Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,220 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So when I changed my fuel filters earlier this week I tried to research how others did it. Well there are NO videos (I know about Pd Diesel Powers video) as of today that show from start to finish how to change the rear fuel filter on 2019 and newer trucks.

Well I began to research more, there is nothing out on the internet as of today and no "how to" guides or videos. Plus some have asked about the fuel/water sensor and so forth. Well I decided to change my filter again today and do a video. So here you go. Enjoy.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
423 Posts
Sure did like and appreciate your talent. That was a lot of work and discomfort that readers and viewers should praise you for.

One observation is that by adding a drain hose onto that drain pipe you could just leave the valve open while turning. That is assuming the drain holes will just revolve around inside a bucket or whatever you catch the fuel in.

Next observation is that the mounting for the housing seems a bit flimsy. You seemed to be using a lot of torque to both get it off and back on. Glad the darn mounting did not break off.

Now one question. That tube with what looks like a float inside and those two pins - what moves? Guessing there is some kind of fitting at the bottom that those pins go in and turn with the cap. If they just hang lose in the fuel/water I guess there would be some electric current moving through the water to make a circuit. Maybe the whole tube rotates with the bottom as it is turned. How the heck does that work?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,220 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Sure did like and appreciate your talent. That was a lot of work and discomfort that readers and viewers should praise you for.

One observation is that by adding a drain hose onto that drain pipe you could just leave the valve open while turning. That is assuming the drain holes will just revolve around inside a bucket or whatever you catch the fuel in.

Next observation is that the mounting for the housing seems a bit flimsy. You seemed to be using a lot of torque to both get it off and back on. Glad the darn mounting did not break off.

Now one question. That tube with what looks like a float inside and those two pins - what moves? Guessing there is some kind of fitting at the bottom that those pins go in and turn with the cap. If they just hang lose in the fuel/water I guess there would be some electric current moving through the water to make a circuit. Maybe the whole tube rotates with the bottom as it is turned. How the heck does that work?
Thanks. Yeah the first time I changed this filter I did put a hose on the end of the drain pipe but fuel came out of the turn nob too and fuel still went every where. And when I opened the cap more fuel just went every where. I learned that using a large catching mechanism was the best way to stay dry.

At first glance and when you put your hands on the housing it looks and feels sturdy however once you put a wrench on it thats a different story. That cap was on super tight the first time I changed it. And I felt like I could have ripped the entire housing off. But it stayed on. Don't get me wrong, the housing is secured to the frame where its bolted to but adding any kind of torque to it will cause it to move around. It did look like I put a lot of torque but I really didn't, I have small hands (size small in mens) so it just looks like a lot of torque was applied.

To answer your question, the two pins don't move they are secure and do not move up into the fitting. The tube itself is also pretty secure and doesn't move. Although I didn't really try to rotate it but while I was cleaning the inside of the canister I did clean it or wipe it down and it felt secure.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 10%more

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Very educational, thanks for the video. A few questions, what’s the socket size you used, filter PN and torque specs when tightening.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,220 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Very educational, thanks for the video. A few questions, what’s the socket size you used, filter PN and torque specs when tightening.
Thanks. The socket size is 28 MM and the manual doesn't give a torque spec for the rear filter, however it does give a torque spec for the engine mounted filter at 22.5 ft lbs. So I assume its the same. The Filter Part number is FS_MOP68436631AA. You can also find it on Genos Garage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
104 Posts
Thanks for taking the time and effort to put together a great video.
I did not know they changed the filter type for 2019/20 Cummins.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 99dodge

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
183 Posts
A lot of speculation on the water in filter sensor location, thanks for clarifying that issue. The way I see it the fuel stopped draining because of the vacuum. What about connecting a hose and blowing into the canister drain fitting, then drain remaining fuel? When you broke the seal on the canister, that broke the vacuum and allowed it to drain completely. I’ll be doing mine soon and glad you posted the video, very informative. Thanks
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,220 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
A lot of speculation on the water in filter sensor location, thanks for clarifying that issue. The way I see it the fuel stopped draining because of the vacuum. What about connecting a hose and blowing into the canister drain fitting, then drain remaining fuel? When you broke the seal on the canister, that broke the vacuum and allowed it to drain completely. I’ll be doing mine soon and glad you posted the video, very informative. Thanks
You’re welcome. Yeah there was a lot of speculation about the WiF sensor, another reason why I made the video so I could clarify that up.

