[‘04CTD]

24+ MPG True

Great numbers!!

At exact 1,300-miles:

— 56.5-mph reflects reality pretty well (23-hours).

— 62-mph would have been the Average for doing 70 (if all Interstate; so 21-hrs)

— The “time savings” would have been under three hours as traffic volume interference increases the gap between Set Speed and Average Speed. It’s not just the aero penalty either:

A). Pull Out to Pass Penalty
B). Brake for Slower Penalty
C). Steering Penalty
D). RPM Penalty

— Steer more, change throttle opening more, use brakes more. Each adds to the aero penalty. And the above 1,900-rpm factor would also be at work. (Pull out to Pass is mental/emotional energy; gets one run down earlier in the day).

Two hour change is likelier. Over three is unlikely.

1,300-miles in (2) days is a fair truck driver test (seat cushion, hmmm) as it’s stretching the limits for the energy & awareness necessary to keep safe practice at highest level through a long day.

Perspective: we all do well to the 400-mile mark given adequate preparation. Past that is where White Line Fever sets in and our Reaction Time & Distance are worse. Everyone gets sloppy. (No exceptions).

MPG goes down during the day where all else is the same.

Q: How does one counter this?

A: Leaving earlier to spend less time in higher volume traffic as being alone is success marker for safe operation plus highest MPG. Truck and operator expend less energy.

— If in a big truck given your 57-mph EH, “travel time” would be dead-on 13-hours with a 50-MPH Dispatch Estimate (0230 Departure) to have bought fuel at 1730.

1). Departure Time is crucial.
2). Timing of meals & breaks, same.
Energy to get in those last 250-miles is key.

— With respect, I doubt you left before 0430. Had you done so, the Average MPH would’ve been a bit higher given mainly Interstate. And a few tenths to the MPG. Don’t think this any kind of criticism, it’s to help you or anyone to think about a trip plan.

I’d say you’re feeling pretty darned good about bringing the CTD back up to par with the maintenance (some needed; some you got ahead on), the TLC (gap-covers), and the discipline to allow the CTD to do its best. Congratulations!

Debrief:
— The poly leaf spring-eye bushings are obviously a penalty when empty. Rubber (literally) absorbs vibration.

A). The counter is tire pressure where one doesn’t get below the Dodge Minimum (50-psi on my ‘04 RWD door placard). 50 is above the Load & Pressure Table Minimum (substantially).

— Second part is shock absorber design. I’d rather have a set of KONI on yours than BILSTEIN.

B). Higher than 55-psi (given scale weight confirms placarded use) won’t add enough to MPG to put up with a harsher ride, and that braking/handling/steering is about ideal (as is even tire wear).

The Ace:
PURPLE Ultimate Seat Cushion ($120-$150).

1). Can’t wear it out.
2). Eliminates all the cracks in the road.
3). Alertness seriously extended (no squirming around in seat, leaning towards one side or another to “get comfortable”).

(Shown without cover). Note recess for tailbone)

How good is it? I’m pretty sure I couldn’t drive a truck all day without it. (Old injury plus age-related health). And, at 6’2”, 200-lbs and in constant use since 2016 or so . . it won’t wear out. (I also use their Lumbar Cushion. Baby, I float on that seat!).

Truck drivers sit on air-ride seats in an air-ride cab on an air-ride suspension. My CTD is a more punishing ride at the end of a long day.

— Takes about a day to get used to it. Seat has to be re-adjusted to get best results besides ideal posture. Loose full-cut clothing, wallet in shirt, and knee-high compression socks.

Drive Wear lense sunglasses (prescription)


Summation:
— If that trip were to be run again, loading the CTD bed to about 1,000-lbs including the delivery item would give several hundred pounds on return trip to help with vibration-induced fatigue (given that FF/RR tires are at scaled safe minimum). And Ultimate Cushion (plus better posture, etc).

— Best rest breaks & food stops plan is much easier when running a route the second time.

Experience Says:
— My trip-planning 24-MPG isn’t changed by up to 1,000-lbs as tested over a 47,000-mile stretch of flat terrain (but did include having to transit Houston every 350-miles).

