[Alcharger]

Great numbers!!

At exact 1,300-miles:

— 56.5-mph reflects reality pretty well (23-hours).

— 62-mph would have been the Average for doing 70 (if all Interstate; so 21-hrs)

— The “time savings” would have been under three hours as traffic volume interference increases the gap between Set Speed and Average Speed. It’s not just the aero penalty either:

A). Pull Out to Pass Penalty
B). Brake for Slower Penalty
C). Steering Penalty
D). RPM Penalty

— Steer more, change throttle opening more, use brakes more. Each adds to the aero penalty. And the above 1,900-rpm factor would also be at work. (Pull out to Pass is mental/emotional energy; gets one run down earlier in the day).

Two hour change is likelier. Over three is unlikely.

1,300-miles in (2) days is a fair truck driver test (seat cushion, hmmm) as it’s stretching the limits for the energy & awareness necessary to keep safe practice at highest level through a long day.

Perspective: we all do well to the 400-mile mark given adequate preparation. Past that is where White Line Fever sets in and our Reaction Time & Distance are worse. Everyone gets sloppy. (No exceptions).

MPG goes down during the day where all else is the same.

Q: How does one counter this?

A: Leaving earlier to spend less time in higher volume traffic as being alone is success marker for safe operation plus highest MPG. Truck and operator expend less energy.

— If in a big truck given your 57-mph EH, “travel time” would be dead-on 13-hours with a 50-MPH Dispatch Estimate (0230 Departure) to have bought fuel at 1730.

1). Departure Time is crucial.
2). Timing of meals & breaks, same.
Energy to get in those last 250-miles is key.

— With respect, I doubt you left before 0430. Had you done so, the Average MPH would’ve been a bit higher given mainly Interstate. And a few tenths to the MPG. Don’t think this any kind of criticism, it’s to help you or anyone to think about a trip plan.

I’d say you’re feeling pretty darned good about bringing the CTD back up to par with the maintenance (some needed; some you got ahead on), the TLC (gap-covers), and the discipline to allow the CTD to do its best. Congratulations!

Debrief:
— The poly leaf spring-eye bushings are obviously a penalty when empty. Rubber (literally) absorbs vibration.

A). The counter is tire pressure where one doesn’t get below the Dodge Minimum (50-psi on my ‘04 RWD door placard). 50 is above the Load & Pressure Table Minimum (substantially).

— Second part is shock absorber design. I’d rather have a set of KONI on yours than BILSTEIN.

B). Higher than 55-psi (given scale weight confirms placarded use) won’t add enough to MPG to put up with a harsher ride, and that braking/handling/steering is about ideal (as is even tire wear).

The Ace:
PURPLE Ultimate Seat Cushion ($120-$150).

1). Can’t wear it out.
2). Eliminates all the cracks in the road.
3). Alertness seriously extended (no squirming around in seat, leaning towards one side or another to “get comfortable”).

(Shown without cover). Note recess for tailbone)

View attachment 953651

How good is it? I’m pretty sure I couldn’t drive a truck all day without it. (Old injury plus age-related health). And, at 6’2”, 200-lbs and in constant use since 2016 or so . . it won’t wear out. (I also use their Lumbar Cushion. Baby, I float on that seat!).

Truck drivers sit on air-ride seats in an air-ride cab on an air-ride suspension. My CTD is a more punishing ride at the end of a long day.

— Takes about a day to get used to it. Seat has to be re-adjusted to get best results besides ideal posture. Loose full-cut clothing, wallet in shirt, and knee-high compression socks.

Drive Wear lense sunglasses (prescription)


Summation:
— If that trip were to be run again, loading the CTD bed to about 1,000-lbs including the delivery item would give several hundred pounds on return trip to help with vibration-induced fatigue (given that FF/RR tires are at scaled safe minimum). And Ultimate Cushion (plus better posture, etc).

— Best rest breaks & food stops plan is much easier when running a route the second time.

Experience Says:
— My trip-planning 24-MPG isn’t changed by up to 1,000-lbs as tested over a 47,000-mile stretch of flat terrain (but did include having to transit Houston every 350-miles).

At 1,200-lb bed load I could record the minor Gulf Coast difference. (Which would be magnified by hilly terrain). Two-hundred pounds would be a minimum, 3-400 preferable, IMO.

