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Discussion Starter #1
2006 3500 Laramie 5.9L Cummins QC 4x4 48RE Auto 198K
Hey Guys, newbie first time posting. I have found allot of great information on this forum.
My fan clutch failed, which in turn caused my AC compressor fail. I replaced fan clutch and compressor and associated AC system components, then flushed and pulled vacuum. Started charging AC system and AC compressor Clutch would not engage. Found TIPM input to Compressor with zero current. After reading everything I could in this forum, I decided to take the truck to Dodge dealer to see if they could reflash TIPM and finish AC charge. When I came to pick up truck Service Manager told me TIPM AC circuit fried and traces were burnt black. The tech was able to recharge AC manually and said it was tight and no leaks. Service manager said TIPM is on back order and doesn't know when one will be available. He said Dorman is a good aftermarket replacement. I brought the truck home and removed TIPM and found the TIPM circuit board not burnt or blackened? Tech didn't remove this unit. Now I don't know if I should take it to another dealer for a TIPM reflash or just replace it? Is there a schematic available where I could at least verify if the circuit is shorted?
Your input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the feedback.
Yesterday I measured ECM C2/10 input to TIPM Trigger Signal, ECM is to supply a ground to TIPM when the AC Console switch is illuminated and found it at 12.06vdc back probing the Light Blue/Orange conductor. I tried to cycle the AC switch light On/Off with key On, Blower Fan On, and then tried with engine running with same setup. No Change voltage was constant at 12.06vdc. I am going to see if there is local shop that has a DBIII scanner and see it can reflashed. If it is truly Shorted then I will replace TIPM. I bought this truck with 12,000 miles and have never had an issue with the TIPM, until now. I will post the results found.
Again thanks for input.
Dave
 

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Yesterday I measured ECM C2/10 input to TIPM Trigger Signal, ECM is to supply a ground to TIPM when the AC Console switch is illuminated and found it at 12.06vdc back probing the Light Blue/Orange conductor. I tried to cycle the AC switch light On/Off with key On, Blower Fan On, and then tried with engine running with same setup. No Change voltage was constant at 12.06vdc.
If it is truly Shorted then I will replace TIPM.
You verified the trigger signal with C2 connected to TIPM?

And it showed 12.06V with and without AC request from the HVAC control module.

It could either be the TIPM shorted internally at C2-10 or the ECM failed to send the trigger signal.

I would try to use a jumper to jump the LB/OR wire to ground to see if there is 12V output at C9-3 DB/YL wire and clutch engagement.
 

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My fan clutch failed, which in turn caused my AC compressor fail.

AC compressor Clutch would not engage. Found TIPM input to Compressor with zero current.
Usually a comp/clutch failure causes high current draw from TIPM and hence NO power output at C9-3 DB/YL wire when there is triggering grounding signal at C2-10 LB/OR wire.
And this is a common AC issue with the TIPM.
Its rare that the ECM fails to send the triggering signal.:wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks PWong,
After work today I will run a jumper to ground at C2/10. I didn’t expect to see 12v with the engine on or off with the connector installed?
I read about the ghost voltages when connectors are unplugged and disappear when reconnecting by going to ground.
I will post tonight the results.
Thanks again for your input.
Dave
 

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Use a test light instead of a voltmeter so you don’t see ghost voltage.
 

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After work today I will run a jumper to ground at C2/10. I didn’t expect to see 12v with the engine on or off with the connector installed?
I read about the ghost voltages when connectors are unplugged and disappear when reconnecting by going to ground.
Troubleshoot with all connectors connected.:wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I put the test light to C2/10 LB/OR wire by piercing the conductor insulation connector connected and it lit up.
Engine off or running. However with engine running, blower ON and AC light ON, test light not lit (Off).
So jumpering this wire to ground won't damage ECM?
Just want to be sure before doing so.
Dave
 

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I put the test light to C2/10 LB/OR wire by piercing the conductor insulation connector connected and it lit up.
Engine off or running. However with engine running, blower ON and AC light ON, test light not lit (Off).
So jumpering this wire to ground won't damage ECM?
Just want to be sure before doing so.
Dave
How did you hook up the test light, to the battery negative post?
If yes, then the light should be on when there is no ac request.
And the light should be off when there is ac request.

