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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2013+ Power Steering Pump w/ Remote Reservoir - 6 Bolt Dead Center Fix!!!

Edit: Drove the truck, picked some particularly bad 35-45mph roads that just drove me insane trying to keep the truck in my lane after doing the 6 bolt box upgrade. This was the answer. The power steering effort is even less than before, brakes are phenomenal and to top it off, the truck was a breeze to keep in the lane. This is money well spent, even if my bracket looks silly. Also, all those really bad roads and the steep hill I live on and the gravel drive from hell I live on, no foaming to speak of. I know I'm not doing any off road driving really, but that is definitely more than most probably do. That is the first time I've enjoyed driving my truck in a good long while now. Just amazing.

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Pump is installed and bled, haven't driven it yet but wanted to throw the post up so those who were curious can see. Don't laugh at how I mounted the PS reservoir. I have some ideas for that I'll mention later on. For now, it's in, it works, that is all that matters.

Bracket was easy to install, had plenty of additional adjustment on top of how deep the pump is, so that was definitely not an issue. Pulley was in the right spot from the factory, I did nothing concerning that.

Few things to note that were annoying, so someone who does it next can hopefully find a better way. Also, I moved the one hose clamp touching the coolant line, not to worry. It doesn't touch now. Just didn't bother taking another picture.

Pump:

The feed line on the pump is 3/4" and comes out and bends at an angle towards the front of the truck. This would be great if you were mounting the pump on a 4th gen or in place of your windshield fluid reservoir. With every spot I was planning to try and mount the pump, it made it a complete PITA. I think the best thing to do, would be to get a compression fitting and cut the line off the pump shorter, compression fitting to AN, then do the same with the reservoir. One converted to AN then do a swivel 90* to angle it where you want it to go. While I got it to work with a 90, it would have been much easier had it been 2-3" further towards the pump. Thankfully that hard line comes off the pump with one bolt, so super easy to pull it later and do what I mentioned. I will probably look to do that in the spring once I can safely drive my summer fun car.

Line to Hydroboost:

This line really isn't intended for a 3rd gen and you can tell. I believe it's the 2012 line, if you can find one, that connects to our existing hard line. I'd recommend that. Besides the bend in the hose (it does work the way I routed it) it's JUST long enough to work. Once both sides are tightened down, there is enough flex in the hose it won't strain with engine twist, but I wouldn't say it's perfect. I still think I might get adapters to AN and a 90 and try and connect it to the stock hard line. At this point for me, that will be cheaper than getting a 2012 line.

Reservoir mounting:

If someone can find a better way to mount it, please feel free to school me :D. I still think it could be mounted a few other places if you did the swap to AN lines to shorten the hard feed off the pump so it's not pushed so far to the drivers side. That area is super cramped as is and it was really hard to find a spot that worked to mount it. I know I have a different intake horn and so for most this isn't even an option. The other place I thought to mount it was the support bar right under the coolant hose. A few u bolts + a bracket and you could have it sit almost directly over the pump to where a compression fitting to AN + 90 would be a straight shot up. Then the return line becomes the one that is a mess but the run is longer so less chance of collapsing the line.

Bleeding:

This was interesting and not sure why it acted this way. I had to turn the wheel to get fluid to go past the filter screen in the reservoir and into the pump. I tried bumping the starter and no dice. I basically bled most of it just turning the steering wheel and then running the truck and turned the wheel a few times. To note, the reservoir is small, so don't fill it very high when bleeding it. I must have had a hell of a bubble, blew fluid all over the ground :surprise:. I thought for a minute I had a bad pressure hose. I had done that with the 2008-2010 style pump with no issue, but this new reservoir is tiny.

I can't really think of anything else at the moment. The pictures are just a whole bunch of stuff along the way. If you've watched a PS pump install video or installed one before, you can figure this out. Worst is the feed/return lines and where to mount the reservoir.

Here are the parts I got:

Pump : 68193091AB
Line : 5154843AC
Bracket : 4593998AA
Reservoir + cap: 68225510AB

5/8" hose for the return. I got about 2 feet, think I used about a foot and a half.
5/8" 90

3/4" hose for feed. Hose + 90 comes to about 12" or so total.
3/4" 90

I will be driving it later this evening and will report back. For me the only thing that matters is this big 6 bolt box not wondering as much. If it doesn't help solve that, then I am definitely considering it a waste of time and money. Someone has to try it thought :grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Additional pictures
 

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Just incase
 

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Did you get the mopar or borgeson 6 bolt? I put a new borgeson 6 bolt box & upgraded to mopar T steering around 8000km ago. Still running my original 615k km pump no problem. Bolted right up.
So much better than the original 4 bolt box with 605k Km’s & Y steering it replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Did you get the mopar or borgeson 6 bolt? I put a new borgeson 6 bolt box & upgraded to mopar T steering around 8000km ago. Still running my original 615k km pump no problem. Bolted right up.
So much better than the original 4 bolt box with 605k Km’s & Y steering it replaced.
It's the mopar box.

