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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I bought the truck from my previous post and it is in excellent condition overall. I am very happy with the purchase. Something interesting is going on though and online data seems conflicted.

While I was driving on the highway, I thought I was noticing it being a little hesitant with power, still going 65+ easily though, and then the wait-to-start light came on with a few chimes (can't remember the count, maybe 1). Pulled over, checked around and nothing was out of the ordinary. No odd sounds, no start up problems. But the light is now on all the time and before starting with key in ON position, it chimes 5 times every time.

I've read it could be FCA, injectors, something in the fuel system.

At this point I'm ok with replacing FCA and injectors, but don't want to drop money needlessly. wanted to see if anyone knew what this meant. All I seem to find is 10 chimes or other symptoms that mine is not. And cannot get any codes from 3 on-off or decoder...

ugh
 

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Welcome to the forum. There are a lot of people that will help here but they and I will need more information. For instance, how many miles on the truck, is your oil level rising, condition of fuel and air filter.
Also adding a signature helps immensely. Any known history is always important too, for instance known work done on the engine, any modifications, tuner,etc. Have you checked for blowby?
First initial impression would be injectors but could be a few other things as well.
Larry
 

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2007 Ram 3500 5.9, mostly stock
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Seems strange there is no codes, normally this is fca, fuel rail pressure relief, or injectors, u can get a fca and pressure relief for less than $100, i would just suggest changing them and see if it fixes the issue but its hard to believe there wouldn’t be any codes
 

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From what I have read:
The WTS light and chimes are a leak detection DTC, which means that the fuel calculation between the used versus demanded is out of range. That can have a couple of sources, FCA malfunction, PRV has gone bad, LP pressure not keeping up, a leak in the injectors or the cross-over tubes.

You have to go thru the diagnostics to find the issue.

Additional info:
 

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I had the same issues. I bought a cheap FCA off of Amazon. Helped for a short while & ran better. A few weeks later got a genuine Boche FCA, cleaned the Cascade valve in CP3, torqued Connector tubes to 44#\ft & installed a pressure relief valve plug all at the same time. What ever the the cause, it was resolved.
Just reminded myself I should get a new FPRV to replace the plug. I rarely get on the throttle hard enough to max out FRP to 26kpsi but one day I may & damage an injector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Alright, waiting for the PRV to come in but did the following:
  • torqued all the connector tubes except #6 (couldn't get to it) to 41#
  • replaced FCA
  • tried to clean cascade valve on CP3
  • oil change
  • fuel filter change
  • cleaned battery terminals

Started it up and still have WTS light on with 5 chimes. Actually had a CEL come on too and was able to get codes this time:
  • P1222
  • P2509

Cleaned off the anti-corrosion I put on too heavy and CEL went away, but 3 ON/OFF still shows the same 2 codes. I noticed the lights dimming at least 3 times in intervals which I assume is the grid heater, however, it's 70 degrees out. I also found in the carfax "Computer reprogrammed" 01/2021. In some forums there's talk about the ECM etc.

Does it take a while to clear up if the fixes indeed worked, or is it immediate?

Hopefully the PRV replacement will fix this, otherwise I guess it's injectors time, although it's not having any of the typical injector symptoms. Need to pull the valve cover and check for leaks.
 

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2007 Ram 3500 5.9, mostly stock
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Did any of the crossover tubes move when u retorqued them? Did u clear the codes? It does not take time to clear up if u clear the codes and found the proper fix. Iirc the grid heater runs off of intake air temp so if u had it parked in a cool place (garage) it may still cycle. As far as the ecm update it shouldn’t make any difference when u find the problem and correct it. Hopefully your prv will fix it. How recently have you used the cruise control, when my injectors were bad the only symptom was jerking when coasting down a hill with cruise on and a terrible dead truck (i can pull a 7k lb. trailer now and it’s still faster than empty truck with bad injectors)
 

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Also may try a heavy dose of your favourite diesel conditioner.
I have just changed fuel filters on the FASS150.
I mixed up 25% dextrin 3 atf, 25% tw-3 2 stroke oil & 50% diesel.
started truck & let idle 1 minute. Leave over night. Started up yesterday & idled another minute to allow ATF to clean fuel system.
I normally run a mix of atf & tw-3 to keep fuel system lubricated & clean
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Did any of the crossover tubes move when u retorqued them?
All of the crossover tube retaining nuts tightened by about a 1/8th - 1/4 turn, but I'm assuming that's more to do with going up to 41 ft/lb since they were probably at most 37.
Did u clear the codes? It does not take time to clear up if u clear the codes and found the proper fix.
I did not, don't have any scanners to do it.
How recently have you used the cruise control
Right after I bought it, was on the highway with cruise control working fine.

