Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I recently acquired a 2001 Ram 2500 2WD Quad Cab with the Cummins diesel engine. My teenage son is all into fixing cars and I thought this would be a nice father/son project and be a useful work vehicle to boot. We've had a Dodge Ram for a long time, but this is our first diesel. We fixed some minor things (new thermostat/coolant flush, neutral safety switch, new tensioner pulley, new belt, new headlights, oil change, new fuel filter, etc.) and then decided to tackle the big issue of the front suspension, which had a lot of squeaks/creaks whenever the vehicle moved. We figured we'd change out the front brake pads while we were at it. Not being one to go halfway, we dove right into the deep end with new Moog upper/lower balljoints, inner/outer tie rods, Energy suspension bushings for upper/lower control arms and stabilizer bar. We're no strangers to tools or the garage (we're also rebuilding a 1972 Dodge Charger), but this was definitely a big task.

We decided that while we had it all apart, we would like to level off the front end with the back. We looked at the coil spring spacer idea, but then I found the TufTruck Coil springs (#1615) for the 2WD Ram 2500 that promised 1-3" of lift, and I would have new springs and some leveling lift at the same time... Sounded pretty good to me. They also recommended longer shocks to account for the increased height, so I got some longer aftermarket shocks.

Things went relatively smoothly, even pressing out all those old bushings, until we got to putting in the new springs. They were a real bear to put in, but we finally got the spindles back on the balljoints and secured. When we removed the jack from under the lower control arm, I noticed that the upper control arm was pulled flat against the upper spring bucket, and the inside of the upper part of the spindle was rubbing against the side of the upper spring bucket. I had noticed that the original setup looked somewhat similar with the wheel off and attributed it to the fact that without the wheel on there, there was nothing to push back up against the spring/control arms. I figured when we set it down on the ground, that it would push back up the upper control arm some.

Well, once we finished both sides and put it down on the ground, no such luck-- and boy was it raised in the front-- way up in the air. Those springs didn't budge and the upper control arm was still pulled down hard with the upper spindle touching the upper spring bucket. I didn't feel any resistance when turning the steering wheel so I took it down the street to the shop to get it aligned. The upper control arms had to be pulled all the way out in the adjustment slots. At first, this freed up the spindle from rubbing on the upper coil spring bucket, but then they noticed that the middle bolt holding the upper ball joint to the upper control arm was resting against the upper spring bucket. So they cut off some of the middle bolt and instead of staying where it was, the upper control arm was pulled down until the spindle was just touching the upper spring bucket.

I still don't feel any resistance when I turn the steering wheel, but if I hit a bump or pothole, I can hear the metal rubbing together... Essentially, the upper control arm, when the vehicle is sitting still has no downward travel available. I talked to TufTruck about the springs. Apparently there were some 2001 2500's that were setup for a 13" coil spring, and these new springs were 15" tall. I did notice the height difference, but silly me, I figured that's where the lift they talked about was going to come from. TufTruck said they will take the springs back, which is nice of them, but of course that means we have to go through all that again.

So, here's the question: Do I have any other options besides taking those coil springs out? Is it going to settle at all in the near future, allowing the upper control arms to move upward?

Any thoughts/advice is appreciated!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
233 Posts
I don't really have any input on the issue but I plan on purchasing the same spring for my truck soon to do the same as you try to level it but mine is a 2006...I guess I will just have to see if it fits right I hope so.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Those springs are listed for 94-12 2500's, so hopefully you will have better luck... They seem like a great spring, but apparently, just too long for my truck, which happened to have shorter front springs.

Here are some pics of my front end with the issues I described earlier.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
438 Posts
No way those are ever going to work

Just order a leveling spacer kit, pretty much fail proof

I wouldn't worry about the old springs, unless one side is sitting higher than the other, they pretty much are never going to fail, just settle a little which can be compensated with a bigger spacer
 
  • Like
Reactions: dave91tx

·
Registered
Joined
·
233 Posts
I wish I could find replacement bushings for everthing like you did for my truck...I cant find anything other than Ball Joints and most of my bushings up front are worn slap out. My driver side makes all kinds of funny noises going over small bumps lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Yes, that's the decision we have come to, talking with spring manufacturer... They are sending shorter heavy duty springs (#TTC9615), and taking these back... I have to take the taller ones back out this weekend... What fun... I am investigating the spacer idea, but if the new springs are 13.5 in tall and I put even a 1 in spacer on there, I am almost back at this point, which is not working... So, I will probably just try the new springs and see where it gets me.