At 1,200-lb bed load I could record the minor Gulf Coast difference. (Which would be magnified by hilly terrain). Two-hundred pounds would be a minimum, 3-400 preferable, IMO.

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[‘04CTD]

See thread (2010-2012):

Best rpm for fuel economy

(just bumped it)

VG graph & explanation.



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[‘04CTD]

If you have an HO '04 you have the most efficient 5.9 CR ever made.

The early 2003 250-HP engines are better for top MPG when solo (some were NV-4500, had to have NV-5600).

But, loaded and/or towing the 305/555 engine has the overall advantage. The power bump is really the fine-tune HPCR got after field reports made clear that the sweet spot needed help (my belief).

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[‘04CTD]

The nv 5600 and nv 4500 have almost the same OD ratio. .73 and .75. I think the auto would deliver better mpg with a .69 OD.

True with 6.7L & 68RFE

The ’03 power problem made closer shifts better. And, can’t really tow in OD.
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[‘04CTD]

Reply to Post #21

(Thanks!)

It’s gratifying to see someone make use of hard-won knowledge. It works! Right down to the little details, like meals.

SHOCKS:
KYB is a Japanese Bilstein knock-off.
Stiffer than it needs to be.

KONI 8850-1014 (lower pressure hydraulic)

— Control of spring only (as leaf doesn’t need the same as coils); handling issues not pertinent. Rancho 9000 adjustable give the best reports I’ve seen for drive-axle changed loads. Not sold it lasts long

I strongly recommend the change.


PURPLE: The combo seat & lumbar cushions are night & day BETTER over seats better than ours.

POSTURE: See recent thread where I detailed proven seat set-up recommendations (funded studies). I wind up HIGH & CLOSE versus most drivers. There’s no more strain. Right posture + cushions means I’m NOT slumped over. And I’m comfortable. Like an orthopedic shoe, I am fitted to seat.


Trip Plan: Get thru Nashville before 0600 or time it to go thru at 0930. I’d choose earlier in the big truck (Nashville went to hell last five years). Stay below traffic flow by 2-3/mph.

No variance from steady-state means I’d choose 58-mph in metro traffic if I thought I could cheat a little using CC.

The Tennessean Truck Stop just over the line from Alabama is a reliable nice place with great restaurant and C-store. (Get off, T-R and immediate T-L). Low MPG penalty example; see Sat View).

— Ramp to re-enter is sharply upwards; good place to expand one’s ACCEL Strategy.


Route:

— Did you take IH-24 from Nashville across to IH-57?

— Or ran farther north to go west on IH-74 out of Indianapolis?

Avoiding major metros is a fundamental for me. More miles doesn’t always mean more fuel burned in a big truck.

I would choose going past Paducah and Land between the Lakes on IH-24 as it’s a much lower traffic volume road (and in better shape). Scenic

IH-74 is characterized by major Midwestern commercial traffic; is not in good shape, relatively, and usually has construction. Truck drivers held back by the two-part speed limit are pushing boundaries which makes it stressful.

IH-57 is a road to get to earlier on that trip as it’s low-congestion. 24 will seem slow and a penalty . . . except once you get to 57. Then it pays off.

— Traffic jams up at Indy. It’s the major Midwestern crossroad. Going around the south side is never fun. And wrecks abound at every Interstate exchange in bad weather. Shorter miles may not pay.

Travel Speed: Next time try 64-MPH. Big trucks are highly conscious of 1-mph differences. Many are governed at 65. Staying below all commercial traffic pays.

More in reduced stress than all else.

— One’s ability to monitor flow of vehicles is heightened.

1). Then, CC cancel and let it slow to get others around. Drop off with foot on throttle to feather getting to 55 or s

2). Hold speed steady as they pass. Once they’re out ahead by over 100-yards, re-engage using downwards terrain.

3). Headlights ON: Always. Makes passing you easier and it’s likelier they’ll move back over at a better distance.

