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Hopefully this is in the right place. If not, Admins please move it. Thanks!

So, I got to thinking. Since I got WAY more into this truck than what you could buy a new one for, and it's got the cancer pretty bad, why not do a frame off resto and build it for a little more hp. It laid down an efficient 546hp and 1035tq on a dyno last year and with the 175hp injectors it should lay down 600hp pretty easily. It must be able to do that because in February I broke the intermediate shaft in the trans. I needed someone to help me build a trans that would hold up. I contacted Dusty at HTS in Lowell, Mi. and $4k later I got a full blown competition trans with a great warranty. So for anybody looking for a GOOD trans builder, HTS is the place.

Anyway, the day after Easter my buddy and I started on the tear down. IMG_20140422_172340_215.jpg

A few days later the cab is off. IMG_20140426_205457_535.jpg

And a few more days later to find the head is cracked and junk. IMG_20140428_114355_068.jpg
 

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We also find some cracked pistons. IMG_20140428_242702_707.jpg

Trans/T-case out and engine coming out. IMG_20140502_182710_283.jpg

And now we find 2 cracked/broke mains on the block. IMG_20140503_231843_116.jpg

I jumped the gun on the pistons and bought a set of .020 over coated pistons for this block since it was already .020 over and the cylinders looked fine. After I bought them is when I discovered the block is junk, so they are for sale in the 2nd gen section. I decided on using a brand new short block. I also got a good head from a buddy of mine. I pulled the pistons from the short block and took them and the head over to C-Tech Performance in Grand Rapids, Mi. They are going to cut valve relief in the pistons and firering and port the head. I thought of cutting off the intake shelf but I just can't swallow $1300 for an intake. Once they get done with it I am sending the pistons and head to SwainTech to have the pistons coated and the head and valve faces coated also.

I got a modified Gorilla Girdle and studs from Industrial Injection to stiffen up the bottom end. The crank is going to get sent out for balance. I think I'm going to use my old rods since they are the England made rods. The rods that came in the short block are 5 from Mexico and 1 from Brazil. They way I understand it the England rods are supposed to be better. They are going to get magnafluxed for cracks and checked to make sure they are still straight.

I am having a hard time getting a hold of Hamilton Cams to talk to them to find out which cam to go with. I'm looking at the 188/220 and new tappets.

I want to build me a sleeper truck. Retain as much of the stock look that I can, even under the hood. There is gonna be a lot of powdercoat under there too. This is my daily driver. It is not going to turn out to be a Saturday Mecum or Barrett Jackson auction truck but hopefully it is good enough for a Thursday or Friday nite show.
 

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Subscribed wish I had the time ... been thinking about picking up a 2nd gen to restore thanks for the thread!

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Wonder what made the block crack like that almost looks like someone tighten that thing up with a impact gun you got any pics of the rod and main bearings
 

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Im doing the same type of frame off restoration on my 1998.5 Dually 5 Speed i picked up for 1200 bucks last fall. Ill tell you what, your truck is mint compared to mine! Ill be tuned into this build for sure.
 

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subscribed....oh the carnage....love it...
Here's some more carnage that we found in the block and in the bottom of the oil pan and had a good part of the oil pickup tube blocked. It's not magnetic and it is too dark in color to be aluminum. Cast is the only thing we can come up with but there is nothing missing from the block, even where it's cracked. This is about 1/2 of it. the rest got lost in the disassembly and clean up process.
IMG_20140514_165003_792.jpg
 

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Wonder what made the block crack like that almost looks like someone tighten that thing up with a impact gun you got any pics of the rod and main bearings
We are wondering the same thing. I specifically remember when we were doing the build my buddy, diesel mechanic, pulled out this huge, very expensive looking Snap On digital torque wrench. I swear he told me that thing was all of $800. Can't imagine it being out of calibration.

Here's the main bearings. Left is top and right is bottom. IMG_20140514_165624_768.jpg

Here's the rod bearings. Same deal. IMG_20140514_165651_444.jpg
 

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I ain't never seen bearings or debris like that before. Then again I've only done gasser till now. This is my first diesel. I've seen over rev spun bearings (to much nos, not enough since, I was 18 &it was a Taurus SHO) and I've seen not enough oil (super dumb girlfriend). Neither looked like that.
 

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How was it running before all of this?
 

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I can say the bearings, mains and rods, didn't spin. The printed info on the back of the bearings is still transfer imprinted on the mains and rods.

This thing ran like a top. It didn't make any knocking sounds or anything.
 

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And you said you rebuilt the engine once already wat did you do to this thing those bearings looked like you used sand for oil and the crap in he pan looks like river rock
 

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The camera made them look WAY worse than what they are. I though they looked pretty good. We have a family friend who works in the powertrain division for GM and has been in the automotive industry for 40 years. He has one of them cool jobs of blowing up engines and transmissions all day and then figure out why it failed and send the engineers back to the drawing board. I called him up and had him come over to get his thoughts on this. He looked at the bearings and said they look pretty darn good. Both the mains and rod bearings. The river rock in the bottom,.... well, that's got him kinda stumped also. It is very hard and very light. Without having it tested he is thinking either the oil got so hot it's actually coke or some kind of ceramic. Oddly enough all the junk is around the rear oil drain port that the bottom turbo drains to, yet the turbo spins and looks good. We have to tear Both turbo's down yet. ALSO, when we were taking the oil pan off and getting into the bottom end the left over oil in there smelled extremely burnt. If the turbo's come out ok then I gotta do some homework to see where I can have a sample of this sent off to find out what it actually is.
 

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Awesome build thread ... Keep pics rolling ..

How hard is the cab to remove.

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Awesome build thread ... Keep pics rolling ..

How hard is the cab to remove.

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I drove it to my buddy's shop the nite before so we don't have hot parts to deal with. The next nite we drove it inside and an hour later it was off. Pretty easy, especially if you have a hoist. Working on some more pics. Prolly not tonite, but stay tuned....
 

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What kind oil did you run
 
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