Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
1998 Dodge 3500; 12valve; 130k miles; NV5600 six-speed; #0 fuel plate; 5" axle dump; zero rust
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Have every thing for the swap except for the clutch, which I have ordered, and from what i have heard you have to have the drive shafts shorted and lengthened. after I removed the drive shafts I noticed that there was rubber boots that allowed the shafts to slid in and out. Is that for when you hit bumps or when you are towing to let the shafts take the bumps without bottoming out? or can you use this extra so I would not have to pay to get my shafts shortened and lengthened? Would appreciate any advice on this swap.
 

·
...
Joined
·
1,465 Posts
Those are called slip joints they allow the suspension to move without binding. With a transmission swap you still need to be in a safe spot for them to move. Depending in how much different the length of the transmission is you may over extend or fully collapse a driveshaft which will cause serious damage. Unless the difference is only a half inch it is safest to extend and shorten exactly what the difference in position of tcase will be.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Zachunt365

·
Registered
1998 Dodge 3500; 12valve; 130k miles; NV5600 six-speed; #0 fuel plate; 5" axle dump; zero rust
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Just as an update, I have the transfer case out of the truck and am getting ready to drop the trans. Trying to figure out what I have to do on the wiring side of things? The auto has a lot more wiring what will I use and what will I not use?
 

·
...
Joined
·
1,465 Posts
I'm sure there is some threads on this exact swap. Do some searches in the forum
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top