Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum banner

21 - 37 of 37 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,013 Posts
Why not have a go at repairing what you have? Could be as easy as slipping a new bearing in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Wouldn’t he still have to pull the engine to do that? Plus he said he doesn’t have the time or space. That’s going to be well over $1000 in labor I would think but I’m not sure
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,013 Posts
Could be done in the truck so long as the crank isn't damaged.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
From the research I’ve done, since it spun a bearing it’s pretty much a guarantee that there’s damage to the crank. Plus I don’t have an engine hoist. I also don’t have a lot of money right now and I’m working limited hours so it would be about 6 wks before I could have it running again. I‘m less than $4k deep right now and it’s a Laramie 4x4 Dually in decent condition so I think I could just about break even if I sold it right now. I did the math and by the time I would get it running and fix all it’s little quirks I’d be $8k deep for an $8k truck, after spending every spare cent I have for the next 3-4 months. So it would make the most sense to sell it as is and get something else (to replace my current rig), maybe this time something that’s been maintained a little better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
I think you are making a wise decision based on your ability's and fiance. These kind of things can steam roll with the costs when you keep finding additional issues and if you can't do it yourself, it can get pretty expensive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19,294 Posts
NO not head gasket. That comes under the category of "Don't mess with what ain't broke" unless you are doing rings or other inside.

Gaskets to do are Tappet cover, Timing cover and seal, and pan if leaking. Vacuum pump seal.
Valve cover gasket is reusable and seldom needs replacement unless you tear it. Rear main and cover only if leaking.
Otherwise it is best not to mess with things that do not need it.

What year is engine , it is important? $1000 labor is cheap. Remember that block/engine you have is still worth money, a lot of it, as a core to build. Try offering the old engine for the labor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
Did you listen to the video? Not the squeaky sound but the rod knock. It's obvious. The squeak is weird, maybe flex plate. Don't know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,013 Posts
From the research I’ve done, since it spun a bearing it’s pretty much a guarantee that there’s damage to the crank. Plus I don’t have an engine hoist. I also don’t have a lot of money right now and I’m working limited hours so it would be about 6 wks before I could have it running again. I‘m less than $4k deep right now and it’s a Laramie 4x4 Dually in decent condition so I think I could just about break even if I sold it right now. I did the math and by the time I would get it running and fix all it’s little quirks I’d be $8k deep for an $8k truck, after spending every spare cent I have for the next 3-4 months. So it would make the most sense to sell it as is and get something else (to replace my current rig), maybe this time something that’s been maintained a little better.
Alot of the times the soft bearing material gets beat up and the crank is unscathed. Depends how much it was run with the knock.

I understand though, not everyone has the time or motivation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Yes probably a good choice considering how badly these things can snowball. What state are you in? Could be a good deal for a guy with a lot of time 🤘
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,205 Posts
Honestly best thing first pull it out see how bad the damage is go from there. Won't know until you pull the crank if it needs polishing or replacing. If crank is fine and just the bearing is replaced while you have it out replace all the gaskets that are know to leak and a PITA to get to.

Killer Dowel, Front Main, Rear Main, Tappet, Oil Pan, Vac Pump. but really you wont know numbers until its apart and your looking at it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19,294 Posts
Marco is correct if shut down soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
Ok, so I borrowed an engine hoist today and got all the way down to the main cap bolts, but they're crazy tight so I'm gonna borrow an impact gun from work and check it out tomorrow. There were some metal shavings in the oil pan.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19,294 Posts
Should use a 20-24 inch breaker bar. What do the rod bearings look like?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
I tried a 30'' pipe over a ratchet, there's just not much clearance. I haven't checked em yet as it was getting late.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19,294 Posts
Remember righty tighty lefty loosie may get mixed up upside down on your back. What is torque spec on them. Good luck with impact. Is the pan all the way off? How hard was that? How much did you have to lift it or did you pull it clear out?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
Check the rods 1st one at a time. Take a cap off, inspect it and put it back. Rotate the crank and check another. The bad one may be loose before you even take the cap off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #37
I checked it out and got it back together today. #3 rod was missing both bearings, and the crank is scored pretty decent. I only got to drive it for four days 😢. Reaper22, I’m in Washington state, I’ll be putting it up on Craigslist as soon a I get the title in the mail.
 
21 - 37 of 37 Posts
Top