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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

I have lurked here for a very long time and have done a lot of research, but I need some help.


My turbo just self destructed!

Pulled the intake and see no damage to the grid heater and no signs of significant chunks after pulling the grid heater, there is some very fine particles that appear to be aluminum that made it past the grid heater.


Truck is mostly stock: Mainly a Daily driver and I tow my rock crawler around a lot on a bumper pull flat bed (10k+)
- 2005
- 115k miles
- G56
- Valair Clutch - 13.00" x 1.375" HD Organic Replacement
- DPP Cool Hose
- Stock fueling
- EGT and Boost Gauges


I know I need a new turbo and will likely replace the inter cooler as well. I hope that I do not need to pull the head?


I do not have a very good understanding of Turbo sizing, I have been reading a lot here trying to learn, but now I need to know asap. I don't completely understand the numbers, I am really counting on you all for help?

I can of course replace it with a stock unit, but why do that?



One recommendation I received was for a DAP Screaming eagle https://www.dieselautopower.com/dap-screaming-eagle-sxe-fmw-3rd-gen-fit-62-68-12-t3-gated-he351cw-4-4

I have also seen a few posted here
- HTT Towram 64
- HTT Proram 64
- S362sxe
- 62SXE



I live in Colorado, so it must pass emissions every year -- That may be a reason for a stock replacement?


Any recommendations? Think i will need custom tuning to go along with it? Hp Tuners?





Sorry for the long thread!

I greatly appreciate your help.

Thank you
Jerry
 

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Mike @ Dude's Diesel Performance
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251 Posts
Hello all,

I have lurked here for a very long time and have done a lot of research, but I need some help.


My turbo just self destructed!

Pulled the intake and see no damage to the grid heater and no signs of significant chunks after pulling the grid heater, there is some very fine particles that appear to be aluminum that made it past the grid heater.


Truck is mostly stock: Mainly a Daily driver and I tow my rock crawler around a lot on a bumper pull flat bed (10k+)
- 2005
- 115k miles
- G56
- Valair Clutch - 13.00" x 1.375" HD Organic Replacement
- DPP Cool Hose
- Stock fueling
- EGT and Boost Gauges


I know I need a new turbo and will likely replace the inter cooler as well. I hope that I do not need to pull the head?


I do not have a very good understanding of Turbo sizing, I have been reading a lot here trying to learn, but now I need to know asap. I don't completely understand the numbers, I am really counting on you all for help?

I can of course replace it with a stock unit, but why do that?



One recommendation I received was for a DAP Screaming eagle https://www.dieselautopower.com/dap-screaming-eagle-sxe-fmw-3rd-gen-fit-62-68-12-t3-gated-he351cw-4-4

I have also seen a few posted here
- HTT Towram 64
- HTT Proram 64
- S362sxe
- 62SXE



I live in Colorado, so it must pass emissions every year -- That may be a reason for a stock replacement?


Any recommendations? Think i will need custom tuning to go along with it? Hp Tuners?





Sorry for the long thread!

I greatly appreciate your help.

Thank you
Jerry
Sorry to hear your turbo took a dump! I’d be happy to help with pricing if you’d like (shoot me a PM). If you go larger you will want some kind of programming to add some fuel to help turbo light down low.

If you are wanting to go a bit larger the SXE turbos you mentioned are great IMO. I ran a 63mm on my 5.9 and it was a great setup.

The first size (62) is the size on the cool end of turbo pushing air to feed motor. The second number is the number on the exhaust side (moving air to downpipe) and last is the exhaust housing (the size hole(s) that are fed by the exhaust manifold.

The larger the turbo blades the longer/higher it will take to get spinning in the rpm band. Think of a ceiling fan vs small desk fan.

Are you wanting to stay about stock power?
 

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My turbo blew up this summer with out warning .
My compressor came apart and it blew chucks of aluminum and some metal I’m sure into the intercooler plus back up the air intake.I pulled my driver side intercooler tube and found a small piece of aluminum in the boot. So I’m sure some stuff got into the engine. Didn’t see any thing on the grid heater or in the intake on the side of the head. I cleaned everything real good, probably spent 5 hours making sure the intake tube, intercooler and intercooler boost tubes were clean.

How I cleaned the intercooler I laid it on its face with the inlet and out let pointing up and used Dawn dish detergent and water filled it up until it started to come out the other side. Let it set awhile and then flushed it out. I had some oil in my intercooler when the turbo blew. I backed flushed it several times, some some shiny metal particles flowed out . I also would fill it up then pick the intercooler up and let it drain out the passenger side. That seemed to clean it out pretty good. I got a inspection mirror and looked down into the intercooler as best as I could and it looked fine.

I didn’t pull my head, I debated about it but my truck was running fine even after the turbo blew. But I needed the truck and didn’t really have the time to pull the head so I just sent it . Truck is running fine been probably 10k miles .

My opinion, since I don’t know how bad your blow up was or looked. If the truck is running fine I’d just put a new turbo on it and run it. Also clean then intercooler out real good . If it worries you then replace the intercooler if Money allows. If you have the know how and money and your worried about the engine might be hurt. Pull the head. Also could pull the turbo off and pull the exhaust side apart and look at the turbine . Should be able to see if any was hitting the blades from the exhaust.

Sorry that happened to you it sucks .




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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if you're wanting to get a little bigger turbo, the SXE 62/68/12 would be a great way to go. it will still spool fast and is able to flow more air then the stock turbo. custom tuning will give the most that turbo can offer with your current fueling.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for the responses, I appreciate the advice.

I would like more power and want to upgrade the turbo, my biggest concern is emission testing here in El Paso County Colorado. I know they always ask me if its "chipped" but i cant get any more information as to what they are looking for. I think they are mainly verifying that it has all required equipment and looking for opacity. Any advice on emission testing?


Mine grenaded pretty bad. The impeller and shaft is just floating around in the housing at this point. As soon as it happened the truck started blowing clouds of white smoke, but there is not oil coming from the Turbo?

I will have some time to pull the turbo and intercooler this weekend and report back.



Thank you
Jerry
 

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Bad month for turbos, I am looking too now.
 

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Turbos blow when the bearings go and the blades impact the housing, is my thinking. Another way could be something getting sucked into it.
Does anyone inspect the play in their turbo bearing? I checked mine and it can move up and down on the shaft a little bit, which I dont like. 162,000 miles on original turbo. I anm surprised with the play in the bearing it does not leak oil.
 

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I check my shaft play about every 6 mo. It’s not a big lift to do. I also rebuilt my turbo and that is not too tough of a job either. Def pays to make that a routine check during oil and fuel filter changes.
 

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I check my turbo once or twice a year. A small amount of radial play (side to side) is OK as long as you have plenty of clearance between the blades and the housing. Should be almost no axial play (end play -in and out.)
 
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