Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum banner

2005 Quad Cab Stereo Build - Figured I'd share!

6166 Views 50 Replies 28 Participants Last post by  PUREVIL
Hey guys!

After having my mind changed on selling the truck, I've decided to switch directions with it instead.

The plan originally was to build a competitive sled puller... But honestly, I don't think I care to screw with that anymore.

I was then going to sell it, but was convinced otherwise.

So... It's back to being a play toy for the street.

As such... It's gotta have a wicked A/V system once again.

I've got a few years experience as a novice installer myself, plus I've also enlisted the help of a buddy of mine who has 12 years of experience in super high end show vehicle installations.

We've already started the build. Nothing else to do while waiting on engine parts right!?

The plan for this thread is to document as we go along the entire build process. I'll try to explain things step by step for people who might be looking for ideas.

I'll also try to get my buddy to create an account here to help explain some of the more intricate details.

This should be a pretty kick butt install, so be sure to keep checking it out if mobile A/V is your thing.

Definately open to interesting ideas and input as well!

More info to follow!

-David
  • Like
Reactions: Anklh
1 - 20 of 51 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Here's the new component list... At least for now. We may still make some changes/upgrades. This system will be mostly JL equipment though.

Kenwood Excelon DNX 9140 In-Dash DVD Plus Navigation and Bluetooth

AudioControl DQXS 6 Channel Crossover and EQ -

AudioControl Digital Dash Control for DQXS -

Front Amplifier - JL Audio 300/2 v2 -

Rear Amplifier - JL Audio 300/2 v2 -

Subwoofer Amplifier - JL Audio 1000/1 v2 Monoblock Class D -

Front Component Set - JL Audio Evolution ZR 6.5" Component Set -

Rear Component Set - JL Audio Evolution ZR 5.25" Component Set -

Subwoofers - JL Audio 10W6 v2's -

Wiring - Stinger HPM Series -

Sound Deadener - Cascade Audio Engineering VBLOK Series -

Once again... More to Come.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Alright... Here's all you get for tonight...

One picture! Taken with my crappy iPhone camera. Waiting on my buddy to upload the good pics from his camera.

Step one has been to remove the entire interior from the truck excluding dash... I've always found they make MORE noise when you remove them for deadening than if you had left them alone.

This is what the interior looks like completely stripped out. Notice we are starting the masking process for the spray on sound deadener.

More details on masking, liquid dampener, etc later.

Also more pictures later.

Thanks for looking!

 

· Sinister CTD
Joined
·
377 Posts
Interested to see the turn out as I have a close setup to yours.

Alpine 505 Dual Din with Blackbird Nav
Alpine 6.5 Type X components in fiberglassed panels on doors
Alpine PDX 600.1 Sub amp
Alpine PDX 4.100 High amp
JL Stealth center console with a 13.5 W3

Lots of Stinger road kill mat and closed cell foam in the doors and panels.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Looking forward to the step by step install with pics! Not going that extreme with mine but eventually going with an aftermarket head unit, 2 amps and a sub. Can't seem to find a supplier for sub boxes in this small town, so was going to attempt to fab one for under the back seat. Anyone had luck with this? Doesn't look like a simple task!

I also posted in a seperate thread, but has anyone retained their factory U-Connect (bluetooth) when installing a different head unit? I have an idea of where I'll go with that but curious what others have done.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
421 Posts
nice list, i will be curious to see how you fit the double din. i am sure with you and your friends experience, but a good write up should help someone like me.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Subscribed. I like sweet stereo buildups. Some time back I followed one on DTR, it ways a wicked deal.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
194 Posts
Interested to see the turn out as I have a close setup to yours.

Alpine 505 Dual Din with Blackbird Nav
Alpine 6.5 Type X components in fiberglassed panels on doors
Alpine PDX 600.1 Sub amp
Alpine PDX 4.100 High amp
JL Stealth center console with a 13.5 W3

Lots of Stinger road kill mat and closed cell foam in the doors and panels.
Lets see some pics of your stereo setup!!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
How are you going to fit a double din in an 05?
You have to modify the stock radio bezel. Not really a bad job... Just time consuming.