So your ac request signal to TIPM is good.

After you send the ac request signal to TIPM you can verify the TIPM OUTPUT AT C9-3 with the test light.
There is no need to use a jumper since the request signal can be sent from the ECM.:wink2:
 

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If there is no power output from TIPM then it needs to be reset or replace or do a relay bypass modification.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for your input and support. I finally found a local shop that could do a reflash. They found 41 codes and TIPM was reset and AC Compressor came on and was cold!😃
However, two codes came back indicating the original fan clutch failure.

P0480 Cooling Fan 1 Control Circuit/Open
P0483 Cooling Fan Speed

Note on Report states Power to Fan - But not working, Engine Coolant Temperature 194F, Zero Fan Speed.
Tech had leave before I could speak to him. Note stated bring truck back for further diagnostics.
So Next step is to start tracing wiring for an open circuit?
I am open any suggestions.
Thank you all again for your help.

Dave
 

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Hopefully you bought OEM fan clutch ,USA made 55056990AC .
A lot of issues with import aftermarket fan clutches.
FWIW, I believe Hayden is OEM manufacturer but not 100% sure.

Could swap to mechanical and live with P0483 soft code that should not effect AC operation, detailed in newbies guide
https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/22069665-post1.html

Should go thru diagnostics for P0480, wiring/connector has a lot of issues with it.
Can search newbies guide for FSM for your truck, section 9
https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/22069665-post1.html
P0480
Possible causes
FAN CLUTCH
WIRE HARNESS DAMAGED
OPEN FAN CLUTCH (K160) DRIVER CIRCUIT
(K160) DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORTED TO (K690) RETURN CIRCUIT
(K160) DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORTED TO BATTERY NEGATIVE
INTERMITTENT CONDITION
ECM
 

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two codes came back indicating the original fan clutch failure.

P0480 Cooling Fan 1 Control Circuit/Open
P0483 Cooling Fan Speed
P0480 is the fan clutch solenoid.
P0483 is the fan speed sensor.

If the wire harness is intact then the fan clutch is defective.

Yes ECM doesn't like to work with aftermarket fan clutch, like the President and Democrats. >:)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Truck went back to shop this morning for further diagnostics. New Aftermarket Fan Clutch failed.
Like PWONG and RGHAVANA stated on this forum ECM doesn't like to work with an aftermarket fan clutch.


I had no idea I was setting myself up for failure. The new Fan clutch never did work!


I was so focused on the TIPM failure, the fan clutch got by me!

I would like to say thanks to everyone who helped me here on the forum.


Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hey guys, thanks for the great feedback.
I am just now getting back to finishing my truck.
I can’t seem to decide on which is the best option OEM Electric Fan Clutch or Mechanical Ford Mod?
I have read many posts in this forum of problems with new 55056990AC OEM Dodge Fan Clutch.
If the Mechanical Mod is best has the mod been done on 2006 5.9L? Are there any clearances issues using the stock 26” fan blade,
Parts: New Ford Fan Clutch, New Fan Clutch Adapter, New Fan Bearing and OEM Original Stock Fan
I value your input, your help and experience has been excellent.
Also should I install the Bypass Relay Mod to the AC compressor to reduce the Current draw on the TIPM circuit? Trying to cover everything to protect the TIPM.
Thanks,
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks everyone for your help.

I apologize for not getting this issue closed. I have been so busy with my grandkids all summer I forgot to close this issue out.

I replaced the aftermarket new Fan Clutch with a new OEM Fan Clutch from Dodge. Wow! It's really loud when it comes on!

The Tipm was reset by a local shop and all codes are cleared. Everything is working fine now, actually the AC is so much colder now, I actually have to turn it down sometimes. I learned allot about my electrical system on this forum and how the TIPM actually works.

I can't say thank you enough to all the members here for helping resolve this issue.

Dave
 

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Hey Dave I followed the thread and am having a similar issue AC compressor locked up damaged a few other components on the belt drive system but I replaced the compressor reciever drier and flushed the hoses now my ac compressor wont recieve voltage I still need to follow the diagnostic steps I tested for power and the was searching for schematics when I came across this but my main question is did you blend door become inoperable when this happened mine will no longer switch from floor to defrost anyone know if these could related issues
 
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