Thanks, I would have never slowed down, concentrated on steering smoothly, etc.. without your coaching. I call it conscious driving! LOL

My air pressures were 50 psi front and rear. I left at 5:30 and didn't see many on the road until I reached Huntsville, AL. Nashville is/was has the most congestion.

1300 miles in 2 days plus time to unload and talk was a stretch for this 69 year old bod. I dressed for the trip. Loose baggy cloths, wallet in the tray, shoes off. I wear prescription sunglasses. Also carry a cooler with at least 2 meals going up. Drinking coffee and water.

I made frequent changes in the seat, using all the configs. I NEED one of those purple seat cushions! I'm going back to Flanagan, IL in October. I'll leave earlier, have a purple cush, lower tire pressure. The road expansion joints were tiring when empty. I drove around the pot holes as well, when possible.

I hope the P cushion helps cut down the shock load of the poly leaf spring bushings. I'll try it out soon. At the track, switching to poly or solid bushings yields faster times. OR in our case, better MPG averages.

My shocks have about 20K on them. Fronts: Rancho RS999279 adjustable and Rear: KYB KG 5196. After changing to poly leaf spring bushings, the truck stability change the most dramatically over any of the other mods. It tracks much better. I had been treating the problem with stiffer shocks, stiffer side wall tires, rear anti roll bar, poly front bushings, better anti roll bar end links, rather than addressing the rubber leaf spring bushings.

I changed out my rear brake calipers in the last 10K just because. I have a set of new front calipers I'll install with rotors and brake pads this week. Again, not because they are worn out, only 40K on them. I want fresh calipers rather that have the caliper stick and drag. I plan to change the calipers every 250K. LOL

Thanks again for your interest and sharing your wealth of information.

 

[mattswaggs]

The early 2003 250-HP engines are better for top MPG when solo (some were NV-4500, had to have NV-5600).

But, loaded and/or towing the 305/555 engine has the overall advantage. The power bump is really the fine-tune HPCR got after field reports made clear that the sweet spot needed help (my belief).

.

The nv 5600 and nv 4500 have almost the same OD ratio. .73 and .75. I think the auto would deliver better mpg with a .69 OD.

 

[Alcharger]

I really need to get a 12v tune. Currently, the truck has EFI live by Firepunk and has their standard 5 tunes. However, they said they could replace one of the tunes with a 12v tune if I took it up there. They claim that their testing has shown no difference in mileage, which is fine because my main reason would be to make the injectors last longer. I know my truck won’t ever get near what you guys are doing since it’s lifted on 35s but I’d like to try to get more than the 15 or so it currently gets. I’m hoping to see an increase with summer weather and fuel. I’d like to get working on replacing the engine sensors too.

I had a 12V EFI Live tune before Rob's MM2 tunes. The EFI Live 12v tune always got better fuel economy than the other tunes, always. If Firepunks 12v tune won't get better mileage, at todays fuel costs, get another tuner. I'm very interested in how long my OE injectors last. IF 66% fewer injector pulses extend the life.

Sensors/relief valves, good grounds and battery cables are all part of the overall health of your truck and results in better starts and better economy.

Truck stability we talked about plays a roll as well. Cheapest mod that helps are the poly leaf spring bushings.

GL

 

[Danderson]

The early 2003 250-HP engines are better for top MPG when solo (some were NV-4500, had to have NV-5600).

But, loaded and/or towing the 305/555 engine has the overall advantage. The power bump is really the fine-tune HPCR got after field reports made clear that the sweet spot needed help (my belief).

.

A co-worker had a 2wd SO auto qclb that never got more than 18 mpg and he commuted on the freeway to work 90% of time. Michelin blades. Conversely a friend had a qcsb NV5600 4wd w/37" and city/freeway beat that every tank. Speedo was adjusted for the tires. I don't know the axle ratio on either.

 

[Alcharger]

After chucking a 24v I cherish the quieter,smoother '07 I have. I heard a 12v tune the other day and it reminded my of my old '98.5.

I HEAR ya! Sometimes I've had enough 12ving and run a 3 injector pulse tune around town. On the highway there is not much noise difference between 12v and 3 pulse.

THEN, sometimes I LIKE rolling into the parking lot/driveway sounding like a 12v. Being able to switch on the fly gives us options.

12v tune is a little smoky. I get a puff on each shift. Tailgaters normally drop back a few car lengths.

 

[2001 Hypertech Cummins]

After chucking a 24v I cherish the quieter,smoother '07 I have. I heard a 12v tune the other day and it reminded my of my old '98.5.

