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hello, so I have a 04.5, 233k miles. 2 months ago my mileage dropped from 23-24 to 16-17 highway. ( hand calculated) original owner......replaced injectors because it was time, no change. Sent turbo(35k miles on it) back to shop for checks,, everything fine. Replaced MAP and FCA,,,, no changes.....fuel filters, air and oil changes done. Ot seems no one can fix when this goes wrong. Some people don't believe trucks can get good fuel mileage. However I have 233k miles and 16 years with a truck that did, no it has stopped. So I feel your pain.
try the hss stiction eliminator in the oil and adjust the valves... mine is really consistent tank to tank under normal commute miles, averaging right at 21.0x mog over the last 30-35k miles. fixed a tune problem and now the last 2 tanks are at 22.4x mpg. it was a revert to a known good tune to get the change which led to an ah ha moment which still needs to he pushed into the tune. once that is done i will bet there will be another jump in mpg.

fwiw, there is a ton of info here that i have posted that can pave the way for anyone looking to improve their mpg. an example would be to use a 2nd air dam under the swaybar mount on stock height 4x4s. if you love to speed & do 75-80 often, its good for about 1 mpg from what i can tell. remember, 19.3 thru idaho & into utah doing 85 for a couple hundred miles on 2 trips, one with air dam got the 19.3 & 2nd trip did mid 18's without it.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
The easiest fix is to ditch the AT and go to MT (y)
Steve;

One of the most punishing things I ever did to myself was driving a manual transmission with a car full of children through a wildlife park in start-stop-start-stop every few car lengths. I wound up with an awful charlie horse in my claves and thighs. I had to stop the car and get out and walk around with the wild animals to get rid of the cramps. Afterward I swore off of manual transmissions. Nowadays I am on a strong statin drug for high cholesterol and those tend to make me have muscle cramps very easily, so I am only able to use a vehicle with automatic transmission. My truck has a cruise control and I use it regularly so that I don't have to leave my legs in a constant position. The ability to move them about periodically helps keep the muscle cramps away. Such is life!

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Another thing I do is after thoroughly warmed up I make a half dozen full throttle runs for a short distance. I drive for fuel economy and the cat can soot up. A retired Mopar Ram tech advised me of this. Trucks would come in with the complaint.
Danderson;

That is basically what I have done. Every now and then I floor the truck throttle to clean out the exhaust system and between that and the injector treatment cycles I put it through a while back it no longer has the extreme black smoke like it did. I conclude that it is good for the truck to occasionally do the acceleration at maximum throttle. When I was a teenager, I used to hear mechanics recommend that with gasoline powered cars. Those were the days of carburetors and many were mal-adjusted or getting clogged up internally and causing various driveability issues. These days with cars having sophisticated fuel injection systems there are fewer problems. Today's vehicles are actually pretty reliable, especially if regular maintenance is done.

Joe
 

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We call that the “Italian tune-up”! Carb starting to gum up? Drive it wide open until it clears itself!


Danderson;

That is basically what I have done. Every now and then I floor the truck throttle to clean out the exhaust system and between that and the injector treatment cycles I put it through a while back it no longer has the extreme black smoke like it did. I conclude that it is good for the truck to occasionally do the acceleration at maximum throttle. When I was a teenager, I used to hear mechanics recommend that with gasoline powered cars. Those were the days of carburetors and many were mal-adjusted or getting clogged up internally and causing various driveability issues. These days with cars having sophisticated fuel injection systems there are fewer problems. Today's vehicles are actually pretty reliable, especially if regular maintenance is done.

Joe
 

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What temperature does your motor run at, below 190d F+, fuel economy drops off, these are a heat combustion engine. Heavy carbon deposits build up.

For the injector cleaners to clean the carbon off the nozzles and combustion chamber/rings/piston grooves got to get the EGTs above 1000d F for extended several hour periods.
Does your pickup have an EGT gauge?
If so, hook onto something high wide and heavy.
Dump your cleaners in the tank
Heat to the hills and try to pull its guts out, pushing the EGTs above 1000d F.

Babied diesels that are never worked hard die early.

A CAT on the job site is not paying its way unless there's sparks blowing out the stack.


