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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
anybody ever swap the front axle of a 2500 for the 3500 axle? the dually style with the off set rims:catfight2: My front end has shown to be the weak link on the ol tow rig and is in need of rebuilding,:S: spings and ball joint, etc. I am contimplating putting the money towards an axle swap for the 3500? Any idea what Ild be getting into?
 

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My 2wd dosent have an axle just a arms and spindles and such, I'd think your is the same with coil springs it should be a direct bolt in to go from 2500 to 3500
 
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Check the PN's between the 2500 and 3500 ball joints, springs, spindles, calipers, etc. That is how I usually look to see if they are the same or not (Rockauto.com is a good site). I'm thinking that the upper ball joints are the same from 1500 to 3500 and the lowers are the same from 2500 to 3500. What I am getting at is it may be a lot of work to "upgrade" but without any more strength or longevity. Basically, I would rebuild the front suspension with good parts and move on. I doubt my 2WD was used for more than towing a jon boat (it was an old guy truck) and the front end is worn out. It only has 110k.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
control arms, rite I knew that!

Thanks guys, ya ya, control arms, I knew that!! dooh.
Decided to upgrade to a heavier spring, quality shock and rebuild the rest. With 130k we should be able to make it another round. At least Im sure the tranny will fail again before the front end starts eating tires again.
Thanks again..
:yourock:
 

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the one tons are the same as 3/4 tons. they just run adapters in order to run different wheels. and its a-arms not solid axles.
I dont have any adapters on mine. Just one huge hub rotor assembly.:confused013:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Followed FORCUS's advise, researched the part #'s. I found a set of #'s for 3500. Parts that are very similar to the 2500 parts, upper and lower arms, coil spring. most of them are the same #'s
I also found part #'s listed for a "soid axle 3500" must have been the heavier commercial trucks?
Dont think I need to take it that far, just for clarification.
Damn truck rides like a burro on a pogo stick. Front end bouncing up and down wondering all over with the back end firmly raised at attention in the event that a load may be placed upon it. getting all kinds of help from those helper springs
Sagging in front and over extended in back.
 

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really? So I would be able to run a regular rotor with wheels off a 3/4 ton?
 

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So, I still have to buy the whole hub assembly when I need new brakes? Or can I just buy the Rotor portion?
 

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Ill be damned.
This info is very interesting to me. I dont know if Ill ever use any of it, but it is interesting knowledge to file away for future reference.
Sometimes a dually is a little big.
 

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yes they did, Ive seen a few long bed 2wd srw 3500 trucks in that body style
 

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yes they did, Ive seen a few long bed 2wd srw 3500 trucks in that body style
Yep, and I edited my post before I saw yours so nobody but you and me know what were talking about now.:hehe:

Time for some dually edumacation.
Dodge had 2 different dually setups on our years at least.
The kind like is bieng discussed here, which has an 11000# GVWR.
And a 10500# gvwr version.
I think the 11000# version was just a SWR that dodge threw a bigger rear end in the back and spacers on the front. Those hubs dont last as long.
Then theres the 10500# version.
This would be the real mans dually.
OK OK :S: Im kidding.
Anyway, I was remembering when I started pricing rotors(I need em) Some were 65$, some were 200 to 300 dollars(thats for the good ones. Depends were you bought em. Dodge or ORiellys).
The 65 hubs are the ones with he bolt on spacers.
Mine are a solid Hub and rotor assembly.
200 to 300 dollars
No Idea why the hevier duty truck has a lighter GVWR. Possibly due to the heavier parts.
Now we know.
 
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