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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Recently I traded around and acquired a pretty nice 2010 F250 four door 4x4 auto.. The 6.4L PSD most likely has a cracked piston (it runs, but its blowing oil out the exhaust and combustion gases out the oil fill tube).
My initial thought was to just repair the 6.4, but after researching part prices ( a set of injectors is like $3,000 ) I made the executive decision to 12 valve swap it and put a deposit down on a 180 hp p-pump 12 valve (the junk yard is currently pulling it out of a 97 auto truck).

Digging around this site, and the internet in general, I've found a lot of info on swapping a 12 valve into a 6.0L PSD diesel truck, but very little on swapping one into a 6.4L PSD truck.

Does anyone out there have any recommendations or info (like what companies to get conversion parts from, common issues, or any general words of wisdom). I haven't bought any parts yet other that putting a deposit on the 12 valve engine itself. Any information/ help would be appreciated.

Here's the truck, kind of funny that it got towed home with my 12 valve dodge, and now it's gonna get a very similar power plant.

919029
 

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I helped a friend put a 12v into a 2008 F450 and he used the auto trans from the Ford and it was very expensive to make it work
I'd go with a Manual trans or use a 47rh or re trans, my Standalone Controller made the swap real easy into my Blazer.

That is a nice looking truck. I bought my Conversion Parts from DCS for my OBS swap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did it eventually work correctly after the expensive part?

I'd like to keep the ford auto because swapping the transmission would also mean swapping the transfer case (which is controlled electronically by a switch on the dash). So swapping the transfer case would probably require cutting holes in the floor, which would require me to re-think the center console arrangement and then a big can of worms is squirming all over the place.
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Did it eventually work correctly after the expensive part?

I'd like to keep the ford auto because swapping the transmission would also mean swapping the transfer case (which is controlled electronically by a switch on the dash). So swapping the transfer case would probably require cutting holes in the floor, which would require me to re-think the center console arrangement and then a big can of worms is squirming all over the place.
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Yes the last time I talked to him it was finally shifting good, he had a local shop do the trans tuning and he had to get some kind of a timer because when he started the truck sometimes the tach and something else wouldn't work.He had it in probably a half dozen times for retuning to get the shift points correct. He bought everything from DCS also. If it was my truck and you lived where you might need the 4x4 i'd want the reliability of a manual T-case, just like the manual 12v and manual trans. Then in case of a electrical problem you can still drive the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If it was my truck and you lived where you might need the 4x4 i'd want the reliability of a manual T-case, just like the manual 12v and manual trans. Then in case of a electrical problem you can still drive the truck.
Its not like I'm selling the 97 Dodge or anything (its a manual shift, manual transfer case, 12 valve). So I'll still have a truck that is resistant to computer failure.

I have a different purpose in mind for the Ford. Its gonna be the family truck that the kids (once they're old enough) and the wife can drive. That way I don't have to go flower shopping to every home improvement store and nursey every spring when my wife is picking out what plants she wants to kill that year.
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those engine swaps from different factories are good in some ways , but when it gets down to it ; in the end they are just not reliable when traveling far away from home and help when it quits on you.
 

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those engine swaps from different factories are good in some ways , but when it gets down to it ; in the end they are just not reliable when traveling far away from home and help when it quits on you.
For what he said he has in mind it doesn’t sound like it’ll be going far away


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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Well, I do live in Texas and the definition of “ far away” is a little different here.
I’ve lived all over the US ( side effect of spending 20 years in the military ), but a two hour drive is what people around here refer to as being “ just around the corner”.

But I don’t see why it would be anymore unreliable that a stock vehicle. It’ll be reusing the factory computer ( albeit re-tuned ) to run the transmission, it’ll still have the rest of the factory running gear ( driveshaft length may need to be adjusted, but I’ll have that done by a professional driveline shop ). And the 12 valve certainly has a better reputation for reliability compared to the 6.4L Power Stroke.