Danderson;

That is basically what I have done. Every now and then I floor the truck throttle to clean out the exhaust system and between that and the injector treatment cycles I put it through a while back it no longer has the extreme black smoke like it did. I conclude that it is good for the truck to occasionally do the acceleration at maximum throttle. When I was a teenager, I used to hear mechanics recommend that with gasoline powered cars. Those were the days of carburetors and many were mal-adjusted or getting clogged up internally and causing various driveability issues. These days with cars having sophisticated fuel injection systems there are fewer problems. Today's vehicles are actually pretty reliable, especially if regular maintenance is done.

Joe
 

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What temperature does your motor run at, below 190d F+, fuel economy drops off, these are a heat combustion engine. Heavy carbon deposits build up.

For the injector cleaners to clean the carbon off the nozzles and combustion chamber/rings/piston grooves got to get the EGTs above 1000d F for extended several hour periods.
Does your pickup have an EGT gauge?
If so, hook onto something high wide and heavy.
Dump your cleaners in the tank
Heat to the hills and try to pull its guts out, pushing the EGTs above 1000d F.

Babied diesels that are never worked hard die early.

A CAT on the job site is not paying its way unless there's sparks blowing out the stack.
Thanks for the suggestion. I haul a 2K wet popup around constantly with 35-12.50-17's. Between the Smarty and now EFI I have a tough time getting the egt's even tom 1000*. The best mine has run was after returning from a 2300 mile run to Washington state and back. They love to run.
 

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Steve;

One of the most punishing things I ever did to myself was driving a manual transmission with a car full of children through a wildlife park in start-stop-start-stop every few car lengths. I wound up with an awful charlie horse in my claves and thighs. I had to stop the car and get out and walk around with the wild animals to get rid of the cramps. Afterward I swore off of manual transmissions. Nowadays I am on a strong statin drug for high cholesterol and those tend to make me have muscle cramps very easily, so I am only able to use a vehicle with automatic transmission. My truck has a cruise control and I use it regularly so that I don't have to leave my legs in a constant position. The ability to move them about periodically helps keep the muscle cramps away. Such is life!

Joe
I like my manual but I had to drive it in San Diego stop and go traffic for 6 weeks while our Honda Pilot was being put back together after a hit and run. Dang I got tired of shifting.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
What temperature does your motor run at, below 190d F+, fuel economy drops off, these are a heat combustion engine. Heavy carbon deposits build up.

For the injector cleaners to clean the carbon off the nozzles and combustion chamber/rings/piston grooves got to get the EGTs above 1000d F for extended several hour periods.
Does your pickup have an EGT gauge?
If so, hook onto something high wide and heavy.
Dump your cleaners in the tank
Heat to the hills and try to pull its guts out, pushing the EGTs above 1000d F.

Babied diesels that are never worked hard die early.

A CAT on the job site is not paying its way unless there's sparks blowing out the stack.
I do not have an EGT gauge, just the temperature gauge in the dash. The temperature of the engine rides right in the middle of the gauge after warmed up. I have always avoided strong acceleration until the engine is thoroughly warmed up. Where I live there are no really steep hills, so not much opportunity to do heavy load heating, but there are a few that I could race up multiple times by turning around and giving it a go on those. That's what I will have to do.

I have a nephew who is an expert mechanic and works on these trucks at a Dodge dealership. The only problem is he lives about 475 miles away. I may make a trip out there sometime this summer and let him take a look at the truck. If the treatment recommended here is successful, I can just make the trip purely for pleasure.

Thanks for the suggestion!

Joe
 

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What temperature does your motor run at, below 190d F+, fuel economy drops off, these are a heat combustion engine. Heavy carbon deposits build up.

For the injector cleaners to clean the carbon off the nozzles and combustion chamber/rings/piston grooves got to get the EGTs above 1000d F for extended several hour periods.
Does your pickup have an EGT gauge?
If so, hook onto something high wide and heavy.
Dump your cleaners in the tank
Heat to the hills and try to pull its guts out, pushing the EGTs above 1000d F.

Babied diesels that are never worked hard die early.

A CAT on the job site is not paying its way unless there's sparks blowing out the stack.
100% agreed... if I dont do the mix & stiction eliminator, my motor goes downhill over time. between the 2, keeps the motor happy and pain free...
 