I’ll be doing this ASAP. Just ordered a thuren track bar so that’s first, pump next.


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Definitely tack bar first haha. I had a bad track bar from a particular brand, mess of a warranty and such , gave up and swapped to a Carli and that was a huge improvement in the way the truck acted.
 

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Edit: Drove the truck, picked some particularly bad 35-45mph roads that just drove me insane trying to keep the truck in my lane after doing the 6 bolt box upgrade. This was the answer. The power steering effort is even less than before, brakes are phenomenal and to top it off, the truck was a breeze to keep in the lane. This is money well spent, even if my bracket looks silly. Also, all those really bad roads and the steep hill I live on and the gravel drive from hell I live on, no foaming to speak of. I know I'm not doing any off road driving really, but that is definitely more than most probably do. That is the first time I've enjoyed driving my truck in a good long while now. Just amazing.

--------------------------------------

Pump is installed and bled, haven't driven it yet but wanted to throw the post up so those who were curious can see. Don't laugh at how I mounted the PS reservoir. I have some ideas for that I'll mention later on. For now, it's in, it works, that is all that matters.

Bracket was easy to install, had plenty of additional adjustment on top of how deep the pump is, so that was definitely not an issue. Pulley was in the right spot from the factory, I did nothing concerning that.

Few things to note that were annoying, so someone who does it next can hopefully find a better way. Also, I moved the one hose clamp touching the coolant line, not to worry. It doesn't touch now. Just didn't bother taking another picture.

Pump:

The feed line on the pump is 3/4" and comes out and bends at an angle towards the front of the truck. This would be great if you were mounting the pump on a 4th gen or in place of your windshield fluid reservoir. With every spot I was planning to try and mount the pump, it made it a complete PITA. I think the best thing to do, would be to get a compression fitting and cut the line off the pump shorter, compression fitting to AN, then do the same with the reservoir. One converted to AN then do a swivel 90* to angle it where you want it to go. While I got it to work with a 90, it would have been much easier had it been 2-3" further towards the pump. Thankfully that hard line comes off the pump with one bolt, so super easy to pull it later and do what I mentioned. I will probably look to do that in the spring once I can safely drive my summer fun car.

Line to Hydroboost:

This line really isn't intended for a 3rd gen and you can tell. I believe it's the 2012 line, if you can find one, that connects to our existing hard line. I'd recommend that. Besides the bend in the hose (it does work the way I routed it) it's JUST long enough to work. Once both sides are tightened down, there is enough flex in the hose it won't strain with engine twist, but I wouldn't say it's perfect. I still think I might get adapters to AN and a 90 and try and connect it to the stock hard line. At this point for me, that will be cheaper than getting a 2012 line.

Reservoir mounting:

If someone can find a better way to mount it, please feel free to school me :D. I still think it could be mounted a few other places if you did the swap to AN lines to shorten the hard feed off the pump so it's not pushed so far to the drivers side. That area is super cramped as is and it was really hard to find a spot that worked to mount it. I know I have a different intake horn and so for most this isn't even an option. The other place I thought to mount it was the support bar right under the coolant hose. A few u bolts + a bracket and you could have it sit almost directly over the pump to where a compression fitting to AN + 90 would be a straight shot up. Then the return line becomes the one that is a mess but the run is longer so less chance of collapsing the line.

Bleeding:

This was interesting and not sure why it acted this way. I had to turn the wheel to get fluid to go past the filter screen in the reservoir and into the pump. I tried bumping the starter and no dice. I basically bled most of it just turning the steering wheel and then running the truck and turned the wheel a few times. To note, the reservoir is small, so don't fill it very high when bleeding it. I must have had a hell of a bubble, blew fluid all over the ground :surprise:. I thought for a minute I had a bad pressure hose. I had done that with the 2008-2010 style pump with no issue, but this new reservoir is tiny.

I can't really think of anything else at the moment. The pictures are just a whole bunch of stuff along the way. If you've watched a PS pump install video or installed one before, you can figure this out. Worst is the feed/return lines and where to mount the reservoir.