4). The next step up in skill is Traffic Manager:

A). Use of headlights to signal clear to merge back (several high beam flashes)

B). Use of CB to signal same

“All right, Estes, you got it, come on back over”

C). What you can do to keep commercial traffic moving Is being aware of their momentum problem. You see him pull out to psss you at up to 350’ behind you, drop off. . and get him GONE.

D) If they don’t stack up ahead or behind you you’re doing it right.

This has precedence over MPG tenths.

There are other greybeards like you and me out there doing this as they’ve been doing it a few decades. They’re invisible as no one is hindered by their slower pace. This is the ONLY way to get good mpg with a big block gasser. Vortec V8-454 or Dodge V8-440 still running a ThermoQuad.

That ol’ boy flashes you it’s clear to come back over — and maybe notes your CB antenna and uses that — the thanks from you ought to include a compliment on his rig. Bite your tongue and say, “That’s a clean ol’ Chevy” (or, if it’s kinda ugly, you’ll need to lie and say, “that’s a good sounding old Ford”).

Or, maybe a comment on the weather, etc . . as after your thanks it opens the floor to anyone to pipe up. Marks you as one of the good men on the road that day.

Exact same BS on the radio as if you’d walked into the Dairy Queen and seen familiar faces. Or at the tavern.

Send that little paper boat out into the current . . . it’s a prayer.

Needn’t be stated: “Whenever two or more are gathered in my name”

— CB Radio addresses the spiritual side.
And the Evil One will try to block you with his acolytes.

Those who avoid the radio avoid life itself.
Be of good cheer.
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[‘04CTD]

Added some links re N-V-H possible solutions on your “18 to 21” thread.

Noise-Vibration-Harmonics.


5.55/gals per 100-miles at 18-MPG
4.10/gals per 100-miles at 24-MPG

30% Reduction?

At 80% of tank (safe reserve) range increased from 500-miles to 700-miles.

.

 

[‘04CTD]

Follow up report:

I was changing out my front brakes today and noticed:

Wet spot under the truck. Upon inspection, my spin on fuel filter was leaking. I wiped off under the truck and turned the filter 1/4 turn. I'll monitor it more closely. No other leads, yeah!

Left front wheel bearing is going out. I thought I heard a rumble in the front. I'm not surprised. This is an OEM part, 245K on it. Timken ordered. Replace the right front awhile back.

Original front calipers are somewhat sloppy, rattle and crusty. New ones on order
Front left, inside, brake pad had less than 3/16". Only went 40K on these OEM pads, not Value Pads. I'm going with Bendix Fleet Metlok MKD965FM Brake Pads.

My 28' car haul trailer has changed how long my brakes and tires last. I finally got it tamed so it's not ruling my truck with load balance, load leveler and poly leaf spring bushings. Exhaust brake kit installed about 10K ago too.

Purple pillow ordered. Can't wait to see the difference. Like '04CTD, I set upright and normally close to the wheel. I moved my position about every hour or so. +23 hours driving over 2 days, my butt is still not the same!

I normally accelerated on the downhill side. Yes, I slow down and flash the big rigs in front of me. I passed only once, a big rig on a two lane road in IL on the return trip. His engine was smoking and he was running under the speed I wanted. Out in farm land, we had a LONG straight stretch to gently over take and pass.

On my return trip to Flanagan, IL this fall, I'll review this thread and apply the information and lessons learned.

Upgrades for Driver Fatigue Reduction
(Written from truck driver perspective for anyone reading about FE)

Forgot to mention I use Extreme Outdoor VELCRO in (4) longitudinal cut-to-fit strips to “place” the biggest PURPLE cushion.

1). Tilt seat back maximum. Get rear of cushion located as close to rear of seat cushion as possible.

2). Bring seat back up and allow just a little interference. I eyeball the front of the cushion as alignment guide to then remove and install strips on cushion. Two hands to drop into place and press down.

3). Then butter knife to separate VELCRO and use roller or similar to firmly get truck seat cushion “glued” down. All directions.

4). Align PURPLE and drop it down.