Regarding the question on bushings, check out Energy Suspension. The part number I used was 5.3124R for the red ones. I also used their kit for the stabilizer bar bushings (5.5124R). So far, they are really nice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
510 Posts
Any luck with the new springs?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Still waiting on the replacements to get here... Not happy about my truck being up on jack stands for the past week, but what can I do... Hoping to get them soon. Will definitely let everybody know how it goes as soon as I get them in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Let us know how it works for you. Ive about decided to go with the Daystar 1.5 level kit ,because everyone whose done was pretty much problem free. Anything more seems like a crapshoot with these front ends.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
438 Posts
I almost think that the 1.5" may be a little too much also

Might want to consider something to limit down travel to prevent over extending the shocks on a big bump. Not to mention the tie rods and ball joints

Thats what I'm going to do. Probably going to use chains wrapped in tape or heat shrink to limit the clanking noise. Or I'll splurge and get actual nylon limit straps

A 1" spacer maxes out the stock 2wd shocks at ride height so be prepared to get longer ones
 

·
MOOB ADMIRER!
Joined
·
2,452 Posts
Whoa... Those springs were scary. Especially the curves and the angles of the spindles.

Good luck

sent from a solar powered calculator
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
OK, good news everybody... Thanks for all the replies... Here's the latest on my 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 diesel (2WD).

We got the TTC-9615 springs and put them in tonight... Set it down on the ground and everything looks good. Got plenty of clearance back for the upper control arms... no rubbing on the upper spring bucket.

Bonus is that the front is still sitting up and truck looks very close to level. Rides very nice. Tomorrow morning I'm going to get it aligned again... The camber is way off because it was aligned when I had those longer springs in there.

The TTC-9615 springs are 13.5 inches long. The old springs I took out of the truck were right around 13 inches. I didn't use any spacers with the 9615's (just the regular rubber spring insulator that they all have in the top). Somebody mentioned just using the old springs with spacers. I didn't want to do that because the two springs I took out of there were a bit strange. One had 7 coils and .940" steel and the other one had 6 coils and .875" steel... They were also pretty rough looking. Remember I got this in a trade so I have no knowledge at all of the history of the truck.

So, to summarize, if you have a 2001 Ram 2500 diesel, they would expect you to have 15" coil springs up front, and if you do, then you should be able to use the TTC-1615 springs and do well. But, there is a possibility that you may have 13" springs, in which case you need to use the TTC-9615 springs (which are listed as heavy duty springs for gas engine 2WD 2500's)... But, like I said, they are heavy duty and they actually give my 2500 diesel a bit of a lift... Just enough to look almost level. They may settle some, but it will still look good.

Somebody mentioned longer shocks - yes, we did put SkyJacker H7010 shocks on there to account for the increased lift.

Wanted to say thanks to Randy from TufTruck and the folks at SDTruckSprings.com... They sent me the replacement springs and paid to bring the other ones back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
233 Posts
Any updates for you?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Everything's still looking good, thankfully. The TTC-9615 front coil springs were the right match for my front end. Got it aligned again and still have plenty of travel on the upper control arms and the truck has remained very close to level with a nice look to it.

The ride is nice and solid - no more squeaking on every bump. This weekend, we threw on some Bilstein shocks in the rear to replace the very old and worn out shocks that were on there. Things are looking good. Bilsteins were part # 24-184854 (4600 series) in case anybody is curious.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
438 Posts
have any pics of how the truck sit
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
That looks great!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
233 Posts
Did you notice much ride quality difference from just the spring swap? Reason I ask is I plan on doing a CST lift in the future and adding the springs would mean having to run different spacers to achieve the correct lift height and I'm not sure if its worth bothering with all that or just do the CST lift as is and be done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
The short answer is a definite yes... But there are a couple factors to consider:

(1) We had this vehicle a very short time before we completely redid the front end, so it was a short time for comparison.

(2) It wasn't really just a spring swap-- we changed out all upper/lower bushings and ball joints, inner/outer tie rods and sleeves, coil springs, shocks, idler and pitman arms, and had the rotors turned and put on new brake pads...

(3) I have a feeling that the coil springs that we took out of the truck were not the original springs (at least I hope not), and they were not very strong (compared to the new springs). Before the change, we could push on the front end and get quite a bit of up and down movement, along with a lot of squeaking. Before the change, any bumps, even small ones, would cause squeaking and rocking motion up front. After the change, everything is very solid-- no more rocking up and down or squeaking.

Overall, it was a big transition... In comparison to how it was riding, the new setup feels very stiff, but in a good way. Hope that helps. Good luck with your lift. I'm curious to know how that works out for you.

-------------
2001 Ram 2500 Quad Cab 2WD, 5.9L L6 Cummins Turbo Diesel
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Dave, any chance youve got the old springs laying around, and could give me a i.d./o.d. measurment?
Truck looks great by the way. Cant wait till my diaper bandit can start wrenching.
:party018:
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top