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For what it's worth...I have an 07 3500...when I bought it I could tell there was major neglect. MPG's were are around 21. Used Hot Shot's Secret Diesel Extreme in the tank, Sticktion eliminator in the oil and put 500mi of "spirited" driving on it over the following week until the fuel tank was empty. Changed the oil, fresh fuel filter, Used Hot Shot's EDT in the fuel (ive used this on ALL of my diesels)...now I can get around 26-27 if im easy on the throttle 23-25 average driving...I've used the ATF mix in the fuel and it works..i've just found I get the same results using Hot Shot's Secret products.... and no I'm not sponsored or posting for them. I honestly use it in all of my vehicles. If they ATF mix or something else in the fuel doesnt work..i'd start looking into injector/tube leaks.
 

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Yes, it is a 2WD model and I do drive the speed limit and avoid excessive acceleration. Of course there are times that require fast acceleration, particularly on-ramps to interstate highways etc. Most of my driving ranges from 55-65mph. I live in the country so all trips I make are 25miles one way or more. The truck gets fully warmed up.

One thing that did happen before I discovered it was that a fuel station I used changed to adding bio-diesel to the fuel. I did not realize the change had been made until I had refilled a number of times. I changed to a different fuel station which does not have bio-diesel added.

I guess my truck qualifies as a garage queen, since it only has about 68K miles in spite of its age. I am retired and don't drive as much as I used to.

When I had my '95 model I used to take it to Cummins Southern Plains service in the Dallas area. I always had them do the valve adjustments. I see that for the 2007 5.9L I have the factory only recommends valve adjustment at either 135K miles or 150K miles. I am wondering if I would be better off going there to have the injectors checked instead of the dealer where I bought the truck (Sherman, TX). It is over an hour drive to the Cummins location, but I will gladly do it if they can do a better job of diagnosing the cause of the poor fuel economy.

Joe
You mentioned that you went to bio-diesel briefly. I noticed when I did that with my 2007 a decade ago, the mileage tracker overhead went out of calibration in a big way. I do not know if it was the viscosity, the density, or what, but it did not computer the miles per gallon well. As I recall it was lower mileage indicated, but that was ten years ago or more. This error cleared eventually when I went back to straight diesel. You might want to compute the mileage the manual way once or twice (fill up full, zero trip counter, drive, fill up full again, record gallons) just to see if the overhead mileage recorder is off.

Hugh in AZ 2007 2WD with manual transmission
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I was unable to find the recommended BlueChem Common Rail diesel fuel system clean and protect, but I did find some Power Stroke Injector Cleaner & Performance Improver. I hope this is close enough. I added 12oz to 1/2 tank of fuel so far. I also bought some Hot Shot's FR3 Friction Reducer which I think is similar to the oil Stiction treatment. If these are not close enough to the BlueChem products, please let me know. I may have to search for them on the internet. I was able to find some Evinrude TC-W3 two stroke oil at WalMart and bought some of that.

I am hesitant to use the ATF product in the fuel system as it has the red dye in it. Red dye is a no-no in a farming area as some people have been known to use farm tractor diesel in their diesel trucks. The farm tractor fuel has the red dye added and it leaves traces in the fuel system of any truck where it has been used. If a driver ever gets stopped by the Feds and they detect that red dye in the fuel system it means big fines. Maybe I am paranoid, but I don't want to take the chance of running afoul of the Feds. There must be another oil that is the correct viscosity to do the same job without the red dye in it.

Joe
 

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For what it's worth...I have an 07 3500...when I bought it I could tell there was major neglect. MPG's were are around 21....now I can get around 26-27 if im easy on the throttle 23-25 average driving...
21 mpg with neglect? 23-27 avg on a DRW Mega? Sorry but I'm calling you out. Even the lie-o-meter can tell you're lying. Those are EcoDiesel numbers

No offense intended but SRW 2500's can usually get between 15-20 if they're in tip-top shape, unloaded. I avg 15-17 with 35's on my 2500 and she's well taken care of. Depends on the fuel, time of year, driving habits, etc. To get around 20's, now you're looking into aero mods for the truck, which very few (there are some!) have done. I've seen 20 mpg 1x when I was on a road trip, cruise control, and my tires were bald making them more like 33's.

My buddy, same year truck as me, except he's not leveled, running smaller tires, and drives like a grandpa, gets around 18. It's one of the highest I've consistently seen.
 