— Done in this manner in big truck (where we have a sliding seat pan makes this easier) it will stay in place 90,000-miles.

Granted, some guys wear out cover & bolster on truck seat getting in/out (I don’t) so maybe it won’t last as long for them.

Not using VELCRO the cushion will move around and that’s not desirable (at all).

Should you someday add the lumbar cushion it’s mounted same way (once seat back strap adjusted). It’s more likely to move over time. (Zero seat lumbar adjusted). In some big trucks I’ve used paracord to go around headrest to support lumbar strap on seat rear; keep it from moving down or around)

The cushion pair literally allow me to float above the seat itself. Shoulders back, and no strain given posture to vehicle controls is ideal.

Biggest seat posture adjustment is no pressure under thighs at knees.

Cushions in place, posture, etc . . . it’ll take thirty years off ya.

Use butter knife to gently separate any time you want to remove & wash cover.

Temperature

1). As a truck driver (in that seat to make my living) I don’t always bring up the last part:

Washable medical/grade sheepskin “vest” (as shown). Not cheap, is the reason why.

There are less expensive alternatives

Cool in summer, warm in winter. Allows airflow around body.

— My ex-military, now commercial aviation pilot son and I have discussed what is standard transport aircraft issue so as to focus on quality.

2). Body temps. My father & grandfather — and I — also chose wool trousers as best. Traveled US, Canada & Mexico weeks at a time in trailer-towing. Long-rise & full cut. Tropical worsted or Army-issue winter. I use suspenders to avoid waist-pinch (under square cut shirt not tucked in).

On a long day cotton pants work against your best outcome.

— Coveralls to slip into you have to get out and get dirty.

Point:
Wool atop of wool is fantastic temperature regulation.

12-hour days at the wheel (I usually drive nine and workday of twelve as default) shows me all these pieces worth your consideration.

— Sweat evaporates (unload tanker on hot day, etc) and I have a barrier against being uncomfortable as my “skin pressure” is spread across a larger area than when against fabric alone.

— Use a rake to comb the sheepskin once in awhile. Vacuum.


Vibration:
Ever wonder why all truck drivers gain weight after they start the job? Constant inflammation due to vibration. (It’s not diet, lack of exercise, etc; THIS is first cause.)

Below are Anti-vibration goatskin/fabric fingerless gloves. Ensolite in the palms. You run a jackhammer or some other air-tools and you’ll lose nerve endings you do it long enough.

— In the KW (steering wheel almost horizontal compared to pickup truck) it’s easy to do most wheel work with the palms. Goatskin gives the traction I don’t need to have fingers curled most of the day. And I’m that much better isolated from vibration all day long.

The combination of seat upgrades, wool trousers, and AV gloves ($17) really, really helps with an occupational hazard.

600-mile day and I gotta start in Chicagoland . . ain’t no big deal, now.

My TRUCK ANTI-VIBRATION upgrades are at $500+ at this point. About three days net pay.

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[‘04CTD]

I LIKE that. I'll look for one. I'm thinking it may need to be removed when towing in the summer. Any thoughts on this?

I wouldn’t.

Air Dam 10” clearance to 7” a better choice.

It’s also my belief (can’t prove it) that rear fenderwell liners are a good idea re FE.

Covering the body-pinch to frame-rail space is going to do more than worrying over the truck front end. (#3, below).

Could use a variety of materials. I’m tending towards wanting to use expanded metal and overlay with geotextile fabric (atop; metal on ground-side).

Doesn’t have to be super-strong. It’s gonna get beat up, so easier R&R is a good thing


FE HIGHWAY GAIN

Will be about exit transitions

First up a box sits on tailgate to lengthen body in conjunction with tonneau cover.

Second is the real deal: an Aerolid

Here shown extended using a hitch receiver
platform and box.

Your truck interior db will drop enough you thought you installed extra acoustic treatment.

Dealing with headwinds or quartering b crosswinds, this will be what reduces counter-steering.

