Very good info. Definitely interested as I've heard that the 13+ trucks can be a nightmare with the BCM playing ball with any kind of trans swap. Also pictures would be great.
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2015 g56 swap
Alright, so i know there are many threads on a g56 swap in a 4th gen but not many end up anywhere. So I figured I'd start this one to help anyone looking to do the swap as I just finished mine today. All in All, it was no harder than replacing a clutch with the addition of a few small odds and ends. The parts hunt was the biggest speed bump. Truck runs and drives perfect, just need to button up the interior tomorrow. My parts list is as follows. g56 Trans obviously, bellhousing adapter number 3999928, valair 650hp clutch with hydros, g56 shift tower and boot, lower shift boot, outter shift boot, shifter assembly, clutch pedal with bushings, clips, and mounting rod, g56 trans mount, center floor console, manual tune file from my tuner. -i have the electric shift tcase and it mounted right up to the g56. I haven't tried 4 low yet but high works. -in order for the truck to start, I had to run a wire from pin 4 of the connector on the 68rfe to one side of the clutch safety switch and ground the other side. - the factory driveshafts work, but SHOULD have the rear shortened about 1.75" and the front lengthened about 1.75". -68rfe crossmember works perfect, but you will need the trans mount and hardware. -again, swap was pretty easy. I took some pictures along the way, but there's really not a whole lot to see. I have to pull the pics off my sd card and I can load them up. If anyone has any questions at all just ask. I figured I'd post this just because of the lack of threads on completed 4th gen. Trucks. If anyone is interested and needs part numbers I'll post them up as well.
All said and done I have about 5k into the swap and around 16 hours of work. I had enough of the 68rfe and I would have been double that for a built one that at the end of the day I don't fully trust. Selling the truck wasn't an option to me as I have too much invested.
All said and done I have about 5k into the swap and around 16 hours of work. I had enough of the 68rfe and I would have been double that for a built one that at the end of the day I don't fully trust. Selling the truck wasn't an option to me as I have too much invested.
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I honestly thought it was going to be way worse than it was. A lot of it im sure depends on your tuning as well. Aside from running the wire for the neutral safety, it was all nuts and bolts, just like replacing a clutch.Very good info. Definitely interested as I've heard that the 13+ trucks can be a nightmare with the BCM playing ball with any kind of trans swap. Also pictures would be great.
And I'm fighting with my pos computer with the pictures as we speak. For some reason it's decided it doesn't want to read my sd card
Very cool. Might be a good sticky with the part numbers listed?
It seems that the 4Lo issue is a big one - interested to hear how yours works. I regret not buying the G56, too, but I think I would trade in rather than convert.
Honestly, trading in would be the easier route to go. But as far as cost goes, I guess depending on where one might stand as far as what is owed/done to their Truck, the swap was cheap. I bought my truck 2 years ago with 10k miles for 41k which was very cheap especially at that time. If I were just tuned then I would maybe consider a trade vs. Swap. I used mostly factory mopar parts, 1500 on a valair dual disk, and 3k on a g56. Said and done, including fluid for the g56, I'm about 5k invested.It seems that the 4Lo issue is a big one - interested to hear how yours works. I regret not buying the G56, too, but I think I would trade in rather than convert.
5k to swap vs. An easy 10k-12k for a built auto capable of holding over 600 hp. A built 68rfe to hold said power is listed between 8k-10k from the major builders. Now let's add the 2k core that has to come out of pocket although you will receive it back. Now we have to pay shipping on the new trans and core trans both ways. So now you have a new trans in hand but it's not over. NOW you have to pay a certified installer to do it in order for them to honor the warranty. And not to bash any builders out there, but god knows you'll need that warranty. All said and done, I'm willing to bet I'd end up at least double if not closer to triple the cost of a built and installed 68rfe.
My point is, DEPENDING WHAT YOU WANT, people saying a built 68rfe is cheaper than a manual swap are incorrect. But the 2 are apples to oranges. I wanted to shift gears again as my main use is towing. Not racing. It's a fact that the majority would rather have an auto. But for those of us that didn't want to buy a brand new truck with a g56 and couldn't find a decent deal or even find a used g56 truck at All, this is definitely a reasonable solution if you're mechanically inclined.
It's not an invasive swap either as a lot of people seem to think. I only had to cut one hole in my truck and that was for the shifter. The hole for the master cyl is a 2-nut plastic plate that comes right out. On a mechanical ability scale of 1-10, I would say this is a 5-6. If you have the right tools, it's easy as a clutch swap.
No problem at all. I'm putting a list together right now for you.Very cool. Might be a good sticky with the part numbers listed?