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Discussion Starter #34
Correction to my last post: The product name is Power Service, not Power Stroke. It is their Diesel Kleen product which states + Cetane Boost, Injector Cleaner & Performance Improver, restores lost power & fuel economy. A review I read on "carbibles.com" said, "If you own a vehicle that has a common rail direct fuel injection system, this fuel additive from Power Service should easily maintain the high performance of your engine." So it sounds like the Bluechem product. It is hard for me to know for sure because these manufacturers do not list their ingredients (trade secrets).

If this does not produce any improvement I can always order the Bluechem product over the internet. There do not appear to be any Bluechem dealers in my area.

Joe



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No concern with the ATF color in fuel, it is a totally different dye than used in offroad fuel (only 2 specific ones used)
 

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Joe,
I have a 2004.5, getting close to 380,000 miles, original owner. You drive about 5,250 miles per year. The difference of fuel in a year of 20 vs. 23 mpg is only one tank of fuel. If I were you, I would not worry about spending an extra $60 in the course of a year.

I did finally gut my cat this year just to see how plugged up it might be. I was very surprised it wasn’t clogged at all. However, by gutting the cat I actually gained about 1.5 mpg at 70 mph at 18 mpg. If I keep it slow around 60, I can get 19-20 mpg.

If you plan on keeping your truck and don’t want to spend $$$ on injectors, the added fuel filtration at 2 microns is a good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
TacoHat;

You are right about my driving. One thing that has changed some since last year is that my daughter is occasionally using the truck to pull her 24ft. travel trailer. She made one trip to Colorado last year and another to a park in Oklahoma. She may wind up putting more miles on it than I do from now on.

Yesterday I did see the mpg going up on the overhead display after I put the Power Service Diesel Kleen in the tank. The mpg went up about 4/10ths of a galIon after driving about 75 miles. bought some more diesel at my favorite fuel stop. I can get diesel with no bio products in it and they also have gasoline without any alcohol in it! There are not many stations around like that one. We have a 2016 Subaru Outback with their 2.5L Boxer engine and our average on that one is now 32mpg with 37K miles on the car. We had a Hyundai Azera with 3.8L V6 before the Subaru and got 28.3mpg average on that car. We sold the Azera to one of our granddaughters next door. It now has over 120k miles on it. I don't keep up with its mpg any more.

I plan to drive the truck more often and give it a workout as some have described here. I will report back on mpg after some more driving & time.

If I understood the information that was referenced, the ATF and the 2-cycle oil is to add to the fuel and provide better lubrication of the injectors and extend the life of the seals in the injector system. The Stiction product is added to the oil in the crankcase and the truck driven some to warm up the engine before draining the oil and replacing oil & filter. I hope I understood that.

Thanks to everyone!

Joe
 

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Joe,
I have a 2004.5, getting close to 380,000 miles, original owner. You drive about 5,250 miles per year. The difference of fuel in a year of 20 vs. 23 mpg is only one tank of fuel. If I were you, I would not worry about spending an extra $60 in the course of a year.

I did finally gut my cat this year just to see how plugged up it might be. I was very surprised it wasn’t clogged at all. However, by gutting the cat I actually gained about 1.5 mpg at 70 mph at 18 mpg. If I keep it slow around 60, I can get 19-20 mpg.

If you plan on keeping your truck and don’t want to spend $$$ on injectors, the added fuel filtration at 2 microns is a good idea.
My friend and I installed a 4" Magnaflow turboback on his '05. He experienced the opposite and the exhaust smelled like a 7.3 Superduty. Wreaked. He re-installed the factory exhaust, the whole enchilada. It's quiet again and his says the power and economy are fine.
I just had mine weighed and it turns out my popup tips the scales at 2300# wet. That,35-12.50-17's and my early G-56 yields great performance but mediocre fuel economy. I'm returning to 285-75-17's next time around. I have the cat and a Shuttleworth HD non straight through muffler along with my Anarchy EFI tuning .
 

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.

If I understood the information that was referenced, the ATF and the 2-cycle oil is to add to the fuel and provide better lubrication of the injectors and extend the life of the seals in the injector system.
ATF does not provide any lubrication for the system. There are detergents in there. People will sometimes run ATF through the system in hopes to clean injectors out.

2SO is common to run for lubricity purposes though. I've been running it for years and just recently switched to try another product which ends up being a bit cheaper.

Nothing really quantitative though until you pull the injectors that have seen everything. Some people will sleep better at night knowing they're adding something to help with lubricity, others bawk at it. Up to the individual though.
 
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