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Discussion Starter #1
i blew a head gasket about 3 years ago. i got the head shaved, b/c it did warp alittle. i replaced the gasket and put head studs in. now 3 yrs later im losing anti-freeze, and it is in the same exact spot in the front corner on the passenger side. its not like i am running mega horse power here. and i never get on it, i keep the quadzilla on 1 for fuel economy. i hit 3 once in awhile when i pass someone put other then that nothing fancy. i dont think this should have happened. about 1 year ago the E brake didnt hold and it rolled down the hill and hit a tree. it did some damage pretty much a whole new front end. could this have done something. it hit pretty hard but i drove it for almost a year and it was fine. i did not do the repair the first time so not sure what studs he used. i am going to call him this week and find out. i am going to attempt to do this repair. i am sick of paying labor fees and not knowing how to fix things. should i maybe try and re torque them. im pretty sure the gasket is gone though. any help and or input would be very helpful, thanks
 

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you milled the head but was the top of the block milled to match?
 

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Bleed All American!
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where are you losing antifreeze at?
 

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You could have a cracked block. Look around the block if you haven't. And look for the number 53 :(
 

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How much Boost are you running and did you us a Cummins Head Gasket the last time?
 

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Hemi
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A 53 block makes no difference here!!!!! He said hes losing it out the front corner of the head.
A re-torque most likely wont make a difference now but you may be able to milk it a little longer if you do.
 

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he does have the 53 block read his sig =D as for the head gasket when the last time you retorqued it
 

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53 blocks crack on the water jacket along the passenger side, not out the head.
 

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When I did mine 3.5 years ago, I told the Cummins counter guy I wanted the updated gasket and it was dated May 2007. The front passenger side corner had a little thicker sealant bead printed on it.
I used a single edge razor scraper on the block deck until nothing else would scrape up after an hour of scraping and like you, had the head decked/took .0025" to clean it up.
I installed like Cummins instructed, dry.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The max boost I will run is around 33pounds and that's when I turn her loose. But on average only like 20 cause I don't really turn it up
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Clunk
So what ur saying is that those gaskets r known to blown out in that corner? And back to Dracozy, wouldn't my gasket have blown along to ago if my head and block didn't match up, and how would I get my block done would I have to take the whole engine out. Thanks again guys
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just talked to the guy who did my last gasket job and he used ARP studs and an industrial cummins gasket
 

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I've read there were enough problems that Cummins updated the gasket. I have no data but I could tell the sealer was thicker than what was on the old gasket.
By the way, mine blew at #3 cylinder, allowing high pressure engine oil to enter the cooling system. The passenger side front corner was sealed fine.

If or more like when mine blows out again, I'll do what I did last time....razor scrape the block deck, have the head milled dead flat and get the gasket my engine number calls for from the local Cummins shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
ok thanks to clunk and everyone, is there any little tips or anything to know before i start this job, anything i have to take off you wouldnt think you would or anything like that. i have never done one before so i am prolly opening up a can or worms but i am sick of taking my truck to someone to fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
my 53 stamp is on the left side of the block right above the oil pan
 

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If you have no experience doing this job, then get a manual to follow. Its not exactly easy and it takes alittle bit of skill and alot of common sense. Taking everything apart it fairly straight forward. Just be careful removing the connector tubes and the injectors. They say you need special tools to remove them but it can be done with a little bit of ingenuity. The injectors arent so bad, but you have to be careful with the connector tubes. The tubes come out before the injectors do. If not you will damage a tube or an injector. DO NOT even scratch the sealing surfaces. I found out that a 3/8 female air hose fitting will thread onto the end of them so you can work them out. You just have to grind the edges down. Other than that, the biggest hassle you will have is lifting that gigantic cast iron head. Im not sure how much it weighs... Its really frecken heavy though. 2 people just to carry around heavy. You'd be better off using a hoist. Especially when you put it back on. Make sure the gasket surface is spotless, dry, and free of any oil or residue. And make sure to torque your studs properly. They say to do it obviously when you assemble it, after the first warm up before you drive it, and again after some odd amount of miles.
 

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Use and engine hoist to lift and lower the cylinder head....don't want to mess that new expensive gasket or lose any fingers...lol.

I found lots of good info with backyard type of language in my Haynes repair manual #30041 available at most chain type auto parts stores.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
thanks again guys. someone told me i have to take the cowl off for it to come out is that true
 
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