Here are the parts I got:

Pump : 68193091AB
Line : 5154843AC
Bracket : 4593998AA
Reservoir + cap: 68225510AB

5/8" hose for the return. I got about 2 feet, think I used about a foot and a half.
5/8" 90

3/4" hose for feed. Hose + 90 comes to about 12" or so total.
3/4" 90

I will be driving it later this evening and will report back. For me the only thing that matters is this big 6 bolt box not wondering as much. If it doesn't help solve that, then I am definitely considering it a waste of time and money. Someone has to try it thought :grin2:
The resi location in this pic appears to be above the CP3, how are you getting your fuel filter out? Is it going to block the exit if pulling it out between the battery tray & the intake horn? (my route)

From RockAuto.com...
Pump : 68193091AB Reman Mopar $269.99 (other option is a Cardone but cheaper)
Line : 5154843AC Gates $96.99
Bracket : 4593998AA $6.87
Reservoir + cap: 68225510AB $39.79

Total for ordered parts = $413.64 plus tax & shipping
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have a fass so wasn't even a thought for me. My stock filter housing is for show because I haven't felt like buying the $80 delete lol.

I do have ideas for other mounting options, but probably won't fool with it until spring/summer. Least right now it's functional.
 

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Ive read this twice, very slowly, now.. Help me here.

There were no modifications made to any of the parts that were OEM correct?? Basically bolt and go?

Im just losing my mind trying to figure this all out and its quite the myriad..
 

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Ive read this twice, very slowly, now.. Help me here.

There were no modifications made to any of the parts that were OEM correct?? Basically bolt and go?

Im just losing my mind trying to figure this all out and its quite the myriad..
Only parts not "OEM" so to speak are the feed from the reservoir to the pump and the return line from the T to the reservoir and the mount I made for the reservoir.
 

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Some pictures from my swap.






To get a better angle on the feed to the pump I actually took the feed nipple off and bent it a different direction probably not best but it works and doesn’t leak so far so good. I mounted my reservoir on the fender.


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So with the new bracket there is no need to do any machining on the pump body to get it to fit and lineup correctly?
Did the new pump come with a pulley or are you reusing the old one? Shopping it out and some look like it comes with it others look like it’s separate?
What type of 90’s did you use? Just regular barbed style with a clamp?
 

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So with the new bracket there is no need to do any machining on the pump body to get it to fit and lineup correctly?
Did the new pump come with a pulley or are you reusing the old one? Shopping it out and some look like it comes with it others look like it’s separate?
What type of 90’s did you use? Just regular barbed style with a clamp?


If you use the new bracket the pump is bolt in install and lines up correctly, no machining required. The new pump came with a new pulley when I order from factorymoparparts.
I used push lock hoses and fittings. I didn’t use a oem reservoir though. You might want to look into the 2012 pump with a reservoir attached if you want a completely bolt on afair.


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So if you use a 2012 pump you still need the new bracket?
What about the high pressure line? Is it the same part number as the one listed here or different?
 

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I'm interested too because I have the new Mopar box with OEM pump. It drives ok with mild "drifts" and slightly more effort to turn.
So the 2012+ pumps are a bigger pump and is a direct fit for my 08?

Kudos for drafting a great write-up. I've had my suspicions the PS pump needed to be upgraded to improve my driving quality

Keep us posted. Thanks!
 

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So if you use a 2012 pump you still need the new bracket?
What about the high pressure line? Is it the same part number as the one listed here or different?

I’m not sure if the 2012 pump is the same as the 2018 or not, but I think it’s pretty close. You could probably cross reference the part numbers.

I'm interested too because I have the new Mopar box with OEM pump. It drives ok with mild "drifts" and slightly more effort to turn.
So the 2012+ pumps are a bigger pump and is a direct fit for my 08?

Kudos for drafting a great write-up. I've had my suspicions the PS pump needed to be upgraded to improve my driving quality

Keep us posted. Thanks!

So far mines good. Not sure if it’s a direct fit on the 6.7 block? The brackets only like $12 might get it to just have on hand.




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The only thing I’m noticing now on mine is when I start the truck the ABS light will actually ding and come on for about 1 second and then go back off. Not sure what that’s about. It’s intermittent.


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The only thing I’m noticing now on mine is when I start the truck the ABS light will actually ding and come on for about 1 second and then go back off. Not sure what that’s about. It’s intermittent.


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Wiring issue during the install that got missed? I would move the wiring harness that has the ABS wiring in it and see if your can produce the problem at will.
 
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