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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm going to change the filter for the first time and wanted to know the proper procedure. Also do i need the special wrench or am i good with a 1 1/8" with a 1/2" inch drive. I bought the filter from napa on the fly and paid $58. Sound high? Thanks
 

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I used a 28mm, 1 1/8 might be a tiny bit big but should work if you're carefull not to round off the plastic. Pretty easy, don't forget to cycle the ignition without starting a few times.to prime it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Do I need to drain the housing first or just loosen top and replace?
 

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I order from truckhelp.com for oil & fuel filters. 1-800-407-1071. I ordered the LF16035 oil & fuel FS 43255. Oil filter was 13 & change, and fuel was 43 & change. I like this place for the reason that on orders $50.00 or more, they have free shipping. Took a week for my order to arrive. I use fleetguard filters for my truck. I see many order from genosgarage.com, but they do have shipping fees. I did price a fuel filter from my dealer, and he was way high priced, compared to truckhelp.com.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Napa say's wix makes their filters so I tried it. What procedure did you use changing it?
 

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Napa say's wix makes their filters so I tried it. What procedure did you use changing it?
At just a little over 5300 miles, I am still on the factory filter. From what I have read on here, first drain the water fuel seperator, then with drain still open loosen the filter cap, but do not remove just yet. That will allow for more to drain out. Make sure that you lubricate the new O-Ring with new motor oil. From reading other postings, make sure to not overtighten the fiter cap. Torque it to 22.5 ft. lbs. per owners manual. Sounds like you are on the ball changing your filter:thumbsup:. Proper maintenence is the key for avoiding problems, and with any diesel truck, it gets pricey quick.
 
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Ive changed it a few times now. You need a 1 1/8" shallow socket on a 1/2" drive to be able to get it off. The first time its crazy tight. Try not to use air as its plastic so you dont round off the points. Your local cummins shop sells the filters for 48 bucks. The filter also comes with very good and detailed instructions on changeing it
 

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Put an extension on the factory drain hose and drain into a container rather than on the ground. Put some shop towels around the suspension under the filter because you'll still drip from the housing when loosening the cap. Loosen the cap while leaving the filter housing drain open. Pull old filter - if it's the original it might be tight so don't be afraid to tug. I used a new lint free small microfiber towel to mop up any remaining liquid from the housing before putting in the new filter. Close drain, lube new o-ring, replace filter & cap, cycle key 3 times while listening for the pump to prime each time. First startup might take several seconds but should start - then check for any leakage.
 

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Ive changed it a few times now. You need a 1 1/8" shallow socket on a 1/2" drive to be able to get it off. The first time its crazy tight. Try not to use air as its plastic so you dont round off the points. Your local cummins shop sells the filters for 48 bucks. The filter also comes with very good and detailed instructions on changeing it
Yup I agree I buy all my filters directly from cummins, ccv $85.00:thumbsup:
 

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I took a dremel to the little shields around the nut so I can easily get a crescent wrench on it... Much easier to have a crescent thrown behind the seat
U know what really sucks...when I first got my 12( Dec 11), I went to napa to get some spare filters... They were $17... Same price as the old 5.9... Then all of the sudden, the price doubled... Its like they figured since the 7.5 -2010 boys were having to pay for that expensive filter...so should we....
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok thanks. It's factory tight, I'll put the gorilla grip on it later. Thanks for the replies.
 
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I have had my mechanic do my fuel filters in the past. But I thought I would check it out today so I opened the drain valve, I turned it counter clockwise and it turned maybe 1/4 turn and stopped and no fuel came out. Do I need to turn the yellow knob more it seemed to be pretty tight when it stopped didn't want to break it?
 

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I have had my mechanic do my fuel filters in the past. But I thought I would check it out today so I opened the drain valve, I turned it counter clockwise and it turned maybe 1/4 turn and stopped and no fuel came out. Do I need to turn the yellow knob more it seemed to be pretty tight when it stopped didn't want to break it?
1/4 turn is about right but you have to loosen the top to break the vacuum, then it will drain out...
 

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I have had my mechanic do my fuel filters in the past. But I thought I would check it out today so I opened the drain valve, I turned it counter clockwise and it turned maybe 1/4 turn and stopped and no fuel came out. Do I need to turn the yellow knob more it seemed to be pretty tight when it stopped didn't want to break it?
If you are trying to drain the water/fuel seperator, yes, turn the knob 1/4 turn counterclockwise, if only draining, you will need to turn the key to the on position, but DO NOT START. Leave on for approx 20-25 seconds, then turn key off. I drain mine into a clear 2 litre empty soda bottle. When finished draining, turn knob back 1/4 turn clockwise. Hope this helps.

Were you changing out the fuel filter or just drain the water/fuel seperator?
 

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If you remove cap with oring, I don't think you will ever get it back on. I tried this it kept spitting the oring out. Had to install new oring to solve problem which meant buying new filter. Just my two cents.
 

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I changed mine at 15k. Don't know why they say to get at it from the wheel well. I did it from the engine compartment. Very simple.
 
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