I miss my old 24v. If I could get a mega cab 24v truck I’d have done that in a heartbeat. Just the reliability and cheaper maintenance was fantastic. You could get a whole set of injectors, really nice ones rated for big power, for less than $1k.

I do like my mega cab though. The ease of changing the switch to go up and down in power levels is very nice and just the tuning has a lot more power than my 2nd gen ever had.

The only reason I’d be looking to use a 12v tune is to save the injectors. If I can get them to last a lot longer that would be great. I also wouldn’t be interested if I couldn’t switch off of it with the flip of the switch to go back to a standard 3rd gen tune.

 

[Alcharger]

A co-worker had a 2wd SO auto qclb that never got more than 18 mpg and he commuted on the freeway to work 90% of time. Michelin blades. Conversely a friend had a qcsb NV5600 4wd w/37" and city/freeway beat that every tank. Speedo was adjusted for the tires. I don't know the axle ratio on either.

The older auto trans didn't have a locking converter or an over drive. Converter slip was from 3 to 8%, depending on the converter. It would be an interesting comparison to know what RPM he was running at 65 MPH.

There are so many other variables, driving habits, condition of the truck it's not easy to make direct comparisons.

 

[hpitt74985_1181]

2003 so ca. My mileage on average is 12.5 . I am towing 37.5 ft 5th wheeler.

2003 Dodge Ram dually 3500 5.9 47re

 

[‘04CTD]

The nv 5600 and nv 4500 have almost the same OD ratio. .73 and .75. I think the auto would deliver better mpg with a .69 OD.

True with 6.7L & 68RFE

The ’03 power problem made closer shifts better. And, can’t really tow in OD.
.

 

[mattswaggs]

True with 6.7L & 68RFE

The ’03 power problem made closer shifts better. And, can’t really tow in OD.
.

I thought we were talking empty driving, I don’t think you tow anything ever with the 47re. 😆

 

[hpitt74985_1181]

Got a 4:10 tail. At 2000rpm I am at 65 mph.
I am no speed demon but I hold my own.

2003 Dodge Ram 3500 Dually Pac brake.

 

[steve05ram360]

I had a 12V EFI Live tune before Rob's MM2 tunes. The EFI Live 12v tune always got better fuel economy than the other tunes, always. If Firepunks 12v tune won't get better mileage, at todays fuel costs, get another tuner. I'm very interested in how long my OE injectors last. IF 66% fewer injector pulses extend the life.

Sensors/relief valves, good grounds and battery cables are all part of the overall health of your truck and results in better starts and better economy.

Truck stability we talked about plays a roll as well. Cheapest mod that helps are the poly leaf spring bushings.

GL

Its not 66% fewer events 100% of the time, the stock '05 tune does not use the post event after something like 1500-1600 rpms... I have it trimmed even further and it does not use it but in 8-12 cells below 1409 rpms. And... Ding, the bel just went off, lugging my motor is using all 3 events, should stop that.

 

[j98]

I had to get rid of the 2018 g56 for an auto last summer for full time RVing, since my wife doesn’t do manual. That one for 22-23 highway. Not bad for a 4x4 on 35’s.

Matt, those number are nuts. I tracked mpg in my G56 for 6 months and best I ever saw was 17.8.

Then again, you had a hemi 1/2 tonner as well that could get 22-24 mpg 🥤

 

[mattswaggs]

Matt, those number are nuts. I tracked mpg in my G56 for 6 months and best I ever saw was 17.8.

Then again, you had a hemi 1/2 tonner as well that could get 22-24 mpg 🥤

I’ve had so many trucks and seen so many different mpg averages. My 2014 1500 would get 26 mpg at 70, and my 2016 1500 would get 18.5 at 70. Figure that one out.

My 2013 g56 would get 21.4 mpg, at best stock at 70 and 23 mpg, at best deleted. My 2018 had a lot of work done, fixed blade turbo and all. It did alright if you kept off the throttle.

But I have never had a Cummins that got as bad mpg as this Duramax.

 

[‘04CTD]

Reply to Post #21

(Thanks!)

It’s gratifying to see someone make use of hard-won knowledge. It works! Right down to the little details, like meals.

SHOCKS:
KYB is a Japanese Bilstein knock-off.
Stiffer than it needs to be.