The nose of the vehicle is little compared to the flow interruption of the cab and how to re-attach flow afterwards PRIOR to exit.
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[‘04CTD]

Aero Reference Cheatsheet

PDF

 

[‘04CTD]

Hey Steve, we didn't get the pic. Please post it. Thanks

Shows up on mine. A real fine ‘04 like mine Not one a then fugly ‘05’s or ‘06’s

 

[‘04CTD]

Big Dave

Air Dam Test plus comments.

3.08 Final Gear

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[‘04CTD]

GREAT READ! Thanks

Gosh, my old truck with some tape, 12v tune and driving techniques was not that far off the best of the best. 27 MPG vs my 25.6 MPG. I think if we put our more effort into it, we could best 27 MPH. Stuff like better driving techniques, ground effects and such.

To be fair, boosted, turbo charged, and diesel are more effect over naturally aspirated gas burner.

I'll clean up my experimental tape on the truck some and call it a day. Others can lead the charge.

There’s at least one 2003 is at 30-MPG pretty much a factory fluke according to the owner (reported around 2006; a guy with a rep to protect)

At 58-MPH/1,725-rpm it wasn’t anything unusual I’d get 27-MPG on my cross-Texas commute circa 2009-10. Best high was 28.

I always filled at the same two places and in the same manner. No town miles in that. Straight highway. 325-miles. Same places to take breaks en route. (Trip grand total was 350-miles).

I use 24-MPG as the predicted fuel burn (as it never dropped below that with adverse conditions).

My truck gets 24 is the fair way to state it.

— At 55-mph or a touch lower it was 30+. (Mine needs a touch of gearing help to bump that 55-58 rpm range to 58-62).

At 1,840-rpm you’re on the very edge of running the engine too fast. (I’m going to call it a piston-speed problem).

 

[‘04CTD]

I wonder if they listed these mods from most effective to least effective.

I've experimented with covering the grill on imports and my 2500 in the winter. We saw from 1 to 2 MPG gain. For a quick test, we used a stretch wrap material over the front grills. I made some grill covers for the truck and held them in place, behind the grill with zip ties. I just threw them away!

Fender liners removal may or may not improve MPG. Our testing on cars showed different results. Many cars today have vented wheel liners to help.

I just toured a vintage race car museum. These guys were all aero. The cars had full bottom aluminum covers. Even our mass produced cars today have plastic covers under the car to improve aero.

Wind tunnel tests have shown the front, where air attaches yields the most gains. We learned this when racing boats. We spent countless hours fairing the hulls. The entry point always got the most love.

But we have a gigantic cooling need. Just in case. Determines frontal shape and openings not open to much change.

Why I’m not in favor of tempting fate.

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[‘04CTD]

RPM Economy thread I bumped a couple of days ago.

Red dot & White Dot are the discussion: he brackets the sweet spot.

This is where choice of travel speed (and use of CTD assertive CC) needs to be considered.

— It’s not exact travel speed vs rpm (outside of aero prnalty) it’s also available power at lowest penalty on an upgrade.

To echo your sentiment, much as I’d like to have a GV Overdrive to split DIRECT while Towing and 6/OD would really stretch things out right smooth to a 2.91 . . . it’s not going to be in my budget.

.

 

[‘04CTD]

So, back when you were running the roads at a sloppy 18-mpg in a 7,500-lb CTD . . .

. . you’d obviously have passed me in this rig.

Just remember that on a good day I’d be near 17-MPG with this 62’ combination (over 17,000-lbs).

10,000-lbs heavier

Kinda lends perspective, don’t it.

Travel time for 300’ at 6-hours. You were running 70 it’d be 4.75. Be damned funny we left the same place, you later than me, and met up at the fuel pump having run the same miles over the same road.

I got used to others disbelieving me a very long time ago. You might later been telling your friends at the deer lease about the liar at the fuel stop (typical response), right?

You topped off with 15.5-gals and I bought 18. (“That guys full of it he just ran 300-miles on that amount”).

The Aero Penalty of a Travel Trailer is baseline 40%. Can trend down for my type of trailer.

