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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I got the modded 3" in and out stock IC in and test drove it for a while.

Now for my thoughts on this mod. It did not reduce EGT's any at WOT. I did notice an improvement in the mid range power of the engine. My engine has always seemed to be a little slugish from 45 to 65 MPH. With the IC opened up that seemed to go away. Now it pulls all the way up to 90 MPH or so with no let up in acceleration.

My bottom line would be if your thinking of more WOT flow it isn't there. So think of a PS or 2nd gen IC for those types of apps or the one that New Era has geared to to produce.

In a towing app I think this mod might be worth the effort. I do like the way it helped the mid range on my setup.

HX40 is next guy's. :D
 

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I have not had a chance to really test my power stroke cooler yet. My only problem is going to be I am changing turbo and going to a stans exaust at the same time. That means I won't have a clue what the p/s cooler really did for me. I did not want to spend money on cooler tubes when I knew I was going to change turbo. So I will be sitting and waiting for parts for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yea its hard to know what each mod does what when you change to many items at once. Some times it is better do them all at once with the changes your making.

The left side tubes you could have installed as soon as you go them. The right side is most likely a straight section of pipe. That one isn't hard to make.

I made my own passenger side 3" pipe. I have a bead roller. So rolling a bead on it wasn't a problem. :D I just don't have any way to bend 3" pipe.
 

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I have a friend that has a exaust bender in his shop and he can bend up to 3 inch pipe. My only concern is when I weld it together I might get a loose peice of weld and suck it in to the motor. I know a guy that was building a exaust on his 4.3 boat engine. He must have gotten a peice of slag down though the manifold and it blew it up when he started it. That is why I am considering tims tubes.
 

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Put a PS IC in and be done with it. The stockers just weren't made to flow. :popcorn:
 

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I welded up all 3.5" tubes when I put in my twins. It went pretty easy. Just have to reduce at the IC and The Turbo. I would have just used 3" But I bought all it for $1 at the bone yard(Semi Intake Tubing).
 

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will a 2nd gen IC fit easy or what does it take to make them fit. i can get a 2nd gen IC off a 96 and get a turbo off an 01. prolly for free. what are your suggestions that i get and why. i need to know what tubes i need off them if any.
 

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I have heard guys putting in a 2nd gen cooler in a first gen. I heard it is easyier to put a 2nd gen in a 89 to 91.4 non i/c truck and it is easyier to put a powerstroke in a 91.5 up factory i/c truck. Get every pipe, boot, intake horn, turbo outlet, clamp you can get with it. Boots are 20 bucks a pop and you will need to change to 3 inch cooler pipes. It is not something you are gonna do in one or two nights. It takes a few hours. I have 30 hours or so in my powerstroke cooler. check out this link for my transplant. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/8...01-powerstroke-intercooler-going-my-89-a.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

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Well I got the modded 3" in and out stock IC in and test drove it for a while.

Now for my thoughts on this mod. It did not reduce EGT's any at WOT. I did notice an improvement in the mid range power of the engine. My engine has always seemed to be a little slugish from 45 to 65 MPH. With the IC opened up that seemed to go away. Now it pulls all the way up to 90 MPH or so with no let up in acceleration.

My bottom line would be if your thinking of more WOT flow it isn't there. So think of a PS or 2nd gen IC for those types of apps or the one that New Era has geared to to produce.

In a towing app I think this mod might be worth the effort. I do like the way it helped the mid range on my setup.

HX40 is next guy's. :D
all right time for the pics philip! been waiting months to see it!
 

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yeah...pics please :thumbsup
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Ok here a couple of pic's.

This 1st one is a completed IC tube. I used 3" - 1/8" wall 6061 T6 alumin tube for the new ends. I tried some .065 tube but it was to thin. It took 145 amps on a tig to hold a weld puddle on these thick IC shells.

If you think about doing this this. Have the bead on the tube before you narrow the pipe down. The pipe will deform on the inlet if you do not.

