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Canadian Diesel Junkie
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I won't order anything from a company that will only ship via UPS, it's not a viable option for us Canadians. I once was charged $55.00 in brokerage fees on a $4.50 part.

USPS is awesome, comes right to the post office and no brokerage fees!!!
 

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I've used all 3 shipping companies, and hands down I ship usps to Canada unless the buyer specs someone else. Those hidden "broker" fees are total BS.

mike- I've never heard of the lines fitting THAT badly unless they were damaged in shipping, which would not surprise me at all with "Union Package Smashers".
 

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Surprisingly, the packing was the only thing that was great.

Here's one of the issues with the first set. The clamps were originally installed differently on the first set than they were on the second set even though they looked like they were bent on the same jig. This is after me spending 4 hours working to get the other clamps on after I had to install the lines one by one.



Here's my problem with the second set. I sent Vicky Schied an Email with a picture of this asking her if they brake or wear through because of this particular part, will they be warrantied and Vicky said "Lines are warrantied for breakage not wear occurring from application."

She told me that I could call the company I originally purchased them from and ask them to warranty them for me. Even if they did, I'd get slammed with another brokerage fee.

 

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So all in all, I don't think they do the best job bending them. I'm just going to run them and if they break and are not warrantied, then oh well I guess.
 

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Where they're making contact? I'm not sure I could get it in there. the contact point is about 1.5" away from where the line hooks into the crosstube so it's really hard to bend it.
 

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That stupid bolt i cut the head in half an cut a slot in it to tightin it what pain in the...
 

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Still running my VP lines. i was looking at them today and need to spend a little more time securing them but they arent leaking.
Hey man I take it you budget p pumped your 24v? Could you send me a parts break down I have the opportunity to get a 95 12v parts truck and I’m thinking of p pumping or 12v swapping g my truck would probably like to p pump swap it but the swap kit to buy and lines are disgustingly outrageous
 

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Hey man I take it you budget p pumped your 24v? Could you send me a parts break down I have the opportunity to get a 95 12v parts truck and I’m thinking of p pumping or 12v swapping g my truck would probably like to p pump swap it but the swap kit to buy and lines are disgustingly outrageous
Budget would be MY definition, but certainly not the wife. Granted, I've been acquiring parts trucks and dropping small amounts here and there enough for a Ferrari, but yes, budget works haha. So as for parts break down, I'll give you the abridged, normal humans idea as to what you'll need. I'm so extreme that I'm off the charts with my conversion so it'll take me a second to think back for sure, but here ya go..
P7100 215 for a manual or 180(?) For auto
Line bender
Lines
Injectors (don't go big)
Afc live controller
12v timing cover(pumps don't have the same hole pattern)
Fass or air dog if you don't already have one
Fuel shutoff solenoid and ss70a relay from Larry Bs (I said **** that and built a manual shut off from a rifle cleaning rod that's spring loaded to lock it in place)
Spacer block for intake manifold (think grid heater) since the new lines won't fit with the current set up
I'm sure I'm missing something else but the only thing it really cost me was time, some skin off my knuckles and a handful of noise complaint tickets from the neighbors for using profanity caused by stubborn hard to reach hardware. If I think of anything else, I'll message you. I went the whole way. This poor truck looks like something designed from 1910 it's so basic. I'll send you whatever pics you might want too if that's a help at all. Good luck!
 

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Budget would be MY definition, but certainly not the wife. Granted, I've been acquiring parts trucks and dropping small amounts here and there enough for a Ferrari, but yes, budget works haha. So as for parts break down, I'll give you the abridged, normal humans idea as to what you'll need. I'm so extreme that I'm off the charts with my conversion so it'll take me a second to think back for sure, but here ya go..
P7100 215 for a manual or 180(?) For auto
Line bender
Lines
Injectors (don't go big)
Afc live controller
12v timing cover(pumps don't have the same hole pattern)
Fass or air dog if you don't already have one
Fuel shutoff solenoid and ss70a relay from Larry Bs (I said **** that and built a manual shut off from a rifle cleaning rod that's spring loaded to lock it in place)
Spacer block for intake manifold (think grid heater) since the new lines won't fit with the current set up
I'm sure I'm missing something else but the only thing it really cost me was time, some skin off my knuckles and a handful of noise complaint tickets from the neighbors for using profanity caused by stubborn hard to reach hardware. If I think of anything else, I'll message you. I went the whole way. This poor truck looks like something designed from 1910 it's so basic. I'll send you whatever pics you might want too if that's a help at all. Good luck!
Thanks I really appreciate that my vp is running fine but I don’t want it to die on me when I’m driving, would my stock injectors be okay to use as well as my stock cam and rebend my vp44 fuel lines? Also I thought about running a fuel shut off rod inside of rod set up that goes in the cabin to further go my all mechanical reliability wants but I don’t really want to have crazy HP just want an extremely reliable truck that won’t kick the bucket as I plan on doing long haul trips with it and possibly a secondary WVO setup
 

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Budget would be MY definition, but certainly not the wife. Granted, I've been acquiring parts trucks and dropping small amounts here and there enough for a Ferrari, but yes, budget works haha. So as for parts break down, I'll give you the abridged, normal humans idea as to what you'll need. I'm so extreme that I'm off the charts with my conversion so it'll take me a second to think back for sure, but here ya go..
P7100 215 for a manual or 180(?) For auto
Line bender
Lines
Injectors (don't go big)
Afc live controller
12v timing cover(pumps don't have the same hole pattern)
Fass or air dog if you don't already have one
Fuel shutoff solenoid and ss70a relay from Larry Bs (I said **** that and built a manual shut off from a rifle cleaning rod that's spring loaded to lock it in place)
Spacer block for intake manifold (think grid heater) since the new lines won't fit with the current set up
I'm sure I'm missing something else but the only thing it really cost me was time, some skin off my knuckles and a handful of noise complaint tickets from the neighbors for using profanity caused by stubborn hard to reach hardware. If I think of anything else, I'll message you. I went the whole way. This poor truck looks like something designed from 1910 it's so basic. I'll send you whatever pics you might want too if that's a help at all. Good luck!
Please send pics of your truck I’m interested!
 

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Stock injectors will work fine. The p-pump likes injectors that are set to a lower pop-off pressure but the stock pressure won't hurt the pump.

You can reuse your stock cam. That won't be an issue either. You need to pull the rockers off and use 1/2" dowels through the pushrod holes to catch the tappets and hold them off of the cam.

I used a cheap control cable to work the fuel shut off valve on my truck. It has worked well since I did the swap. I made a little bracket and used springs to bias it to one position; normally open.
 
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