What’s 17 X 1.41?
24-mpg
(My average is 15)

Remember my comment about driving always as if towing as that’s the job it pays to stay in practice

So,

Shove that White Dot in map above a little left (1,750) and drop it a hair and that’s where I’d be (if it were a 555 map; drop the dark bullseye lower also).

You’d best believe these trucks can do it.
But can the operator?


(That’s a trailer I sold circa 2009).

1983 33’ Silver Streak

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[‘04CTD]

WOW!

All the above confirms our CTDs can be/are darn efficient trucks!

I haven't thought one moment what was limiting our MPG above 1850 RPM. Could be a combination of internal and external factors. I'm not going to hurt my head over this to much, just look for the sweet spot to operate.

We are building a naturally aspirated, push rod, V-8, Gen 3 Hemi. LONG stroke, extremely high piston speeds, 8,000 RPM. It will make between 2.2 and 2.6 HP/Cu In displacement at 8,000 RPM. As a comparison, street cars are making about 1.6 to 1.8 HP/Cu In at 5,000 RPM. Granted, we are not constricted with noise, pollution, pump gas, fits under a hood, etc. We have studied piston speeds as well as a hoist of other variables. Our CTDs have very low piston speeds in comparison.

There are so many variables, this could be a PHD's thesis and still not get it all.

I'm going to pick the low hanging fruit mods for my ol truck AND just might keep it awhile longer!

Big trucks & Trains are looking for 11-M/S piston speed. CTD somewhere between that and a cars typical 14-M/S.

As cpitock noted yesterday, (paraphrased) the trans gears ain’t dialed in for it. (28-MPG thread).

The GP BSFC map for basic TD understanding .

A


The Dyno Room version (2003)

Wayne Gerdes running a 2016

The consistency is unforgettable.

24.4-MPG at 65 ain’t a fluke.

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[‘04CTD]

ALL the above is GOLD. Or $$ is ones pocket. Thanks for posting this!

I'm going to have a conversation with my tuner about improving his MPG tune and/or 12V. I know we left MPG on the table with both of these tunes. Rob has 2 12v tunes, standard power and Sporty Power. I have the Sporty Power 12V tune.

Great!

Because one trip does not an average make.

My 24 is predicated on 47,000-miles of records over about two years.

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[‘04CTD]

We got our oil sample results back from Blackstone today. I confess, this is my second oil sample test, ever. I had an old sample container on the shelf, those the sample date is wrong on the test.

I like there is next to no fuel or antifreeze in the oil. An indication the injectors and head gasket are okay.

This sample was after 10K of Stiction Eliminator oil treatment. Fuel gets 8 and 8 oz 2SO and AFT per 30 gallons.

What do ya think?? View attachment 953945

Asking ordinary guys is asking for, “well-intentioned, but . . . .”

I started using Terry Dyson (Dyson Analysis) a little over 20-years ago. As a certified tribologist he can read deeper into a UOA than what the lab rats have ability.

Trend Over Time (ToT) is what you want, IMO.

When I got Ol’ Lightnin’ back in ‘07 I changed to T6 5W-40 Rotella for two reasons:

1). The engine turned over more easily than with a premium 15W-40 even in summer in hot-as-hell Texas; and,

2). Terry told me the numbers were very good with an HPCR Cummins on that brew.

— Earlier vehicles we’d owned (when I was married) I’d worked with him to get wear numbers to nil.

I was a very early member at BITOG (Bob is the Oil Guy) and on earlier boards. You’ll find a UOA sub forum they call HD Diesel (to separate it from passenger car diesels) where you can compare.

— Just don’t spend much time with those who post. Oil chemistry is arcane. There are some Dudley Do-Rights aggravating as hell.

— Read all Doug Hillary posts you wish to be adequately educated in understanding truck fleet trends (as it applies to us doing more than commuting).

Past no obvious problems most of us can spot on a UOA, I’d recommend Terry or someone like him. He’s on retainer with several racing teams.

— Oil analysis may not save an engine . . . its in creating favorable conditions as an established boundary-set, THEN are discrepancies obvious to the tribologist.