That's about when the WTS showed up. I was going over hills and thought I started hearing/feeling a very slight rattle or roughness during certain RPMs, think around 1800, but would clear up nicely above or below. Within a minute, coasting down slight hill the WTS came on, chimes, and been there ever since.
 

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U need to clear the codes, as long as the codes are still in there it will keep doing the wts thing. Most auto parts stores will scan and clear codes for free if u dont want to purchase a scanner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, have changed out the PRV as well and cleared the codes. Drove out and seemed alright, but then got into it and saw quite a bit of black soot and WTS came back on, 10 chimes. P1222 again. Guess it's time for new injectors... ugh
 

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I feel your pain. Same issue here but mine is only P1223 code. So far I’ve red lashes from dealer, replaced PRV with a block off (didn’t work so I put my PRV back on). I’m gonna re-torque my injector tubes this week. If that doesn’t work I’ll replace the FCA. Probably won’t help and I’ll be ordering BBI remans by early next week.
 

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My truck threw the P1222 code when i was driving it home the day i bought it, i changed the PRV and FCA and it fixed the code but the truck was still terrible slow and did the surging jerking deal when coasting with cruise on so i still had to break out the big money. Just join the crowd !!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Took it to the shop to get a confirmation on this just to make sure. Also broke the tabs on one of the harnesses (the big connection up near driver side battery), zip tied and drove fine to the shop, but then threw a P0606, not sure if that's due to bad connection held with zip ties or if most of this is due to ECM. Fix one thing, break 3 more.

Searched a whole lot on the injectors and consensus seems to be BBI is one of the best. Would 0.5 stage be too much for a stock setup? I might add a little power here and there, but a full new Bosch kit from injectorsdirect is 2600 vs almost 4000 for BBI 0.5 and connector tubes. Just don't know if it's worth it or not.

I really, really appreciate everyone's thoughts and opinions as I'm learning and making decisions!!! Y'all are awesome!
 

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It’s looking like BBI is more reliable than Bosch OEM’s. I’m going BBI if that ends up being my issue.
 

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BBI has had very good success with there reman injectors also, might save u a couple bucks
 

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First, clean the injectors. Nozzles on these build up heavy deposits affecting flow and timing.. Internal return valves get blocked open from gunk dirt
Your favorite brew of triple shock dose of Howes, Diesel Kleen, Hot Shot's, Standyne, Chevron or other commercial diesel injector cleaner along with 2 oz per gal of TC-W3 ouboard 2 stroke lube in tank.. None of that fake kiddy stuff Seafoam. Heavy load on steep grades 1000d EGTs for hour+

New to u used Cummins, hv dealer program back to stock. May hv corrupted firmware or Joe the Dufus tune in it. Hv them run a cylinder balance test n post

Neither Bosch nor BBI will cover injector warranty unless commercial HD 3 micro dirt filter n water separaor installed.. No POS stock filtration. Both require new tubes and correct torque wrench install. Take pictures so u hv proof
Bosch new will serve u well and saves money.
Just make sure that's what they're selling, demand pictures of numbers on injectors. Lots of Fake new Bosch out there
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
well, after breaking and letting the dealership try a few fixes, the consensus is new injector time. ugh, oh well. wanted to update for anyone in the future. highway driving for a while, then coasting throws the WTS light with 10 chimes. key trick shows P1222 and 5 chimes at start up. none of the cheaper fixes worked so hopefully the injectors will be the end of this goose chase.
 
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I’ll just leave this here in case someone needs this in the future while searching threads.
 
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