We actually had a double DIN head unit in the truck from a previous build... But I may try to pick up another bezel and do it again to help document how to modifiy it.

Otherwise I'm taking my already modified one back apart for some more paint work... I can do a post mod write up at that point.

-David
 

· Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Interested to see the turn out as I have a close setup to yours.

Alpine 505 Dual Din with Blackbird Nav
Alpine 6.5 Type X components in fiberglassed panels on doors
Alpine PDX 600.1 Sub amp
Alpine PDX 4.100 High amp
JL Stealth center console with a 13.5 W3

Lots of Stinger road kill mat and closed cell foam in the doors and panels.
Post up some pictures of your install... I'd like to see how yours turned out... Be kinda cool to see some more peoples work and ideas as well.

-David
 

· Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Curious as to where you and the other folks have been/plan to mount(ing) your amplifiers. The fold flat floors seem to take up the best real estate.
In the past couple builds for this truck we've used a combination of the back wall behind the seats and under the front seats.

I also took my fold flat floor out only a few days after purchasing the truck... I've got plenty of flat storage in the bed! LOL... No need for that thing inside the truck.

This time we will be building an amp rack on the back wall of the truck. We've got some interesting ideas we're going to try on this... So stay tuned.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Here's some more pictures...

This is what the truck looked like after the interior was removed and getting ready for masking.









 

· Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Here we are actually in the process of masking...

Masking off all the wiring and bolts/holes is time consuming, but worth the effort.

If you don't mask the wire it ends up covered in the sound deadener (obviously), which makes future work on the wiring a royal pain because you can't tell the wire colors.

Masking the bolts and holes is a good idea so that everything goes back together smoothly instead of basically having to retap all the holes. My buddy was a little anal with this step. He actually cut the tape out in the same circle as the bolt holes, most guys would just put a little peice of tape over the hole and call it good.

At this stage we also vacummed out all the little dust and built up stuff that had accumulated over 100K miles, that way the spray in deadener has a good surface to adhere too.

We used green 2" painters tape and masking paper used for automotive refinishing. This is all available at your local parts house that sells refinishing supplies. On the wiring you could also use aluminum foil, we went with tape so we didn't have to run to Wal-mart!











 
  • Like
Reactions: TEX

· Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Here we've actually shot the liquid spray on deadener...

It's made by Cascade Audio - It's from their VBLOK line of deadener materials. This stuff is wicked... But pricey. 5 gallons is over $300. We used probably 2.5-3 gallons on the interior of the truck.

Some guys will try to use spray in bedliner as deadener... Which works if you're on a budget, but I truly feel that for the best benefit you need to use this stuff.

It works by converting resonance into low-level heat... It's interesting stuff for sure.

This stuff goes on very thick, so one application is usually enough.

It's sprayed on with a gun kind of like an automotive paint gun, obviously with a much bigger tip to support the thickness of this stuff.

We started at the back wall and moved up to the roof, then moved down the side pillars to the floor.... This is the best method so you can get good coverage from inside the truck without painting yourself into a corner when it comes time for the floor.

This stuff goes on a blueish purple, and dries almost flat black. Very easy to see where you've done and where you haven't, it also makes it very easy to tell if it's dry enough to work on yet.

Have wet rags handy incase you get a large amount of overspray on something, this stuff is water soluable, so don't worry about small amounts of overspray just yet, get those later. Just have a rag ready to clean up big messes since they are easier to clean up while the stuff is already wet for application.











 
  • Like
Reactions: TEX

· Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Here's the deadener changing colors as it dries...

I've already wiped up as much overspray as I could find before this.

I've also already pulled some of the masking off the wiring and such just to show the contrast....

Like I said, it's easiest to clean up while it's still wet from application, but don't worry if you miss a few spots. It'll come off later with a little more elbow grease.















 
  • Like
Reactions: TEX
1 - 20 of 51 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top