Oh, and good luck getting anyone (even a dealership) to do anything on a 6.4L PSD except replace the engine with a crate longblock. Those things seems to be kryptonite even to diesel shops.
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those engine swaps from different factories are good in some ways , but when it gets down to it ; in the end they are just not reliable when traveling far away from home and help when it quits on you.
Don't understand why you say that.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Westen Champlin did this exact swap on youtube as a series. I think he used Diesel Conversion Specialists to adapt to the 5r110 and a standalone transmission controller. Here's his summary video of the build

I watched the whole series. It was entertaining, not overly informative as a how-to, but a fun watch. If nothing else it showed me it can be done with the cab on. Thanks

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One of the giant (and expensive and time consuming) myth's is that you need a controller to make the 5R shift correctly behind a 12V. Search around on a "force relearn" for the 5R and get a properly stalled converter. It's still expensive because the adapter is expensive and you have to buy a new torque converter. But, the upside is you don't have to get a tuner and send it out 12 times to a guy and have him rework it. Check out Wild HORSE MFG – Home of the strongest Cummins adapters and see if they have a 5R adapter. They're generally cheaper than the Destroked adapters. I want to say that @Ford12v did one in his. Also, check out swaphelper.com and see what all he has for your conversion as his products are all well engineered and are plug and play. For his products, I'd put up the cash (and have, and they work).

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
and get a properly stalled converter ,,,,,, you have to buy a new torque converter.
One of the things I've been trying to figure out is what a properly stalled converter is for this application. The frequently asked questions on DCS's website says they re-use the factory Ford converter most of the time, but DeStroked offers a replacement converter with a 1600 RPM stall (the factory Ford one is 1800 RPM). Can 200 RPM worth of stall really be noticeable?
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I swapped a 93 1st gen into an 04 f350 . I would go with the ford 5r. I have mine shifting GREAT with just an sct x4' programmer. So all you'll need is the adapter and programmer. I'm going to make a youtube video pretty soon .

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One of the things I've been trying to figure out is what a properly stalled converter is for this application. The frequency asked questions on DCS's website says they re-use the factory Ford converter most of the time, but DeStroked offers a replacement converter with a 1600 RPM stall (the factory Ford one is 1800 RPM). Can 200 RPM worth of stall really be noticeable?
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Is the 1600 a heavyduty triple disc, if so it would be worth it. The 12v's torque starts peaking at around 1600 to 1700 rpm's.
 

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One of the things I've been trying to figure out is what a properly stalled converter is for this application. The frequency asked questions on DCS's website says they re-use the factory Ford converter most of the time, but DeStroked offers a replacement converter with a 1600 RPM stall (the factory Ford one is 1800 RPM). Can 200 RPM worth of stall really be noticeable?
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My understanding is, yes it makes a difference. you might check out ATS's torque converters are. They do have a selection and as far as I know, they have multiple options based on application. Not sure I'd buy one from them necessarily, but probably worth a look to see what they have.
 

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A upgraded TC is worth the money on any trans, I put one on my 47re not to long after I bought the truck and was a good investment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
One of the giant (and expensive and time consuming) myth's is that you need a controller to make the 5R shift correctly behind a 12V. Search around on a "force relearn" for the 5R and get a properly stalled converter. It's still expensive because the adapter is expensive and you have to buy a new torque converter. But, the upside is you don't have to get a tuner and send it out 12 times to a guy and have him rework it. Check out Wild HORSE MFG – Home of the strongest Cummins adapters and see if they have a 5R adapter. They're generally cheaper than the Destroked adapters. I want to say that @Ford12v did one in his. Also, check out swaphelper.com and see what all he has for your conversion as his products are all well engineered and are plug and play. For his products, I'd put up the cash (and have, and they work).

Good luck!

I read completely through @Ford12v conversion thread. Great thread but I sure hope I don't get as proficient at pulling and re-installing a 12 valve into a ford as he did.
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Best of luck with your build. You will have a easier time than I did just due to the fact that you have a complete truck to start with. When I began mine the previous owner had already pulled the engine, damaged some wiring, etc. I look forward to seeing how you go about using the auto. I tend to go manual with these swaps for simplicity and cost. By the way you can keep your original transfer case even with a manual transmission. Even the electronic shifting transfer case.
 

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those engine swaps from different factories are good in some ways , but when it gets down to it ; in the end they are just not reliable when traveling far away from home and help when it quits on you.
The reliability of a swap fully depends on how well the swap is done, done properly with attention to detail, fit and finish will be as reliable as a factory build, and in the case of a 12v over a 6.0 or 6.4 probably better. If the swap is half azzed throwed together with a spaghetti wiring job I wouldn't trust it to get around the corner, let alone take a trip with it.

I guess I took the easy way since my truck was equipped with a ZF6 manual and manual tcase, but that's what I was wanting. My previous truck had electronic issues causing it to destroy 4 automatic transmissions in 50k miles.

04 F-450 with Cummins 12v converted in 2013

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Still have it today

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