Ok so here's the parts list. These are mopar or Chrysler part numbers and I will list the quantity needed as well. These numbers are for my truck which is an slt.
-g56 trans used, reman, donor truck, etc.
-clutch of your choice, steer clear of stock. Mine came with hydros, fork, release bearing.
-bellhousing adapter cummins #3999928
-manual trans file from your tuner or dealer.
-7 qts of fluid for g56 of your choice. (Not getting into the fluid debate.)
"CLUTCH PEDAL ASSEMBLY"
(You do not need a new column. Just pin the clutch pedal in.
- clutch pedal w/pad: 52009944ac x1
-bushing: 52010309ab x4
-pedal pivot shaft: 52010318aa x1
-shaft snap ring: 6023879 x2
-pin for master to pedal: 52010331ac x1
-clip for above pin: 4581512aa x1
"FLOOR CONSOLE"
(Main console is 2 pieces, front and rear.)
-rear piece: 1eb18dx9ab x1
-front piece: 1eb16dx9aa x1
-bin insert (elec. Shift tcase) : 5gt27dx9ab x1
-cup holder matt: 1eb17dx9ab x2
"SHIFTER ASSEMBLY"
(There are 4 boots including the one on top of the shift tower.)
-boot: 5161544aa x1
-boot: 68069869aa x1
-boot: 55398764aa x1
-boot: 55366042ab x1
-shift lever: 68189341aa x1
-nuts for shift lever: 6104716aa x2
-knob: 52104174 x1
-nut for knob: 6502556 x1
-knob insert (top piece labeling shift pattern): 55366060 x1
"TRANSMISSION SUPPORT BRACKET"
(68rfe crossmember is the same.)
-support bracket: 52122334ac x1
I'm pretty sure I have everything listed. If I think of something I missed, ill edit. If anyone else thinks of something I missed, tell me and I'll edit. Chances are if I didn't list it, it's not needed. These trucks were made pretty capable of accepting on trans or the other.
-g56 trans used, reman, donor truck, etc.
-clutch of your choice, steer clear of stock. Mine came with hydros, fork, release bearing.
-bellhousing adapter cummins #3999928
-manual trans file from your tuner or dealer.
-7 qts of fluid for g56 of your choice. (Not getting into the fluid debate.)
"CLUTCH PEDAL ASSEMBLY"
(You do not need a new column. Just pin the clutch pedal in.
- clutch pedal w/pad: 52009944ac x1
-bushing: 52010309ab x4
-pedal pivot shaft: 52010318aa x1
-shaft snap ring: 6023879 x2
-pin for master to pedal: 52010331ac x1
-clip for above pin: 4581512aa x1
"FLOOR CONSOLE"
(Main console is 2 pieces, front and rear.)
-rear piece: 1eb18dx9ab x1
-front piece: 1eb16dx9aa x1
-bin insert (elec. Shift tcase) : 5gt27dx9ab x1
-cup holder matt: 1eb17dx9ab x2
"SHIFTER ASSEMBLY"
(There are 4 boots including the one on top of the shift tower.)
-boot: 5161544aa x1
-boot: 68069869aa x1
-boot: 55398764aa x1
-boot: 55366042ab x1
-shift lever: 68189341aa x1
-nuts for shift lever: 6104716aa x2
-knob: 52104174 x1
-nut for knob: 6502556 x1
-knob insert (top piece labeling shift pattern): 55366060 x1
"TRANSMISSION SUPPORT BRACKET"
(68rfe crossmember is the same.)
-support bracket: 52122334ac x1
I'm pretty sure I have everything listed. If I think of something I missed, ill edit. If anyone else thinks of something I missed, tell me and I'll edit. Chances are if I didn't list it, it's not needed. These trucks were made pretty capable of accepting on trans or the other.
Your cost should include whatever you can recover from selling the 68RFE. Should be worth $2k? Makes the numbers even more appealing....
Very good point. I honestly didn't even consider that yet. But you're right, I've seen them sell for anywhere between 1500-2500.Your cost should include whatever you can recover from selling the 68RFE. Should be worth $2k? Makes the numbers even more appealing....
Hell ya man. Glad you got the project done. Where did you source the g56 from?
Thank you my man! My buddy owns a junkyard up in long island and he had one from a rolled over 2013. That's about all that was salvageable from that truck as far as parts I needed.Hell ya man. Glad you got the project done. Where did you source the g56 from?
Update for you guys. 4 LOW WORKS. Now weather it was something that was addressed in tuning or if it's not an issue on 4th gens at all like the 3rd gens is beyond me. When I was auto it would say "shift to neutral to complete the shift." Now it just says "shift in progress" for about 3 seconds and it goes right in. And I drove it in 4 low as well, it definitely works. But HOLY S*** 4 LOW WITH A DUAL DISK IS SCARY!
