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Discussion Starter · #141 ·
After taking a little break from the project to do some other things (priorities and life getting in the way and all). I finally got the fan situation sorted out (I think).

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I bought this fan off eBay. No idea what is suppose to be on (other than a Cummins of some sort), but there is picture with all the parts number on it coming up.


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Elongated a couple bolt holes, drilled a couple new bolt holes and enlarged the center bore (by 1.5mm) to get the mechanical fan clutch to bolt up.

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Ended up with this

Tried to install it and NO-GO, fan is to thick and it hit the harmonic damper .

So, I ordered one of these from Genos


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Now the fan clears the damper, but it moved forward.

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Only about 1/2 inch clearance now at the top of the radiator (radiator is leaned back on a 6.4L truck). This is the picture with the fan part number visible in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
Now the cooling package and all the associated heat exchangers ( radiator , ac condenser, power steering cooler, transmission cooler and intercooler) are all back in place for final install.

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While the fan isn't centered in the opening as the gap at 9 o'clock is bigger than the gap a 3 o/clock, I think it'll work just fine.
 

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That fan looks like what they used on the Offroad 24v's that I used to work on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #144 · (Edited)
I couldn't stand for the fan shroud to still have "Power Stroke V8" on the front of it, so I took a belt sander to it and got rid of those letters (left the turbo diesel part because that is still true at least).

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This is what it looked like before (picture courtesy of google image search)
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My Check engine light is always on in my Ford and I always have to laugh when I look at it, hard to check it when it's no longer there.
 
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Discussion Starter · #146 ·
That fan looks like what they used on the Offroad 24v's that I used to work on.
Maybe, I'm a little concerned that the new larger and much more aggressive blade angled fan will overpower the stock 12 valve mechanical fan clutch. Only one way to find out though.
I sure don't want the added complexity of trying to make a computer controlled fan clutch work.
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Maybe, I'm a little concerned that the new larger and much more aggressive blade angled fan will overpower the stock 12 valve mechanical fan clutch. Only one way to find out though.
I sure don't want the added complexity of trying to make a computer controlled fan clutch work.
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Using a 12v your trying to do away with the electronics not add other components that require them in turn to make the 12v having to depend on them to run.
 

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Discussion Starter · #148 ·
I have an extra heat exchanger up front now. It used to be the fuel cooler (the fuel had its own little closed loop cooling system complete with its own electric pump and coolant reservoir on the 6.4L). This cooler had antifreeze (ford gold) in it before. I doubt its rated for much pressure.

Its the little guy bolted to the driver side of the intercooler in the pic below.

Any ideas of something cool I could do with this heat exchanger? Seems like a waste, but the truck already has a power steering and transmission cooler.

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A transmission can never be too cool, especially in hot weather towing or in stop and go traffic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #151 ·
Took an extended lunch break today to go the the driveshaft shop and pickup the newly rebuilt and shortened rear driveshaft.

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
On board fountain drink cooler!
LOL, Guess I'd have to make sure to flush out all the old antifreeze REAL GOOD before putting fountain drinks through it.
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Took an extended lunch break today to go the the driveshaft shop and pickup the newly rebuilt and shortened rear driveshaft.

View attachment 928657
Did they just shorten the mid shaft and rebuild the back shaft
Other than new u-joints and possibly a new dust boot the back shaft shouldn't have needed anything done to it
 

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Discussion Starter · #154 ·
Did they just shorten the mid shaft and rebuild the back shaft
Other than new u-joints and possibly a new dust boot the back shaft shouldn't have needed anything done to it
I had them shorten the front part of the shaft (the section between the transfer case and the carrier bearing), replace all three u-joints with new Spicer joints, replace the carrier bearing and balance the whole unit as an assembly. Maybe "rebuild" is to strong a word, but they did a lot to it.
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I had my mid shaft shortened and balanced but didn't take the rear shaft, since no changes were made it still had it's factory balance.
I was just checking as a member a couple years ago took their's in and the company shortened each shaft half the total distance
They had to make him a new back shaft and shorten the mid shaft the correct amount
 

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Discussion Starter · #156 · (Edited)
Made a downpipe this weekend. I couldn't find a ready made off-the-shelf downpipe for a 12 valve swap using the stock hx 35 into a 6.4L truck.

So some pieces I got from summit racing, the ball flange off the stock downpipe, and a welder got together.

Came out with this.

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I painted it with some grill paint in hopes of maybe preventing some rust (it'll probably just burn off in no time but it made me feel better that I at least tried)

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Wrapped it in some DEI titanium header wrap in hopes of keeping the starter alive longer as the starter and downpipe are now on the same side.

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It seems to fit and snake around everything okay.

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Discussion Starter · #157 ·
Sticking with the exhaust theme of the weekend. I started modifying the rear section of the exhaust to clear the B&W turnover ball gooseneck hitch.

The instructions for the B&W hitch have you install a spacer on the rear most exhaust hanger than moves the exhaust tips way down making them look like they're gonna drag the ground. So I'm modifying the exhaust so it'll bolt back into the stock hanger.

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Discussion Starter · #158 · (Edited)
The stock muffler on the 6.4L trucks is tiny (see pic above). Since all three stock exhaust EGT probes (pre DOC, between the DOC & DPF and post DPF) need to be plugged in for the computer to allow the starter circuit to function, I needed a place to mount those sensors.

So I punched the guts out of the stock DOC & DPF ( obviously not going for emissions compliance with swapping a 97 12 valve into a 2010 f250 anyway) and figured why not try to make that another muffler.

There was 30 inches of available space inside the DOC/ DFP combo housing. So I drilled a bunch of 1/2 inch holes in it (that took awhile). Figured I'll wrap some hardware cloth around it, then some muffler packing cloth, then some more hardware cloth, then fill the remaining space with stainless steel wool.

Anyone out there have any expertise on muffler making/ sound attenuation? Wondering if this little exercise will actually do anything to quite down the exhaust or if all I did was waste a couple hours and dull my step bit.

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Here's the first round of muffler packing I'm planning on using.
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Discussion Starter · #159 · (Edited)
Also added another double valve cover breather since I plugged the breather ports on the tappet cover (valve cover breathers are all it'll have for crankcase vent), and added a new front valve cover with an oil fill hole as the stock oil fill is now really hard to get to (its basically under the fan shroud)

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Discussion Starter · #160 · (Edited)
Went ahead and put together my new muffler (maybe it'll work).

Put hardware cloth around the tube.
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Then wrapped the tube in a couple layers of muffler packing that's held in place by another layer of hardware cloth.
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All back together
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No way to get the remaining volume of what was the DPF stuffed with steel wool like I wanted (without cutting in an access window of some kind at least), so I didn't bother with the steel wool.

I'd really like for this truck to be able to order food from the drive-thru speaker without having to turn the engine off. With the 97 dodge I usually end up turning it off twice every time I go grab a burger, once to order at the speaker, and once again at the window.
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