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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve ordered a s467.7 turbo kit with 2nd gen manifold for my 2012. Ive tried to find threads and even videos on YouTube that break down the removal and replacement. Seems to be a lengthy project. I’m looking for any advice/tips to speed the process up as I am only in town to work on my truck for about 24 hrs a week. Specialty tools I should consider? Short cuts? Things you would’ve done differently to save time? Any advice helps.
Also, if you have done the swap yourself, about how long did it take? And how satisfied are you with the results? (Stock fuel, .90 a/r)
Thanks and God Bless.
 

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I did this same swap last year with a Stainless Diesel kit. I don't recall exactly how long it took, but it was certainly time consuming. Here are some things I remember.
Getting the oil return line off the bottom of the turbo was a pain. The only way I was able to access the bolts was to use a pry bar and bend the skid plate under the line out of the way. Installing the new line required using a socket over the aluminum block fitting and tapping it in. There was a type of thin metal plates over some of the manifold bolts that made them an absolute nightmare to remove! I ended up having to get a hold of them with vice grips and pull them every which way until they would crack and tear off. The stock turbo and manifold are heavy. It would be beneficial to have a second person to help lift them out. Each kit seems to take a different approach to the coolant line reroute, so measure 15 times and cut once if required. It probably would have been easier to mount the turbo to the manifold prior to installing, or remove the housings from the turbo to access the studs as they are difficult to get to. I'm not sure if all the 2nd gen manifolds have the same design, but I had to have an 8" ball allen socket to reach the two manifold bolts directly under the turbo. Do yourself a favor and get a piece of flex exhaust pipe. I don't think there is a kit out there that the downpipe will line up with the exhaust. Lastly you will need to modify the wiring harness above the exhaust housing to protect it. I cut the hard plastic loom off, wrapped the harness in aluminized heat barrier, pulled it higher up on the firewall, and ultimately ended up putting on a turbo blanket to tame the heat. There was likely more, but that's all that's coming to mind. Good luck.
 

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Mike @ Dude's Diesel Performance
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Is your EGR out of the way already?

I would recommend pulling the existing manifold and turbo out together. An extra pair of hands help since it will have some weight to it. The drain line is just pushed in the block so pop it out before lifting out the turbo/manifold.

I recommend assembling the new one on the bench like mentioned before as well. There really shouldn't be any special tools with just the manifold and turbo swap.

Which kit did you go with?
 

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Hack saw on the old turbo drain line will save a bunch of time. What kit you bought would be helpful.

The s467.7 with .90 will be ok. Lately there have been a number of people toasting the .9AR on 6.7s. I killed one myself a while back. I didn't like it on stock fuel and went s465 1.0 but to each their own.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I got the stainless diesel kit. The turbo mounts above the manifold versus under, so that should make it easier to install the manifold and turbo separate right?
I also saw on a couple threads that it makes it a lot easier to use exhaust manifold studs instead of factory bolts so I’ve got those on the way as well.
And yes the EGR is already pulled.
Also, my intercooler pipes are off to get powder coat and won’t have those back for another week. I shouldn’t have any trouble installing everything else until those come in right? As far as fitting it in.

Thanks for all the feedback so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just to help anyone who plans on doing a second gen swap in the future...
it took me about a day and a half to complete the project. The removal of everything was easy until I got to the last 4 bolts on the exhaust manifold, as mentioned above there is a retaining clip that is a real pain in the to get off of the bolt head I ended up knocking one side of each clip off and then used an impact to back off the bolt with the clip still attached. The oil drain line on the bottom of the turbo wasn’t hard to remove at all, I used the box end of a 8mm wrench, 2 bolts and it comes off easy. A crows foot set may have helped removing the turbo from the manifold but I ended up pulling them out together which was not easy but manageable. An electric ratchet and impact were life savers for removal and install. Good to have a flex head ratchet and joint sockets as well.

The install was fairly easy. Order an exhaust manifold stud kit, made it way easier to install the manifold especially if you are doing it alone. The coolant re route wasn’t too much of a pain. With the stainless diesel kit you will have to cut the factory coolant standpipe and then pop a hose and hose clamp over to make the connection to the re route pipe. (Kit did not come with hose clamps so it may be a good idea to get a small case ahead of time just in case). after mounting the turbo, installing the intercooler pipe put up a good fight and almost felt Like it wasn’t going to fit but after adjusting the compressor cover and the angle of the pipe I finally got it on. Lining up the flanges on the down pipe to turbo is a 2 man job, it’s very difficult to put the v band clamp on while trying to match up the flanges. I did order 18” of flex pipe and a couple clamps, as mentioned earlier in the thread, the down pipe and exhaust did not line up so that was very helpful.

A couple of things exclusive to the stainless diesel kit that you should note:
The transmission dipstick rests against turbo exhaust housing. I do plan on reaching out to them to see if they have a solution for this.
The corner of the battery box where the factory intake pops in has to be cut out to clear the intercooler piping, not a big deal but helpful to know ahead of time.

Overall it wasn’t a terrible process but you will be sore the next day, but very well worth it. The truck runs and sounds amazing, it’s a completely different truck, and to this point I’ve had no issues. I got CTT tunes and SOTF switch and The turbo spools much Quicker than I imagined. no complaints are all on the performance.
Hope this helps anyone who plans to make the swap, thanks and God bless!
 

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The transmission dipstick rests against turbo exhaust housing. I do plan on reaching out to them to see if they have a solution for this.
Turbo blanket will help with that if you are worried
 

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Turbo blanket will help with that if you are worried
Turbo blanket is a must in my mind. It will take a ton of the heat out from under the hood. Also wrap your down pipe from turbo down about 3 ft.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 
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