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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Everyone,

I have been searching the web now for 2weeks and pull all my hair out... Looking for some advice or direction on a issue with a gen 2 Cummins.

my local diesel shops are telling me its the trans. when i no for a fact its not. I bought a 2001 dodge 2500 160k rust free truck mint. I have rebuilt the hole drive train and transmission. I changed the lift pump, adjusted valves tested fuel pressure off of the pump 20lb & 12lb under hard load, boost is all good as well. but I lost all power over the last yr to the point the truck keeps dropping to passing gear ever time I give it 1/2 throttle gas now..

It's got to be fuel related because if I'm going 30 mph and floor it then it will drop into passing gear and go no ware maxing out rpm at 2k, if im going 60mph and kick it down then it will red line it and start slowing down ... grrrr hope someone can point me in the right direction. Im about to order new injectors and injector pump next but really would like to see what you all have to say O one more thing yesterday I got a code for the first time P1690... Im new to cummins...

Thanks in advance for you all time Steve!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well after finding "VP44 Diagnostic for everyone" here on the forums.

Time for a new 15X VP44 Pump, DAP 75HP injectors & new Airdog pump....

? Will the 15X push enough fuel for them injector? or should I look at the 16X
any other changes may want to look at? being im going this far.

2001 2WD Dodge 2500 Cummins w/Edge EZ Performance Chip used for pulling 14k 5th wheel
 

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I'm with the shops on trans related issue. You may need to adjust your "tv" cable? That may be the wrong name for it. But there is a kick down cable that can be adjusted. Just be careful removing and installing the clip. They're old and can be fragile.

If your VP was going bad, I'm nearly certain you would have other issues directly related to the running condition of the engine (or starting the engine). To me, your engine sounds to be running fine.

I would be holding off on power adders. Maybe post your location, and ask around for advice on performance shops used by others on CF in your area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Im very open to having someone help lock down my issue and have no problem paying for it.. I have had it in 3 shops all ready and no owns been able to find the issue...

At this point I can start replacing everything an come out the same as what I have paid already in fees trying to find it. Dealer was the last, 1200 dollars later claims the updated the computer and then told me its time to trade it in... WTF lol

Im in Saint cloud MN 50 miles west of Mpls/St. Paul
 

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I don’t understand giving it half throttle and it kicking down a gear as being low on power. That absolutely sounds like a transmission issue.
Have you adjusted the TV cable?
It doesn’t sound like a bad injector pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I don’t understand giving it half throttle and it kicking down a gear as being low on power. That absolutely sounds like a transmission issue.
Have you adjusted the TV cable?
It doesn’t sound like a bad injector pump.
Ok, I guess I wasn't that clear, half throttle it is kicking down then back out (in and out) and flooring the truck what ever gear your in the rpms will climb up to 2,000 and stop then once I let off the gas it will shift into the next gear floor it again it will climb up to 2000 rpms and hold in tell you let off the gas. at no time will my rpms go past 2k unless im on flat ground and feathering it. and if your doing 55 -70 and floor it then it will drop down a gear and start slowing down and hold around 50 or in tell I let my foot out of it.

I hope I can get some time to put the truck back together tomorrow then do a video showing what im talking about... unless some one got other ideas first.
 

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When this situation occurs what is your boost reading? I would think if it’s fuel related then your boost numbers would be low. I just replaced a customers vp44 for a similar issue but I was able to determine that was the problem by gathering info from the truck.
 

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Not reaching over 2000 rpm any time is not a trani issue. So until you get that fixed all other issues are on hold.

On an 01 I suspect that the 1690 code may be a bad Cam sensor not sending a good crankshaft position signal. It does not have a crankshaft sensor like 99 does.
It may be VP but I would start with the sensor first.
I do not know what a 15 or 16 VP is, maybe consider stock. What injectors and chips you want depends on what power and mileage you want. Get running right before making mods while not running right. Shifting could be cable related , but you can't know that if not running right.
Pull codes with a scan tool, not the key.
Make sure all battery terminals and cables are clean and tight in good condition with no corrosion.
 
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Had a similar issue with no power and limited RPM's somewhat like you describe.

MY problem turned out to be the cam gear had slipped forward off the cam about 1/4". It's a bear to fix because you need to tear the front sheet metal to take the cam out and press the gear back on. Drilled and tapped the nose of the camshaft and installed a retainer just for peace of mind. Once is more than enough.

If you take the cam sensor out and using a camera, you may be able to verify that the reluctor ring is not damaged and whether or not the cam gear has has slipped. A sure way to verify if the cam gear has slipped is to drill a hole near the center of the cam gear that is large enough to insert the camera. A rubber plug and silicone will take care of the hole.
 

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Do you have any gauges? We need to know fuel pressure and boost pressure more importantly than RPMs. What you’re describing sounds like a tps. Try turning the key on, pressing the throttle pedal down slowly and letting it come back up slowly for a tps relearn and see if anything changes. All the shops you have taken it to sound like they know nothing and like hooking up scanners to diagnose rather than driving it and seeing what it’s doing
 

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That is not the proper way to reset the APPS.

Proper way is to:
Disconnect batteries for 30 min to 0vernight and leave with the key ON during that period.
turn key off and reconnect batteries.
Turn key to ON three times leaving it in the ON position the third time.
Then slowly depress the throttle to the floor and slowly release it.
Turn key OFF.

Reset done Start and drive.

Only resets throttle reading between apps and ECM if fowled or for new installation.
Does not repair mechanical APPS issues
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That is not the proper way to reset the APPS.

Proper way is to:
Disconnect batteries for 30 min to 0vernight and leave with the key ON during that period.
turn key off and reconnect batteries.
Turn key to ON three times leaving it in the ON position the third time.
Then slowly depress the throttle to the floor and slowly release it.
Turn key OFF.

