[Crawfish Pot]

Table of Contents

1-7 Engine install and head work from burnt valve
8 NV5600 Swap
9 F650 Dash Mod, Painted from white to black
11 Alcoa Wheels
12 Getting the vistronic fan to work with the AC
13 Drivers side battery tray, air filter relocation, sound system and wheel hub covers
14 Train horn K3H install, new F650 panel switches
15 CTS install
16-19 Twins install
20 BD Intercooler and Levi's secondary turbine heat shield
21 Broken motor mounts, Drive pressure gauge and bulletproof mastercylinder clutch rod
22-24 Transmission carnage, coolant filter insall and York on board air install
28 Aluminum Fan Shroud and Fluidamper
29 Remote Oil Filter Mount


I'm throwing a 2005 CTD into my 2003 F-550 6.0 Torqshift. I'm going to throw as many pics at you that I can and if you have any questions just ask.
Truck it's going in.

Backed in ready to be dismantled.

Truck running one last time showing 320k on the dash.

One last look at the 6.0.

And she's out!

Ford harness stripped down to just oil pressure, ECT, Alt, Crank position, A/C clutch and A/C pressure switch.

Part's only half the battle.
ATS torque converter stalled to 1600 rpms for the Cummins.

Hamilton Springs and exhaust Push tubes

My little helper, Destroked adapter plate and flex plate, Autoworld (1-406-727-8915) quad mounts, Tach bracket, Power steering pump bracket and computer relocation plate, Instructions.Mrs. Dawna and Mr. Ken at Autoworld are some of the best people in the industry. There tech is second to none. I must have called a gazillion times with questions and as busy as they are they still took the time to answer my questions either then or by email. I even talked with them on a Saturday. The Mom and Pop store that is not to big to help you out. They don't push things that you don't need and they have the best prices because they make some of the stuff they sell. If you need wiring tech talk to Mrs Dawna she knows her stuff, don't be fooled because she's a woman. I talked to her most of the time. Mr. Ken is a great guy that will be able to answer the questions that Mrs. Dawna can't.

PCS controller.

5" down pipe next to the 4" stock pipe.

Rear freeze out plug block off/coolant bypass plate.

Repaired the heat shield with some A/C ductwork aluminum tape from Home Depot. It came out better than I thought it would. You will hit the fire wall when putting it in so this stuff will repair it if damaged.

 

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Everything cleaned up and painted.

Got the motor suppose to be 55k. The motor came from Staggs in West Monroe La. sourced by Mr. Dan Harvey in Salem, OR. (1-503-409-2006), a real stand up guy that you can trust to get what you need. If he doesn't have a motor for you he has people all over the USA that have good motors. Don't take a big chance on ebay and get stuck with something bad. The oil pan and pickup tube was dented from shipping, but Mr. Dan sent me another one. I was looking for a 2005 but I got this one a 2004.5 same hardware different wiring so I had to pin the harness for a 2005. I brought the injectors over to Mr. Steve at Jefferson Diesel in Harvey, La. to get checked out. If you have never seen a high pressure injector get tested, you should it's a trip. They said they looked really good.

Now the fun begins. Putting everything together.
I decide to change the rear main seal because I was right there.

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I had to mark and cut the freeze plug plate because the adapter plate would sit on top of it.

Next was the power steering bracket. Very good and tight fit. Everything lines up really good.

Here is the Crank position bracket. This works really well to with the dash tach. You have to grind down this little aluminum boss so the bracket sits flat, no big deal at all.

Put the fitting for the Amsoil bypass filter out on.

I took the filter housing off and trimmed it up so it functions like the stock setup would.

Put the ARP studs, Hamilton springs and push tubes in. Now no where did I find that you have to modify the back of the rocker box but it wasn't that big of a deal. I just put the appropriate drill bit in the drill press and put it on high speed and it cut right through it being aluminum.

Valve cover ready to go back on. I got the Dodge off the valve cover cover by using a air palm sander with 180 grit and gave it some paint too.

 

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I made my own Spool-aid while the motor was out. This doesn't look like it is possible to do with the motor in a Ford. I used some 1.5 OD pipe and welded a ring around one end so the boots won't slip off. The front one is 4" long and the back one is 2.25" long. I used locktite to seal them in. I had the back one 4" long but it was barely touching the heat shield on the fire wall. I also took that bracket off the back of the motor by the #6 injector line because it was hitting the heat shield too.

Before

After with alot more room.

I had two choices either clear the block or clear the starter. Being aluminum the starter was easier and I didn't like the idea of grinder on or around the motor.

 

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For the coolant bypass I used a Watts 530c valve that goes down to 50psi. I used some 5/8" hose and drilled and tapped a barbed fitting in the thermostat housing. I also used some of the stock wire loom holders to secure the hose.

I welded a 1/2" NPT fitting in the oil pan for any future mods.

To move the tranny cross member back all you have to do is support the tranny, unbolt it from the frame and move it back to the predrilled holes from the factory. It helps to have two people when doing this. Disconnect the lines first or you will be fighting them. You will have to stretch them as much as the tranny goes back, so my local hose place Melville hooked that up.

I had to elongate the hole for the motor mount on the passenger side frame. so I could drop that side of the motor down and I had to make two 1/4" shims for the drivers side to get the motor where I like it.

Here is a pic of the down pipe on the motor before it went in just to see how it looked.