The first time I changed the filter I did put a hose on it but didn’t think about breaking the vacuum on the seal and its effect, hence why I was covered in diesel. The hose works...kind of...but fuel still went every where as fuel also came out of the drain plug and not just the hose pipe area. Fuel was running down the inside and outside of the hose, ended up on the drive shaft (same as PD Diesel Power when he did his) and so forth. The way I did it in the video was the driest and cleanest way I could do it by using a huge funnel to drain the fuel into a catch pan.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
Thanks for posting the video.
I'm a newbie to diesel engines. Question for the OP or anyone else with more experience: Have you considered sliding the filter into place so that the top notches line up, and then screw on the bottom piece? Or would the filter fall off. I'm wondering if the filter would stay in place if you did that.
I'm asking because it's seems odd to design a filter with notches that engage inside and after you start rotating the assembly.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
183 Posts
I was wondering that myself, I guess when I perform my first fuel filter change I'll see if it will stick in the nitches. Howvever the down side may be the gripping ring on the bttom cap, might not seat as deep as needed, or damage it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,220 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for posting the video.
I'm a newbie to diesel engines. Question for the OP or anyone else with more experience: Have you considered sliding the filter into place so that the top notches line up, and then screw on the bottom piece? Or would the filter fall off. I'm wondering if the filter would stay in place if you did that.
I'm asking because it's seems odd to design a filter with notches that engage inside and after you start rotating the assembly.
Not sure, it didn't occur to me to try that. The filter clicks into the cap itself so I figured thats the way to install it. I'd be worried that if you install the filter first and then screw on the cap it might not seat all the way on to the cap. But honestly have no idea. If you try it the other way and you can hear it click onto the cap then let us know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
2019 with 12,500 miles, dash warning just came on "Service fuel filter" (NOT water in fuel). Poured through the manual and searched on-line for a clue, to no avail. Appealing to those with more knowledge. Is this the truck telling me to change the filter(s)? Is it mileage based, or is there some other magic that dictates when this "service" warning is displayed? Does 12,500 miles sound correct for fuel filter changes? An earlier poster indicated his dealer wanted $425 to change the 2 filters: could that be correct (sounds exorbitant!)? Lastly, where is the best place to buy replacement filters?
Thanks everyone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
214 Posts
That is what I did, and also I completely removed the drain valve. Most of the fuel came out doing it that way.
Thanks for posting the video.
I'm a newbie to diesel engines. Question for the OP or anyone else with more experience: Have you considered sliding the filter into place so that the top notches line up, and then screw on the bottom piece? Or would the filter fall off. I'm wondering if the filter would stay in place if you did that.
I'm asking because it's seems odd to design a filter with notches that engage inside and after you start rotating the assembly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
2019 with 12,500 miles, dash warning just came on "Service fuel filter" (NOT water in fuel). Poured through the manual and searched on-line for a clue, to no avail. Appealing to those with more knowledge. Is this the truck telling me to change the filter(s)? Is it mileage based, or is there some other magic that dictates when this "service" warning is displayed? Does 12,500 miles sound correct for fuel filter changes? An earlier poster indicated his dealer wanted $425 to change the 2 filters: could that be correct (sounds exorbitant!)? Lastly, where is the best place to buy replacement filters?
Thanks everyone.
Yep, $425 to change it at my stealership.

My fuel filter service light came on roughly around 12,500 give or take a few hundred miles. Purchased my OEM Mopar filters from amazon, free shipping, got it within 2 days and under $100.

I’m not sure if it was posted but here are the PN’s:

Front - 68157291AA
Rear - 68436631AA
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
901 Posts
Nice video. Thanks for taking the time to help everyone. Right there with you on the diesel bath!! Good tip on draining, THEN breaking the seal and draining again!! Thanks for pointing out the O rings internally to be lubed, and to feel for the notches to engage. When I did mine, I had to prime (IGN on/OFF foot NOT on brake) the truck at least 6 times, and it was still hard to start. Will prime more next time. Also, when I reset my Fuel Filter gauge, if the engine if running I only get 99%. If I reset with the IGN on only, I get 100%.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top