Reset done Start and drive.

Only resets throttle reading between apps and ECM if fowled or for new installation.
Does not repair mechanical APPS issues
Bigfish Thank you Install new 950cca batteries and this took care of most of the issues but not there yet.

I now get get over 2k go up to about 3k RPMS now.

I did install glowshift 3 in 1 gauge today and at Idle we got 10-11 pounds and heavy acceleration I drop down between 4-5 pounds of fuel pressure. I just order a new (AirDog R3SBD100 Factory Replacement Raptor 100 GPH Lift Pump) will be here tomorrow.

Boost under heavy acceleration is 20 PSI (would be nice to see 30 psi)

I have attached a link to a video show the TAC under heavy acceleration and redlining. I think its got to be a sensor that my cause now. when its cold this is not a issue and works perfect.

Thank you everyone for your help up to this point. I think we are close to having it fixed now.

 

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I can not tell what shifting it is doing in your video. But it should not be releasing and rev'ing up like that. Engine sounds and looks fine. Looks more to be shifting, torque convertor not transferring power, or OD clutches slipping. Make sure trani fluid is full.
Clear code and see if it comes back. Did you replace Cam sensor? You do have an 01 engine in an 01 truck, correct?

It appears engine is acting correctly and accelerating and running as it should but power is not being transferred to wheels. It is rev'ing faster than speedo is moving as i should.

I think Torque convertor or OD direct clutches.
 

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99 qclb, 325dap, compound. Billet trans, 37 toyo, lockers, winch, 10kw stereo, quadzilla
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the video looks like a lack of TC lockup under heavy throttle. can you run a data display and see what gear and waht tcc sol status is durring these conditons? would be nice to know what the comptuer "thinks" is going on
 

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I agree more testing is needed. I do think that there is more slippage or bypass than just no lockup, I do not see or hear any gear jerking from downshifting and a 1500 rpm jump with no speed change is not a lockup or shifting issue.
 

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Steve,

My friend had a similar issue with his '99 Dodge Ram 2500 cummins turbo diesel. The truck had trouble staying in gear or shifting up a gear around 40 to 60 MPH. At one point it wouldn't even shift out of 1st gear. So I replaced a speed sensor on the transmission. It fixed the new problem but the old one remained. I was going to replace ever sensor on the transmission to see if that would fix it but never got around to it.

I would suggest that something with the transmission is giving you problems with shifting and over revving. I would check all the sensors on your transmission and any sensor involving your vehicle speed and rpm. Also can you over rev your truck while in Park/Nuetral? This might help isolate the issue to just the transmission.

Good Luck,

Diesel Drive'N Daddy
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hello once again folks,

Here is what was done today with no luck other then we don't throw the 1690 code anymore.

1. Today we disconnected the edge box.

2. Installed the Air dog fuel pump. idle 18 psi and under load 14 psi.

3. Tried adjusting the kick down cable, didn't mater if I pulled the cable all the way out or if I put a 1" of slack in it.. crazy.

4. Installed a apps noise Isolator

5. Took the truck in and had a full Trans scan done to see if they could find anything from a different shop and all came back working fine. This throw them for a loop and had no answer other then put a new trans. in at $4500.00 WTF they wont change the torque converter with out a complete rebuild. being I just did this 25k ago.

Tomorrow will change out the speed sensor & Apps TPS Sensor.

after this will try dropping the pan and changing the torque converter Solenoid... lastly buy new torque converter.. then a new Injector pump... maybe the pump first you all tell me....

This is getting costly will need to do a full restore after this ....

unless you all have more ideas

Thanks again everyone..
SteveOOO
 

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99 qclb, 325dap, compound. Billet trans, 37 toyo, lockers, winch, 10kw stereo, quadzilla
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do you have a drop in trans line pressure that is greater than normal pressure ranges while driving at any given speed? did you confirm the TCC lockup wire is getting and holding ground? if hte engine is fueling and not throwing a code i HIGHLY doubt its engine related at even more so that its VP44 related. perhaps the TC is broken but you would almost certianly have more issues than what you have if that were the case.

drop the pan, see what kind of filings you have in there, the solenoid and wiring is cheap so sure go shotgun approach with that stuff but the rest... id want more diagnostics before throwing TC's, VP's and new trans at things.
 

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STOP! Don't change any more non trani parts. LOOK at he d... gauges. There is nothing wrong with the engine. It is not a lack of power it is a lack of transfer of that power. Something is slipping inside the trani or torque convertor. Assuming fluid is full.
A completely rebuilt stock trani at retail trani shop is $3000 inc torque convertor, not 4500.
What is a "Transmission scan" Never heard of such a thing on our trucks. Did they not drive it or look at your video?
Truck should never accelerate 1500 rpm increase without a similar speed increase. If it was shifting it would be grabbing and lurching.
It is acting like a manual with a really bad clutch. It will be the TC, clutches, low fluid or bad fluid pump.
A good experienced trani shop should be able to tell the difference or at least if it is the TC or not. Maybe burned smell of fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
UPDATE: Problem fixed!

wow sometimes this crap will drive one nuts... it was not the transmission, we had a few other issues. I took it to a Cummins Guy in Wisc. thanks to Dave here on the forums, took him 1hr. and done. WTF lol The idiot i got the truck from f-up the throttle cable adjustment so it was pulling the injector pump open past its recommended settings forcing it into a de-fueling. that max throttle adjuster screw people dosent give you more power when removing it, let alone hard on the cable and tps. and the injector pump was replaced with-in the past 6yrs... I found out alot on this thing about how the maintenance was poorly done. Replace the alt. and rerouted the ground cable, something about the nose level was way to high and back feeding and was going to crap on me any day.
 
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