KONI 8850-1014 (lower pressure hydraulic)

— Control of spring only (as leaf doesn’t need the same as coils); handling issues not pertinent. Rancho 9000 adjustable give the best reports I’ve seen for drive-axle changed loads. Not sold it lasts long

I strongly recommend the change.


PURPLE: The combo seat & lumbar cushions are night & day BETTER over seats better than ours.

POSTURE: See recent thread where I detailed proven seat set-up recommendations (funded studies). I wind up HIGH & CLOSE versus most drivers. There’s no more strain. Right posture + cushions means I’m NOT slumped over. And I’m comfortable. Like an orthopedic shoe, I am fitted to seat.


Trip Plan: Get thru Nashville before 0600 or time it to go thru at 0930. I’d choose earlier in the big truck (Nashville went to hell last five years). Stay below traffic flow by 2-3/mph.

No variance from steady-state means I’d choose 58-mph in metro traffic if I thought I could cheat a little using CC.

The Tennessean Truck Stop just over the line from Alabama is a reliable nice place with great restaurant and C-store. (Get off, T-R and immediate T-L). Low MPG penalty example; see Sat View).

— Ramp to re-enter is sharply upwards; good place to expand one’s ACCEL Strategy.


Route:

— Did you take IH-24 from Nashville across to IH-57?

— Or ran farther north to go west on IH-74 out of Indianapolis?

Avoiding major metros is a fundamental for me. More miles doesn’t always mean more fuel burned in a big truck.

I would choose going past Paducah and Land between the Lakes on IH-24 as it’s a much lower traffic volume road (and in better shape). Scenic

IH-74 is characterized by major Midwestern commercial traffic; is not in good shape, relatively, and usually has construction. Truck drivers held back by the two-part speed limit are pushing boundaries which makes it stressful.

IH-57 is a road to get to earlier on that trip as it’s low-congestion. 24 will seem slow and a penalty . . . except once you get to 57. Then it pays off.

— Traffic jams up at Indy. It’s the major Midwestern crossroad. Going around the south side is never fun. And wrecks abound at every Interstate exchange in bad weather. Shorter miles may not pay.

Travel Speed: Next time try 64-MPH. Big trucks are highly conscious of 1-mph differences. Many are governed at 65. Staying below all commercial traffic pays.

More in reduced stress than all else.

— One’s ability to monitor flow of vehicles is heightened.

1). Then, CC cancel and let it slow to get others around. Drop off with foot on throttle to feather getting to 55 or s

2). Hold speed steady as they pass. Once they’re out ahead by over 100-yards, re-engage using downwards terrain.

3). Headlights ON: Always. Makes passing you easier and it’s likelier they’ll move back over at a better distance.

4). The next step up in skill is Traffic Manager:

A). Use of headlights to signal clear to merge back (several high beam flashes)

B). Use of CB to signal same

“All right, Estes, you got it, come on back over”

C). What you can do to keep commercial traffic moving Is being aware of their momentum problem. You see him pull out to psss you at up to 350’ behind you, drop off. . and get him GONE.

D) If they don’t stack up ahead or behind you you’re doing it right.

This has precedence over MPG tenths.

There are other greybeards like you and me out there doing this as they’ve been doing it a few decades. They’re invisible as no one is hindered by their slower pace. This is the ONLY way to get good mpg with a big block gasser. Vortec V8-454 or Dodge V8-440 still running a ThermoQuad.

That ol’ boy flashes you it’s clear to come back over — and maybe notes your CB antenna and uses that — the thanks from you ought to include a compliment on his rig. Bite your tongue and say, “That’s a clean ol’ Chevy” (or, if it’s kinda ugly, you’ll need to lie and say, “that’s a good sounding old Ford”).

Or, maybe a comment on the weather, etc . . as after your thanks it opens the floor to anyone to pipe up. Marks you as one of the good men on the road that day.

Exact same BS on the radio as if you’d walked into the Dairy Queen and seen familiar faces. Or at the tavern.

Send that little paper boat out into the current . . . it’s a prayer.

Needn’t be stated: “Whenever two or more are gathered in my name”

— CB Radio addresses the spiritual side.
And the Evil One will try to block you with his acolytes.

Those who avoid the radio avoid life itself.
Be of good cheer.
.

 

[‘04CTD]

Added some links re N-V-H possible solutions on your “18 to 21” thread.

Noise-Vibration-Harmonics.


5.55/gals per 100-miles at 18-MPG
4.10/gals per 100-miles at 24-MPG

30% Reduction?

