. I've done it....
That said, if you have bucks or drive aggressively or tow, then a clutch will be in your near future.

it's all about choices, $$, and driving habits.
 

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If I offended you, my apologies. I'm on my 3rd and 4th truck (both 215 pumps) and doing the freebies has not had an effect on the clutch driving conservatively. Hauling heavy or hot rodding is a different story. I know you can get 250 from a stock clutch with the free mods. I've done it....
That said, if you have bucks or drive aggressively or tow, then a clutch will be in your near future.

it's all about choices, $$, and driving habits.
You haven’t offended me I’m just making sure the OP knows what to expect so he can make informed decisions. I will agree with you driving like a grandpa, light right foot and no towing will make a clutch live. However he’s talking about power levels 50-100hp higher then yours, will be towing and I’m sure taking advantage of his new found power. He’ll need a clutch
 

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You haven’t offended me I’m just making sure the OP knows what to expect so he can make informed decisions. I will agree with you driving like a grandpa, light right foot and no towing will make a clutch live. However he’s talking about power levels 50-100hp higher then yours, will be towing and I’m sure taking advantage of his new found power. He’ll need a clutch
I'm not sure how to respond to you. My goal was to provide the OP with what I had done and my experiences. Your interpretation is incorrect. I'm making the same power levels as what OP was wanting with a stock clutch (towing or not). When it's time to replace my clutch because it needs to be, I'll review options, but stock works (and has worked for several trucks). I too have taken advantage of the new power and hot rodded with no issues.

I've heard this story with trucks 1-3, and I still think a stock clutch, driven smartly, can be adequate...
Let's agree to disagree and give the OP his thread back
 

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I'm not sure how to respond to you. My goal was to provide the OP with what I had done and my experiences. Your interpretation is incorrect. I'm making the same power levels as what OP was wanting with a stock clutch (towing or not). When it's time to replace my clutch because it needs to be, I'll review options, but stock works (and has worked for several trucks). I too have taken advantage of the new power and hot rodded with no issues.

I've heard this story with trucks 1-3, and I still think a stock clutch, driven smartly, can be adequate...
Let's agree to disagree and give the OP his thread back
In the statement you just quoted i said I agree driven lightly it’ll last.

You’re contradicting yourself, before you were making 250hp with only very light driving and no towing. All of the sudden you’re making 300-350hp hot rodding all over town. So which is it?

The only thing I’m trying to do is inform the OP but you keep coming back at me with your unkillable factory clutches that now last at near double stock power while driving without reserve
 

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I wanna do another build.
Start off with a pristine stocker.
Then do it all over again, the smoke puking screamer is so passe, but I'm keeping it, a second turbo is out of the question too.
 

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I wanna do another build.
Start off with a pristine stocker.
Then do it all over again, the smoke puking screamer is so passe, but I'm keeping it, a second turbo is out of the question too.
Agreed. That’s why I’m putting compounds on my ppumped 98.5 and tuning it conservatively. Driving by smoke and pyro sucks.
 

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In the statement you just quoted i said I agree driven lightly it’ll last.

You’re contradicting yourself, before you were making 250hp with only very light driving and no towing. All of the sudden you’re making 300-350hp hot rodding all over town. So which is it?

The only thing I’m trying to do is inform the OP but you keep coming back at me with your unkillable factory clutches that now last at near double stock power while driving without reserve
Apologies to all,
250 was suppose to be 350, but it was a beer fueled debate (on my end) that has gone sideways. Make what you want of the information.
 

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You will miss the fuel mileage.
I used to enjoy revving the motor.
Now after the acceleration, sweet sound and burst of speed I think of fuel used. Fun but no longer a cheap date.
Not me, I picked up about 3 mpg average after taking advantage of the free mods.
 

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Be Proud Man

Apologies to all,
250 was suppose to be 350, but it was a beer fueled debate (on my end) that has gone sideways. Make what you want of the information.
Whoa, this is the internet!
We men do not make mistakes.
Beer is truth serum.
And most importantly,
It is all on the level.:smile2:
 

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well my original post was a little misleading, i do have an aftermarket MBRP 4 inch turbo back straight pipe and a K&N air filter system. but thats what i have been reading, that the clutch may have to be upgraded to keeep up with the horse power upgrades? i definitely plan on doing some towing with it.

