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Ok, so the other day I went to crank my truck with remote start. Well it didn't crank. so I unlock the doors hop in and try to start it. Nothing all the dashlights come on MIL light comes on and flashes... I disconnect the battery cables and even cross them to drain any residual voltage. It does not clear and still won't crank. I get my wife to bring my code reader(just an OBDII scanner and torque on my phone) it was a Powertrain pcm fault code. I should have wrote it down but I didn't. I cleared the code and the truck cranked right up. Turned around and drove it about 1000 miles towing the camper this weekend with no problems. Drove it to work yesterday and back home no issue. My wife went to run some errands this morning gets in the truck and outta no where truck won't crank. I grab my phone and check codes and it had a p040d code. I bought the truck used from a dealer and the previous owner had already deleted the egr and DPF. I could not clear the code so I pulled the battery cables again. Went and rechecked the codes and now that code is gone and I hve a P144E Powertrain code that will not clear. Truck will not crank and everything I see is online is pointing to the fact that maybe I don't have a tuner?? It did not have one when I got it but I did not think anything about it. Truck won't crank at all. :banghead: Any ideas.
 

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What's your battery voltage? Are they origional?
 

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Those code shouldn't prevent the truck from starting.
Battery's sound good. Have you done a jump start for chits and googles to see if the starter will function? Have you checked the harness at your powertrain control module?
 
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You got me to thinking. The other day when I was trying to clear codes, the voltages were fine but I decided to hook my company truck up to it anyway. When my wife arrived with the obdII adapter i hooked it up and cleared the codes with the jumper cables still in place. DING DING I just did the same thing. It's running. I bet I have a dead cell in one of the batteries. Interstate blems so no warranty but I'll replace them and we will see. Thank you for helping me to remember that.
 

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These trucks can be quirky. There can be enough voltage to crank them over BUT if the criteria isn't met, it won't even acknowledge to even turn it over slowly. Just not like the old days. I got left out in the cold with the same thing. I waited 10 min and next try I ignored the wait to start light and bypassed the grid htr load. There was enough voltage present and it allowed the starter to enable to do its job. Good thing these Cummins are good in cold weather without help. Hope your problem is a simple bad battery. Load test each one for sure.
 

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voltage means nothing when the batteries only have 100 amps in them and a dead cell or two...get a load tester
 

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voltage means nothing when the batteries only have 100 amps in them and a dead cell or two...get a load tester
Totally agree, that's why I said have both load tested. Since your a Dodge tech, I was wondering what is monitored to allow or dis- allow the starter to trigger after the tip start?
 

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Totally agree, that's why I said have both load tested. Since your a Dodge tech, I was wondering what is monitored to allow or dis- allow the starter to trigger after the tip start?
i'd imagine things like battery voltage w/ the grid heater on(kind of like a load test), outside temp, and a few other things...

but you are right, the newer tipm based and whatever chrysler calls the ones with bcm's tend to just click the starter when say a 05 would've at least let it actually crank over slowly

and i've used the quick all the way to the right thing on the fob to get one with bad batteries to actually crank...i think it kinda fools everything into thinking it's all right
 

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Any idea on why it didn't start or was it a bad cell in the battery; causing it not to communicate with PCM/ECM?
 
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