At 80% of tank (safe reserve) range increased from 500-miles to 700-miles.

.

 

[Alcharger]

Follow up report:

I was changing out my front brakes today and noticed:

Wet spot under the truck. Upon inspection, my spin on fuel filter was leaking. I wiped off under the truck and turned the filter 1/4 turn. I'll monitor it more closely. No other leads, yeah!

Left front wheel bearing is going out. I thought I heard a rumble in the front. I'm not surprised. This is an OEM part, 245K on it. Timken ordered. Replace the right front awhile back.

Original front calipers are somewhat sloppy, rattle and crusty. New ones on order
Front left, inside, brake pad had less than 3/16". Only went 40K on these OEM pads, not Value Pads. I'm going with Bendix Fleet Metlok MKD965FM Brake Pads.

My 28' car haul trailer has changed how long my brakes and tires last. I finally got it tamed so it's not ruling my truck with load balance, load leveler and poly leaf spring bushings. Exhaust brake kit installed about 10K ago too.

Purple pillow ordered. Can't wait to see the difference. Like '04CTD, I set upright and normally close to the wheel. I moved my position about every hour or so. +23 hours driving over 2 days, my butt is still not the same!

I normally accelerated on the downhill side. Yes, I slow down and flash the big rigs in front of me. I passed only once, a big rig on a two lane road in IL on the return trip. His engine was smoking and he was running under the speed I wanted. Out in farm land, we had a LONG straight stretch to gently over take and pass.

On my return trip to Flanagan, IL this fall, I'll review this thread and apply the information and lessons learned.

 

[Alcharger]

Its not 66% fewer events 100% of the time, the stock '05 tune does not use the post event after something like 1500-1600 rpms... I have it trimmed even further and it does not use it but in 8-12 cells below 1409 rpms. And... Ding, the bel just went off, lugging my motor is using all 3 events, should stop that.

Good info right there! Since both of my 12v tunes were locked, I'll never know how they were tuned.

My EFI Live 12v tune was not as cold natured as the MM3 Rob 12v.
EFI Live would start and run rough when the temp was below 30F. I stopped using this tune until ECT was above 100. It was smoker than the MM3 12v tune.

MM3, Rob, 12v tune automatically runs in 3 event until ECT is above 90F. Rob claims he has the "most" 12v tune out there. I don't know what that means. This 12v tune doesn't start smoothly even when the truck is hot. I start in a 3 event then switch over to 12v. When ECT is below 130 or so, 12v tune rattles. I don't hammer, if ever lol, when the truck is not warmed up on a 12v tune.

When switching from 3 event to 12v my boost gauge drops about 2 psi on the 12v tune. I haven't logged and compared 3 event to 12v tunes yet.

We will have a sample of 1, my truck, to compare how long OEM injectors last with ATF/2SO and a 12v tune!

 

[2001 Hypertech Cummins]

Good info right there! Since both of my 12v tunes were locked, I'll never know how they were tuned.

My EFI Live 12v tune was not as cold natured as the MM3 Rob 12v.
EFI Live would start and run rough when the temp was below 30F. I stopped using this tune until ECT was above 100. It was smoker than the MM3 12v tune.

MM3, Rob, 12v tune automatically runs in 3 event until ECT is above 90F. Rob claims he has the "most" 12v tune out there. I don't know what that means. This 12v tune doesn't start smoothly even when the truck is hot. I start in a 3 event then switch over to 12v. When ECT is below 130 or so, 12v tune rattles. I don't hammer, if ever lol, when the truck is not warmed up on a 12v tune.

When switching from 3 event to 12v my boost gauge drops about 2 psi on the 12v tune. I haven't logged and compared 3 event to 12v tunes yet.

We will have a sample of 1, my truck, to compare how long OEM injectors last with ATF/2SO and a 12v tune!

So, were you able to have Rob’s 12v tune flashed into one of the tune slots for your EFI live without changing the others or did you have to buy the whole tune package from him?

 

[Alcharger]

So, were you able to have Rob’s 12v tune flashed into one of the tune slots for your EFI live without changing the others or did you have to buy the whole tune package from him?

I bought the entire package. I wanted to upgrade my gauges from a 1st generation Edge. The MM3 DD was a nice upgrade. I didn't have a tune switch on EFI Live. I sprung for the switch on the fly option on MM3 as well.

EFI Live box is pretty much a paper weight if one changes tuners. MM3 is much, much faster processor and upgrade all the way around.