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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2003 F350 CC 4x4 dually that currently has a worn out 6.0 powerjoke in it along with the 5r110w trans and the electronic 271 tcase. I have just purchased a rebuilt 4wd NV4500, and have a 91 12v on the way. I'm going to use motor mounts, tach kit and alt bracket (so I can use the Ford alternator). I am probably going to find the dodge input shaft for the tcase so I can keep the stock ford 271 for now.

I'm going to source the clutch pedal, master & slave cylinders, gas pedal, cruise control servo & cable from a V10 gasser model. I'm going to source the dodge slave cylinder from a dodge truck. I'll also probably grab the trans tunnel cover and boot from a Ford to swap in to make it easier.

What I'm wondering relates to wiring. For those that have done this swap, can you provide some insight for what you did? When you remove the 6.0, I know that you need to keep some of the engine harness intact for sensors / etc., but what wires were you able to remove? I also assume that the engine bay ECM can be removed as well? What about the transmission wiring? I can handle the motor / trans / mechanical issues, but figured it was worth asking and figuring out the wiring before starting this swap.
 

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the ford shifter hole will be in a different spot than the nv will need, atleast mine is back further, and you can not remove the ecm if you want your gauges etc. to work.

And on my truck i made my own alt. bracket for the ford alt. so my wiring i kept is alt., coolant temp, oil pressure, and cam/crank wiring for when i order the tach kit and when it cools off im just going to wire up the grid heater onto a push button through a ford starter relay and im using a choke cable for fuel shutoff since my solenoid was dead. And ive been to lazy to wire up my reverse lights yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've also seen where folks have put two batteries on the driver's side after the 12v swap; is there a custom battery tray for that, or do people make their own?
 

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you won't have much trans wiring. Just BU lights & neutral safety . I am not sure what you'll have to do to keep the electronic shifting in tact for the Nv273. Other than that you will need to keep the above mentioned wires and also the AC hig pressure switch wiring and the AC clutch connector. I also built a batt tray on the driver side to make room for the twin piping on the pass side.

My harness went from this.........


to this....

Here's some shots of the batt tray

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yep, seems like that has to stay. I'll end up removing items in the PCM to engine harness that I don't need after the new motor / trans are in.

Almost have all the parts for the swap other than the bellhousing, shift fork, dodge input shaft for the tcase, mounts and shift tower / shifter. Also need the gasser gas pedal, cruise control and clutch / brake pedal assembly. Sounds like a lot, but already have the motor, trans, adapter, starter, a/c comp, alt, southbend clutch & flexplate and the valair master / slave combo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
finally got the motor and trans installed, and swapped output shafts in the tcase. Tcase is going in today, and then I have to modify the original ford trans mount so I can use it with the NV4500 (will ream out the holes). Still need to pick up a set of manual-version pedals and get rid of the auto transmission style brake pedal, but otherwise moving forward quite well.
 

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I used a getrag in mine and kept the 273 case like you. I'll get u the wires u need to splice in the tranny harness to let it start and use 4x4 low. The ECM needs to stay for cruise, speedo, tach, and I think all the gauges. Just pull the check eng and low oil press light bulbs cus they'll never go out! Good luck, u will love it
 

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All the wiring listed come from the rectangle plug harness of the trans, not the triangle plug
( getrag to ford harness)
Back-up sw: White to lt blue/pink
Purple to blk/pink

These wires are for start and 4low and are shorted on the ECM side of the harness

Start: Tan/red to dark blue/orange

4 low: red/white to purple/yellow

Also, if your're using an elect fuel pump splice into the existing f/p wiring so you have the factory pump prime and crash sensor pump stop
 
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