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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
We are in the middle of a 95 Cummins swap.

Our question is:

We are not going to be using the dodge A/C, Headlights, Tail lights, Turn signals, Etc, Etc. The question is how much of the wiring can be taken off? All of it? Is there any of it that we may need to leave? Thanks!
 

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Is this a race truck?

The only things the motor needs to run is the starter connections, and the shutoff wires (unless you rig up a manual shutoff). But having the tach, temp, etc. wires is always nice :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is this a race truck?

The only things the motor needs to run is the starter connections, and the shutoff wires (unless you rig up a manual shutoff). But having the tach, temp, etc. wires is always nice :D
Its gonna be more or less a daily driver. We are putting in Autometer tach, speedo, etc.(all new wiring).
Thanks for the reply! Here is our build GMC Cummins If you go to the last page you can see all the wiring mess we took off today.

Thanks for the reply I really appreciate it.
 

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lol, I'm definitely not a member there.... I can't view the thread, but I'll take your word for it.

I didn't think there was much wiring to be removed, but maybe I've just never looked for it. Heck, I think half the wiring under my hood is stuff I put in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
lol, I'm definitely not a member there.... I can't view the thread, but I'll take your word for it.

I didn't think there was much wiring to be removed, but maybe I've just never looked for it. Heck, I think half the wiring under my hood is stuff I put in there.
Well we took out he wiring from the front bumper to the hitch basically so thats why there was so much stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

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That is something I would like to do on my truck sometime... lucky

The 6bt is a wonderfully simple engine. It is COMPLETELY mechanically controlled. The shutoff arm is mechanical but happens to have a solenoid attached to it. And of course it is electronic start. I suppose a pneumatic start system could be rigged onto it. Hmmm...

So, the only things you need on the engine (as mad mike said) are the fuel shutoff solenoid and starter. It is simple to wire up: put 8 volts to the one wire when you want it to "hold" and put the other two wires to ground and a 12v source for the "latch" or pulling up signal. Stock, the latch wire is just put to the same wire as the starter.

If it were me, I would go with a mechanical shutoff (choke cable or something like that) and mechanical gauges where possible (boost, fuel pressure, boost, maybe even tach and speedo), with an old school pyro (powered by the thermocouple) and basic electronic intake air and coolant temp gauges. The grid heater would be powered by a push button or maybe a small 30 second timer :)

These trucks have an indecent amount of wiring (PCM? really?) for the engines and features they have. Building a nice custom truck gives you the opportunity to wire it right (starter as the only electrical engine thing).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That is something I would like to do on my truck sometime... lucky

The 6bt is a wonderfully simple engine. It is COMPLETELY mechanically controlled. The shutoff arm is mechanical but happens to have a solenoid attached to it. And of course it is electronic start. I suppose a pneumatic start system could be rigged onto it. Hmmm...

So, the only things you need on the engine (as mad mike said) are the fuel shutoff solenoid and starter. It is simple to wire up: put 8 volts to the one wire when you want it to "hold" and put the other two wires to ground and a 12v source for the "latch" or pulling up signal. Stock, the latch wire is just put to the same wire as the starter.

If it were me, I would go with a mechanical shutoff (choke cable or something like that) and mechanical gauges where possible (boost, fuel pressure, boost, maybe even tach and speedo), with an old school pyro (powered by the thermocouple) and basic electronic intake air and coolant temp gauges. The grid heater would be powered by a push button or maybe a small 30 second timer :)

These trucks have an indecent amount of wiring (PCM? really?) for the engines and features they have. Building a nice custom truck gives you the opportunity to wire it right (starter as the only electrical engine thing).
Thanks. Ya, I like it to look as open and clean as possible under the hood.
 

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What are you using for an alt? the computer is the voltage reg on the 2nd gen I believe.

You have that pile of wire there and its mostly the same gauge astelephone wire, I always wondered how much Dodge saved per truck using light gauge wire, maybe $2
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
What are you using for an alt? the computer is the voltage reg on the 2nd gen I believe.

You have that pile of wire there and its mostly the same gauge astelephone wire, I always wondered how much Dodge saved per truck using light gauge wire, maybe $2
We haven't really decided what we are doing with the alternator.
 

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If you want to ditch the computer it is a trivial matter to install an old school voltage regulator. They run about 20 bucks at the parts store.

Ask for one for a dodge 1993 d250 diesel, and for the wire connector. Or just grab one from the junkyard. Be sure all your wires for the field control have good connections because if they are poor, you will get poor charging or a voltage fluctuation, like I had.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If you want to ditch the computer it is a trivial matter to install an old school voltage regulator. They run about 20 bucks at the parts store.

Ask for one for a dodge 1993 d250 diesel, and for the wire connector. Or just grab one from the junkyard. Be sure all your wires for the field control have good connections because if they are poor, you will get poor charging or a voltage fluctuation, like I had.
Ok thanks.. So I can just go to autozone and tell them I need a 93 cummins alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
An alternator of a 93 seems to be computer controlled as well. Looks like I need some help.
 
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