They are now married!!!

The whole reason I wanted the 2005 motor was to have room for two 320 amp Leece Neville alternators on the drivers side, sol I needed to make an intake horn that was perpendicular to the head. The stock one comes forward a little to much to where I would only be able to put one alternator. So I ordered a 180° 3" mandrel bent tubing and I made a flange to bolt to.

It's hot down here in the BYU so I gutted the intake heater as I have found out that Cummins rates this motor to start with no heater assist down to 10°F. I have been living here all my life and have never seen 10°F down here so it was a no brainer.

 

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Here is the rest of the Spool-aid.

 

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Here is the air intake that I made. I used the stock elbow that came off of the turbo. I measures 4" on the turbo and just a little bit over 5" one the other side. I got a 5" short exhaust elbow that has the slip joint on one end, meaning you can slide a 5" tube inside one end. I used a piece of 1/4" flat bar my neighbor gave me and drilled a hole in one end. Then I bent it a little pass a 90° angle. I then took a piece of 1/2" flat plate and made a sensor bung for the air intake sensor and welded it to the inside of the elbow. The S&B filter I used was Part #KF- 1035 I don't remember what the part# is for the prefilter but if you give them the filter # they can hook you up.

 

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Cruise control buttons. Just sand them down and glue them in place with some plastic epoxy

 

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Both Dodge and Ford oil sensors in a mirage of fittings.

The Ford coolant temp sensor. I had to cut and weld a fitting because they didn't have the right adapter for it so I had to make it.

5/8" Heater hoses.

 

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I cut and modified the stock Dodge fan shroud mounting bracket to hold the fan wires away from the fan.

The transmission dip stick tube was cut and two fittings were brazed on each end to put a very stiff hydro hose in between for what was cut out.

 

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I went to the salvage yard yesterday and got some battery temp sensors off of some 98 Durangos, 96 Sprinter van, Dakotas and a 1500. The part # that Painless wants you to use is 56041053. These have part# 56027332. I wired it in and the batt temp code I was getting went away. I talked to the local dealer and he said that they came in trucks and vans from 96-05. I'm not going to say that it is the right one, but I will say that it doesn't set a code. I have 4 more if anybody needs one. The lady at the salvage yard gave them to me for free along with some ground strap. I was out there for about three hours mainly looking for the ground strap.

 

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I got the Dodge pedal mounted. I used a piece of 3/16" plate and the gas pedal from a gas truck I was going to use for cruise control. I just cut the pedal so it was flat and welded the plate to it.

Here are some pics of the cruise control buttons.

 

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Here are the latest pics. I still need a reservoir and some more tranny tunning before I can pull the trailer. I have a few people working on the tuning so we will see how that pans out.

The Cummins pulls strong and I never feel like I'm pushing the motor. It feels like a big truck just mellow but plenty strong.

The two hardest things of this swap for me was the wiring and tranny tunning. Of coarse having the money to do the swap helps things go smoothly too and that started to run real short towards the end.

I would definitely suggest getting a whole truck of whatever year motor you want to use or make sure you get ever thing that you need off of the donor truck for the swap.

If I had to guess I would say that I have about 15k into the swap. That is not including selling anything like the 6.0 or any other parts that I didn't need. After everything is sold that number should come down to about 8-9k, not a bad investment compared to replacing the truck at around 50-60k equipped.

This truck now has what it was meant to have. To bad it wasn't a factory option.


I just hope that this helps someone else that is considering this swap as many people have helped me I am just trying to pass the info along. It's only fair that I share what was shared with me.

The one thing I would change in this swap is to be able to afford the $1000 Painless wiring harness. That would have taking a big headache out of the equation as I had to rebuild my 2004.5 harness to a 2005.

I still haven't installed my stereo back in the dash and I need some freon because it's getting warm down here. Remember when you could get 134a for $5 a can?

If anybody has any questions please feel free to ask.

 

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I tried to key my little box today and it made the tranny shift funny, so both of the CB amps are coming out and no 2 320 amp Leece Nevilles.:-X09 To much RF. I'll leave the radio but it only does 50 Bird watts. My little box does about 700 Bird watts and the Big Boy does around 5000 Bird. There is just to much risk involved to keep the CB stuff in there. I now have 3 computers to worry about and I don't need to fry any of them with a hobby. Getting the RF out of just one was bad enough. I had over 200 RF chokes on the truck before. This is a work truck after all. I'd rather eat then play.

 

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It's in limp mode now and won't go passed 22 PSI and 18000PSI rail pressure, but it still pulls hard up untill that point. I have a P0069 code that points to the IAT sensor. I'm still tuning the transmission. I'm having problems with the 3-4 shift slipping so I've been real lite footed when it shifts.

 

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Double post

 

[KRob]

How much time do you have invested into this?

 

[gotacummins]

i did a 12V and 5r110 & im still trying to get the tranny right as well, if i would do it over i would have used a manual and my shift on the fly 4wd doesnt work eithier:confused013:

 

[Crawfish Pot]

i did a 12V and 5r110 & im still trying to get the tranny right as well, if i would do it over i would have used a manual and my shift on the fly 4wd doesnt work eithier:confused013:

What rear gear do you have? I have a good file for a 3.73.

 

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How much time do you have invested into this?

I would have to say on the swap itself not including waiting for the engine and parts about 3 weeks.