[mark1982]

Alright guys i need some help....bout at my wits end i know yall i heard this a few times but i can't figure it out... i bought this truck back in jan. 2012 drove it for two weeks and then the problem started at first it would have a hard time cranking and all i would do is wiggle the battery terminal and it would fire that went on for five days eventually getting worser and worser where it wouldnt crank at all....then i replaced both batteries and it fired right up it lasted all of a day and a half and went back doing what it did before it will crank but will not start.....:banghead:this is my first diesel and during this no check engine light has came on and i notice a lost of rpm when driving....any info will be a lot of help guys thanks

 

[rwhite1]

If things changed when you changed the batteries - are the cables tight, clean, and not corroded?

 

[mark1982]

Yea replaced the terminal and the wire that goes from the terminal to the fuse box the first time it completely died on me and it fired right off then that evening when I left work it did the same thing again and after cranking on it for 30 minutes it finally busted off but after that when I got it home it never cranked again

 

[JLandry]

Sounds like you might need new battery cables. There could be hidden corrosion in-between the end of the cables (the stranded wire) and the lead terminals that clamp to the battery posts.

John L.

 

[mark1982]

Is there a way to troubleshoot the battery cables to know if they are any good or not...a buddy of mine told me it might be the crank shaft position sensor but i think its more electrical then anything.

 

[JLandry]

Is there a way to troubleshoot the battery cables to know if they are any good or not...

Sure.

See the attached pages from the factory service manual.

John L.

 

[mark1982]

Thanks for the download I will test the cables and get back with y'all to tell how it went.

 

[mark1982]

Alright guys im back....check all wiring on truck and all looks good. Finally got my hands on a tester and ran the test on it and i have two codes on it one is P0336 (Cranksaft Postion Sensor Problem) and the other is P01698 which i think from researching on the internet is there is a problem with the powertrain control module. I Will change CPS first...my question is could that sensor actually be the problem of why my truck would sometimes crank and bust off then out of the blue just crank and not bust off.....second question is if it is my CPS could that cause the code for the P01698...

 

[JLandry]

I Will change CPS first...my question is could that sensor actually be the problem of why my truck would sometimes crank and bust off then out of the blue just crank and not bust off.

You bet.

The engine won't run without a valid crankshaft position signal.

...second question is if it is my CPS could that cause the code for the P01698...

It shouldn't.

The P1698 trouble code means the ECM couldn't communicate with PCM over the CCD (comm network) at the time it was set.

I'd do exactly what you're doing... replace the crankshaft position sensor, clear the trouble codes using a code scanner, drive it awhile, then check to see if any trouble codes came back.

Good luck

John L.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[mark1982]

CCD....what is that?

 

[Blue2003]

these trucks are grounded everywhere....check to see if they are corroded clean and tight...

 

[JLandry]

CCD....what is that?

Chrysler Collision Detection bus. This is the communications network used by the vehicle computer modules and instrument cluster to talk to each other. The word "collision" in this case has nothing to do with an accident. It refers to the communication protocol used on the network (i.e.: it prevents data from colliding and interfering on the network).

John L.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[allprobug]

did you borrow the tester or pick one up and anyone know what a good one is for a part time mech. ( I HOPE)

 

[mark1982]

yea the one the i have a buddy of mine let me use it was a carMD pretty easy to use and handy to have...all u do is plug it in with the car in the start position and wait it will beep and shows the codes...all u have to do is look them up on the internet and once you fix the problem plug it back up to check to see if you have fix the problem...the green light shows your car has no codes...yellow shows that there is a problem and can get worse....the red light shows there is a problem and needs to be fixed immediately. but the carMD is afforable and is simple to use...hope this helps you.

 

[Junkman]

You can rent a code scanner at any of the parts stores.

Regarding the CKP, I replaced the 1st one with a Cummins part. It failed within a few months. The 2nd was a no name chain store part. Use this for WIW.

At least open your starter solenoid when you have the starter out to check the contacts. Take a pic & measure the contacts so ou can buy generic replacements instead of paying $35 for the "heavy duty" set sold at Genos.

You need a volt meter to test battery cables. Even the cheap ones will suffice. Harbor Freight puts them on sale. Buy one for each vehicle you own and keep it in the glove box