Another update for everyone. Now have about 700 miles since my swap. All is working as it should. The clutch seems to be breaking in well. It's become a little less noisy.
My 68rfe (with toasted overdrives) , converter, flex plate, mount, and bell housing adapter are now all sold. Now that's 2500 back in my pocket. Brings my swap from 5k in the hole back to 2500 in the hole. But now as it's time for some tires, it doesn't hurt so bad for another set of 35's
My 68rfe (with toasted overdrives) , converter, flex plate, mount, and bell housing adapter are now all sold. Now that's 2500 back in my pocket. Brings my swap from 5k in the hole back to 2500 in the hole. But now as it's time for some tires, it doesn't hurt so bad for another set of 35's
I am about to do the same, waiting on my file from the guys at HPP currently, just wondering if you have any advice on the wiring for the reverse lights and clutch wiring? as far as colors of the wies in the loom that need to be run or grounded? I am doing mine with a triple disc, should make things really interesting.Another update for everyone. Now have about 700 miles since my swap. All is working as it should. The clutch seems to be breaking in well. It's become a little less noisy.
My 68rfe (with toasted overdrives) , converter, flex plate, mount, and bell housing adapter are now all sold. Now that's 2500 back in my pocket. Brings my swap from 5k in the hole back to 2500 in the hole. But now as it's time for some tires, it doesn't hurt so bad for another set of 35's
Is cruise control working for you after the swap or is that asking for too much?
I honestly never messed with the reverse lights. I just got the harness that's supposed to go from the reverse sensor back. Once work slows down I'll get back into that. Only wire I had to mess with was pin 4 on the 68rfe connector. Yellow wire with blue tracer. It either needs to be grounded or wired to a clutch safety switch like mine is. Otherwise truck will not crankI am about to do the same, waiting on my file from the guys at HPP currently, just wondering if you have any advice on the wiring for the reverse lights and clutch wiring? as far as colors of the wies in the loom that need to be run or grounded? I am doing mine with a triple disc, should make things really interesting.
Cruise works, and high idle works. In order to turn high idle on, parking break has to be engaged. I did no wiring for that, I think that was something that was taken care of with tuning.Is cruise control working for you after the swap or is that asking for too much?
Did your truck have a full length floor console previously? I was interested in doing this swap but the center console swap worries me.
Anyhow, I appreciate the write-up, look forward to swapping my 68rfe when it blows up.
Anyhow, I appreciate the write-up, look forward to swapping my 68rfe when it blows up.
I honestly never messed with the reverse lights. I just got the harness that's supposed to go from the reverse sensor back. Once work slows down I'll get back into that. Only wire I had to mess with was pin 4 on the 68rfe connector. Yellow wire with blue tracer. It either needs to be grounded or wired to a clutch safety switch like mine is. Otherwise truck will not crank
Cruise works, and high idle works. In order to turn high idle on, parking break has to be engaged. I did no wiring for that, I think that was something that was taken care of with tuning.
Will be starting my swap tomorrow afternoon and hopefully have it all wrapped up and driving again by tomorrow night or saturday morning sometime, my truck was the generic 68rfe flip seat, got a complet package deal with the shorter back flip seat, bell housing adapter, valair triple, new hydros, trans, and also scored an aluminum 1 piece out of the deal. from what i have read and researched, using the tunes the HPP sent me (manual tune file), everything i have seen and heard all works just like a 56 equipped truck, high idle, cruise, and all. All i really have to focus on is the reverse light wiring which shouldn't be too bad and then the clutch swithc/starter safety wiring through pin #4 in the 68rfe harness. I plan to swap to a BW 4447 or 4446 whichever is the manual t case later down the road as well just to do away with the electrical crap that seems to sneak up on these trucks as they age. Soon after that i am doing the Spyntec free spin hubs and swapping a non CAD passenger side axle shaft in and will be working on a way to keep the service 4wd lights off other than zip tying the module somewhere. Almost done with my 10-12 intercooler conversion as well, that one is going much smoother than anticipated, using a damaged mishimoto IC made the repairs, and made new upper mounts, other than that the whole swap over was really simple, i will get some pics and more information up for those that may be interested in any of it.Did your truck have a full length floor console previously? I was interested in doing this swap but the center console swap worries me.
Anyhow, I appreciate the write-up, look forward to swapping my 68rfe when it blows up.
I would really like to get a stripped down minimal wiring harness from a friend of mine that way i don't have a mass of unused connectors that could get messed up down the road as well, but there seems to be only a select few out there offering these up as an option, and not a cheap one at that...
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