When you have the old end removed and cut down for a smooth flow into the new end. The opening from the IC will be 2" X 4". all you do is squeese the 3" pipe down to an oblong to fit. Then weld it down.








I had to open the raditor suppor about 1/2" on each side for the bigger tubes. My camera lost that pic. :( I am not going to pull everything back apart to get another pic. :lol3:

jer1 I am not going to butcher a raditor support up that much to install a PS IC. If I need more air flow I'll just run over to New Era and pickup one of his bolt in 3" tube replacement IC's. On a side note I have found no one that has done this and talked about it on the 4 different diesel sites I belong to. So now if someone asks about opening up the stock IC here is a thread with the results.
 

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I second the butcher thought. I did alot of cutting for sure.
 

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nice job Philip :thumbsup
 

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Ya. I already had the frozen boost site ( same as hump hose ). I can not get through to place an order. They want orders by internet. I will not do any credit card over the net. If I get through thats where I am gettin mine. I meant 20 bucks a pop $12.99 plus 2 t clamps at $2.60 each. Thanks for the link Philip!!!
 

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Philip, I am interested in your hx40 swap. I had one guy say that a hx40 is no good. I disagree. He says it is a laggy pig. Post when you get that baby on.... P.S. if your a real man you will take the cap off the full power screw.:lol3: We want a picture of tire smoke mixed with fuel smoke.:peelout Im still waiting on ordered parts for my 300 swap. I got the charge air pipe ordered and still waiting on the fitting for the oil line The first one they sent me was for a late model and had wrong threads on it. I have also started a file on links that you and other guys have given me.. Keep them comming. THANKS.:thumbsup
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
A friend of mine installed a Super HX40/16cm a while back. He tows quite often and heavy. With the HX35 on he had EGT problems. He hasn't had that problem sence the 40 install. His truck is a stick shift. He said the Hx40 spools about the same as the HX35.

We want a picture of tire smoke mixed with fuel smoke
I am not going back to regular street tread tires to do that. When I bought the truck a decade ago. On a WOT take off with street thread I could do that. With the meadium aggressive thread tires I run now I can't. :lol3:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Richie here is some of a post my friend did after install and making a long heavy tow.

1: I have a much broader pulling rpm range. Before it was easy to get 1400# on the top of the RPM range, and surge the turbo down low. In 4th and 5th I would have to tach out the cummins to catch the next gear, and usually surge the turbo. When in OD before, I had to keep vehicle speed over 70 mph or the stock turbo would surge like crazy. I was either regulated to 58 mph in 4th, or 72 in OD to keep everything relatively happy. With the new setup, one hill I left it in OD to see what happened. The truck topped the hill at 50 mph, with about 1200* on the pyro and no surge. The getrag probably didn't like it, but the cummins was happy. On the top end the turbo can keep going up to the governor.

2: The truck has much smoother power, not the violence of the lag, the boost on. While it was fun before having the tires break loose halfway across the interstection when the charger lit, this new charger brings the power on smoother.

3: Like KTA said, EGT's went down, as did the engine temp. Only one time did the engine temp get any warmer then it does running around emtpy. Before on hills, the engine temp would follow EGTS, and be hot at the top of the hill.

4: The stock turbo was very easy to "bark", and surge. This HX40 has not barked at all yet, and has never surged. For my power level, and truck dutys, I'm not worried about the shaft breaking. Now if a SB Dual disk clutch went in, a 14mm rotor, and governor springs removed, and hooked to a sled, I'd count on it failing. In a street truck/tow pig/work truck, I think it will be hard to beat.

I've not decided yet, but I am relativly sure I picked up some power. It was not stagerinly different seat-of-the-pants feel, but it definatly has more usable power, and alot broader rpm range.
 

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Thanks! I enjoy reading about the parts and what they do. I am not a good diesel mechanic, but reading helps the mind. I have a few diesels in heavy trucks, tractors, boats and heavy equipment, but I still am lacking in any real mechanical ability when it comes to engine work on these. I do all my maintenence but no major internal repairs. I think it is due to the high dollar amount it would cost if I messed up. Thanks again !
 
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