The recipe i have been considering is:
KDP fix
3000 GSK
BHAF
adjust the pre boost screw
turn star wheel
change fuel plate (not sure to which one yet im still learnign about it)
mack rack plug (first i ever heard of this in my research so still learning too)
boost elbow
gauges

and then this recipe also claims to upgrade the clutch... but i have no idea to what. i was looking at south bend and i guess upgrading it to a 400hp rated clutch would be fine? I assume this recipe is putting me somewhere around 300 horse?
Decent recipe
KDP fix
3000 gsk
Junk the K&N, run a good air filter, BHAF or other.
Pre boost screw and star wheel are part of tuning a pump.
10 plate is good for towing.
Forget the Mack plug, your not looking for that much fuel.
Boost elbow to get you 30+ psi boost, 35 is about max for your HX35 turbo.
Gauges should be near the top of the list just under KDP fix.

I tow heavy, normally grossing 24-28k lbs, have very similar setup with 3k gsk, 10 plate and aftermarket turbo.
For heavy towing a clutch up grade is necessary but doesn't have to be a big step.
I'm running a stock pressure plate with a kevlar/ceramic disc from a local clutch builder.
Only enough fuel to get it rolling and use low range in the tcase when backing loads upgrade or on soft ground.
I'm sure I could blow through the clutch with a high rpm launch but that's not what I built the truck for.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Destroked450

yeah i wont be towing those numbers, maybe very seldom but definintely not frequently.

As for gauges, what am i looking for?
Boost, EGT's? What else?

Thanks!
 

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Also fuel pressure and tranny temp if it’s an automatic
 

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Boost
EGT
Fuel pressure
 

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The motor's tag is on the driver's side, side dimension of the timing case. It will tell you the motor's factory HP output as well as the factory timing.

I reckon the only hardware purchases you need to make are governor springs and possibly delivery valves (and a beefed up clutch). The intake & exhaust are standard too but you're already covered there.

But I agree with Dauntless. Get your gauges squared away before adding any power. EGT is an absolute minimum - you will be amazed what exhaust temps you can create when upping these trucks' fueling. 1,800 degrees at WOT w/ heavy fueling is easy, and you will starting melting gaskets and warping heads in no time running those temps for prolonged periods. And unlike the computer-controlled common rails, there is no brain in the truck to decrease your fueling when things get too hot. If you aren't gonna run a waste gate, turbo boost is good to have too, and at this point you might as well get fuel pressure.

Stox mentioned AFC Live and I second this. It's a totally trick unit (though actually very simple in design & function). It's something to finish off your mods with, and allows fine tuning the fueling from the cab. It's pretty awesome.
 

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We also so have a stock 1996 with 130000 miles and a stock 215 HP tag. We have been bulling a 5th wheel RV that weighs somewhere way north of 17000 lbs. For three years I have been crying about the smallest hill or head wind and I lose speed. Its like towing the Queen Mary.

Finally talked the wife (its really her truck, I am just a "hired" driver) in to letting me ad some mods. I can only say double ditto the AFC LIVE from Power Driven Diesel. Had our mechanic install the AFC, he also plugged the waste gate line. He also told be to install a BHAF which I did and also added a "bug catcher" jacket over the filter.

WOW! Left the garage and stepped on the gas, and after a small delay, felt my back being pushed into the seat. What a strange feeling. Hooked up to the RV and went from Dallas to Orlando and have now crossed the Texas State Line on the way back to Dallas. I have not tuned the AFC to the max. It is dialed up a little but nowhere near the max. With a load (the heavy RV) I can pull every hill with out loosing speed (I can actually accelerate up the hills if I want too) and I can even pass the 18 wheelers if I want to. Running 65 to 67 mph, we averaged 9.75 mpg on the trip. I did notice on a couple of hills the stock clutch slipped a couple of hundred rpms if I stepped on the gas too much. Ease of on the gas it stopped slipping.

It is still a thrill driving with a load, stepping on the gas, after a slight delay, feeling something like a jet hitting the afterburners. At some point in the future we might upgrade the clutch and exhaust system, but for right now I am a really happy camper that did not have to break the bank to get what I wanted. I can't say enough nice things about the folks and Power Driven Diesel. They got me what I wanted and did not break the bank.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
so if i were to purchase this AFC live, would i need to do any other tuning to the pump at all? just install the 3000 gsk and let the afc live do its thing?? or should i still get a #10 plate and adjust the pre boost screw and star wheel? more feedback from AFC live users!!!

Thanks guys for all of the replies figuring a lot out here!
 

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Whoa, this is the internet!
We men do not make mistakes.
Beer is truth serum.
And most importantly,
It is all on the level.:smile2:
As Homer Simpson said "Beer the reason for, and the answer to, all of life's problems."
 
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