[Thatwhite6.7]

had air in my coolant, bubbling in resivore after shut down. I replaced the HG and installed studs
Had no bubbling for the first 3 days after replacement now all of a sudden there’s air getting in again and bubbling when I turn it off. Not nearly as much as before but enough to notice and the top radiator hose gets very firm. Noticed wetness around my water pump so I ordered one and am gonna try that with my fingers crossed! ANY HELP WITH THAT WOULD BE HELPFUL. ALSO, now if I get into the throttle around 30 psi it starts to surge it sounds like. Not sure if that’s cause of the air getting in or what but it wasn’t doing it before the HG replacement and studs. I checked all my hosing clamps and all seems good I still have the butterfly valve in my intake as well not sure if that’s causing any issues any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

had air in my coolant, bubbling in resivore after shut down. I replaced the HG and installed studs
Had no bubbling for the first 3 days after replacement now all of a sudden there’s air getting in again and bubbling when I turn it off. Not nearly as much as before but enough to notice and the top radiator hose gets very firm. Noticed wetness around my water pump so I ordered one and am gonna try that with my fingers crossed! ANY HELP WITH THAT WOULD BE HELPFUL. ALSO, now if I get into the throttle around 30 psi it starts to surge it sounds like. Not sure if that’s cause of the air getting in or what but it wasn’t doing it before the HG replacement and studs. I checked all my hosing clamps and all seems good I still have the butterfly valve in my intake as well not sure if that’s causing any issues any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks

Did you do a hot torque on the head bolts after running it for a bit?

 

[lpennock]

Do you have a scanner that you can monitor your exhaust pressure. It should be around 2x the boost pressure. Any higher than that you could have stuck vains causing excessive back pressure.

 

[N of 60]

had air in my coolant, bubbling in resivore after shut down. I replaced the HG and installed studs
Had no bubbling for the first 3 days after replacement now all of a sudden there’s air getting in again and bubbling when I turn it off. Not nearly as much as before but enough to notice and the top radiator hose gets very firm. Noticed wetness around my water pump so I ordered one and am gonna try that with my fingers crossed! ANY HELP WITH THAT WOULD BE HELPFUL.

You don’t have anything mentioned about your truck, but I’m guessing you’re running tuned.

Two things,
did you have your head checked for straightness before you reinstalled it.
If you used ARP 425 studs, you do not have to do a re-torque so don’t worry about that.

did you remove the cause that created your head gasket failure which is usually your tuning? What changes did you make?
My guess is you’re running a Smarty or an H&S Mini with improper settings.

if so, share what all your settings are and hopefully your De-fuels were all shut off.

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

You don’t have anything mentioned about your truck, but I’m guessing you’re running tuned.

Two things,
did you have your head checked for straightness before you reinstalled it.
If you used ARP 425 studs, you do not have to do a re-torque so don’t worry about that.

Even with stock bolts its worth a hot retorque i have seen them move after.

 

[N of 60]

Even with stock bolts its worth a hot retorque i have seen them move after.

I just followed the instructions that Brian from Glacier Diesel provided from ARP.
It’s specifically notes no re-torque is required.
But the benefit of the doubt, since it was a one for one replacement with the stock head gasket still in place that could be the reason.


100,000 miles later no issues.

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

I just followed the instructions that Brian from Glacier Diesel provided from ARP.
It’s specifically notes no re-torque is required.
But the benefit of the doubt, since it was a one for one replacement with the stock head gasket still in place that could be the reason.


100,000 miles later no issues.

Likely the reason. When you change out the HG its not bad to hot tq especially if the head was not machined

 

[Thatwhite6.7]

Likely the reason. When you change out the HG its not bad to hot tq especially if the head was not machined
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You don’t have anything mentioned about your truck, but I’m guessing you’re running tuned.

Two things,
did you have your head checked for straightness before you reinstalled it.
If you used ARP 425 studs, you do not have to do a re-torque so don’t worry about that.

did you remove the cause that created your head gasket failure which is usually your tuning? What changes did you make?
My guess is you’re running a Smarty or an H&S Mini with improper settings.

if so, share what all your settings are and hopefully your De-fuels were all shut off.

yes I have a H&S mini max I’m not 100% sure on all the tuning I purchased the truck with it already installed. It’s got a 130hp street tune that I tend to leave it on. I have not changed any tuning since HG replacement but when I pulled the head I took it and had the head pressure tested decked and he found a couple valves weren’t seating properly so I just had him pull them all and he redid all the valve seats and valve seals. Also made sure the Block was shiny new and set a straight edge on it there was no warping I seen. As for the defuel levels I’ve always left them alone haven’t changed anything to do with that. And I went with the Xotic head studs Ik people hate on them and I did too at first but I’ve seen and heard alot of good stuff about them so that’s what I used. I installed a new rad cap and thermostat as well. I’m changing the water pump Friday hopefully that solves the air getting into the coolant cause it’s not filling the overflow up just bubbles some when I shut it off. Thinking it’s getting in through the weep hole maybe if the seal has gone bad. But as for it acting like it’s surging I’m still stuck tested it again today just eased into it and it starting acting as if it was surging air like choo choo choo choo and doesn’t really go anywhere around 30psi

 

[N of 60]

Now is the time to know what you have and settings being used.
If your issues are reoccurring or not as they’ve made the HG fail already once.
Do you have custom tuning on your H&S then?
Find these things out.
The best head studs in the world won’t stop incorrect fuel, and timing issues.

 

[Thatwhite6.7]

Now is the time to know what you have and settings being used.
If your issues are reoccurring or not as they’ve made the HG fail already once.
Do you have custom tuning on your H&S then?
Find these things out.
The best head studs in the world won’t stop incorrect fuel, and timing issues.

I plan on getting the unlock code for the trans overdrive within the next couple weeks but here’s the tune on it. Seen the red pin on the plug for the butterfly valve in the intake wasn’t pushed in so I made sure that was all the way in and gave it another shot it feels better on acceleration like boost is coming in faster and smoother but when I got on it she tried to light em up and take off at 34psi but did the surge sound again and I heard belt squeaking so pulled over and checked sure enough coolant was pushed out of the radiator cap some how not sure about how that happened. I just went to autozone and bought this rad cap 3 days ago and it’s the right one for the truck so I have no explanation for that unless air from wherever it’s coming in from built up real fast when I stomped on it and just blew the coolant out the cap almost blowing the cap off I’m not sure.

 

[N of 60]

Throttle Valve needs to be unplugged.
Turn those de-fuels off.
What is your timing set to?
Pick a power level to match and keep it there.
SOTF tuning is not an advantage on these Minis.

 

[N of 60]

You can remove the butterfly from the throttle valve to help rule out your surging problems.
What does your rail pressure do when this is happening?