Truck Spec
Climate
Terrain
Operator (meaning job description & motivation)

Thus — as with Cummins & Kenworth White Papers on FE — the fuel burn priority list are the factors he needs to focus for your situation.

— You’ll find that his work (or anyone else’s) needs Average MPG & Average MPH plus lifetime gallons consumed to make for best advice (the truck fleet model). Few non-commercial operators do, so chart up your very best guesses. And start keeping records.

A CTD Dodge is a 350k miles & 20k gallon engine (B50) before replacement. 50% won’t make it to where those two points meet on a graph. Needs averages of 35-MPH & 17.5-MPG to meet that goal as an ideal.

— I see it as do some fleets: Renew whole truck at 200k (injectors are “the major tune-up”) and proceed to 400k. Most of us will age out on reliability we keep them long enough versus fleet spec.

Last I used him his packaged services were quite reasonable. I hope he hasn’t retired.

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[‘04CTD]

IAT
MAP
Rail pressure relief valve
Fuel Control Actuator
Rail Pressure

And HD 12V grounds plus fat-girl cabling performance.

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[‘04CTD]

Thanks for the input. I didn't stress on the high iron content in my last oil analysis at 155,000 miles.

I was mostly curious what was in the oil after running 10K with Stiction Elimination oil treatment. An added bonus, no fuel or antifreeze in the oil. The higher than normal viscosity may have been SE cleaning up the engine.

When my fuel injectors give some indicators they are going out, I'll grab another oil sample for analysis or at 350K, which ever comes first.

I'll be disappointed if my CTD only goes 350K. My average MPH is 30.9. No telling my average MPG. The first owner DD drove it around Houston and I use the truck to run errands as well as towing and solo trips.

I agree, most folks run these trucks until the quit, then work on them. I have no evidence and firmly believe, not getting ahead of items like batteries, battery cables and grounds leads to starter and alternator problems. That might lead to killing the ECU. Running sensors until they throw a code or quit falls into the same category. It's a snow ball effect.

Side note: Based on your nudge, I have engine and trans mounts on order. I'll post up the results. I hope that's about all the renewal it needs for another 20K.

Got to reading over at BITOG to update myself after your UOA reminder. Standard rule of thumb is that off-shelf products have all the money in marketing, not the product. Smaller firms, not so.

HPL Engine Cleaner

HPL website

BITOG discussion

Is getting traction. MolaKule impressed tells me it’s worth a run. Changing to their premium 5W-40 now on my list as I’m overdue for a change.

— I already run 1-year/15k OCI with T6 unless a fair amount of towing. Am concerned about availability of anything quality near future, not just oil. DONALDSON ELF-7349 filters. (A bypass filter I figure out which one).

— A note about the standard spin-on. No matter how good they don’t (can’t) do that much. “Quality” worthwhile, IMO, but won’t change problems occurring (if that’s the case).

— 4-5/yrs use unless I work it harder. Their crankcase cleaner beforehand then swap over. (50-60k outside).

Since any oil I’d want looks like I’d have to order, it’s this or Schaeffers. (Their #132 is worth having on hand. A small add — less than standard dose — is nice stuff. Penetro makes it worthy this way, IMO. All sorts of GP uses. I add it to my oil dispenser that’s used for about everything: Acetone + synthetic ATF and few “secret ingredients” (ha!)


A comp for you I ran across

Rotella T6 Comp


Now, what might a crankcase cleaner do for MPG? This one is getting carbon out of the engines being maintained by autists and experts. That shouldn’t — quite — be happening.

Rule of Thumb, again, is that a clean engine (rings; oil control ring especially = free to move) allows engine oil to best lubricate & control heat as it’s designed to do.

There is potential for lower internal friction and better combustion efficiency past lower potential wear & tear.

And an oil that comes in at above spec minimum is worth the expense for some customers. (Me).

— I don’t much give a damn about fleet reports as they run high miles in short years. Aren’t keeping them 20-years. Or that my 555-spec engine is easy on oil.

@Alcharger, I know you’re familiar with these ideas, but figured I’d add it as context for others.

.